Slant Six Forum :: Engine Build Up, Lemme Know what you think.

I think you'll be much happier with more cam than that. Something in the 270 range with lift numbers around .4xx is entirely managable in my '82 D150 (which I'm assuming is heavier than your a100), so long as you get the static compression up around at least 9:1 or so.

To measure static compression you'll need to do the following:

Measure how far down in the bore the piston is at TDC.
Measure the volume of your heads after milling and porting. This is most accurately done with a buret (expensive) and a glass plate, but it can usually be done "good enough" just buying a graduated cylinder (cheap) and the plate.

The static compression ratio is the ratio between the volume obtained from the above calculations and the volume at BDC. If you're taking the head to a shop anyway, I'd probably just have them do it.

Author:	subwyking12 [ Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:24 pm ]
Post subject:	Engine Build Up, Lemme Know what you think.
Howdy all. Ive been lurking here in the forums for quite some time. Im about to order everything for my engine rebuild. Just wanted to know if i could get any input from you experts. Im trying to stay away from dumping a butt load of money into my head by using oversized valves and so on, but well see how that goes. im not trying to make a drag strip truck, im just trying to build up a mild performer for everyday use and the occasional stop light run. i have a 1965 dodge a100 and its engine is in dire need of rebuilding. heres the parts i plan on putting in it. rebuild kit minus cam lifters and timing set from http://www.rpmmachine.com/engine-rebuil ... sler.shtml isky cam #152115 with 256 duration and .425 lift isky lifters pushrods springs and retainers that go with that cam offy 4 bbl intake edelbrock 500 cfm performer series pertronix flame thrower II coil pertronix ignitor II electronic ignition comp cams timing chain set clifford performance ceramic headers havent decided on mufflers yet topped off with a k&n air cleaner. as far as machine work is concerned, i planned on having the block decked and the head shaved a bit too to boost compression. what would you guys suggest as good amounts for that? i also plan on getting the block bored and honed as well. any input would be greatly appreciated. a good friend of mine is trying to help me put together the parts for the kind of performance im looking for, but hes a big block chevy guy and he thought you guys would know best. thanks russ oh and it has a 3 speed manual behind it.

Author:	Doc [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 8:43 am ]
Post subject:
Over-all this looks like a good street build, that Isky cam will be on the mild side. (256 -.425 valve lift) Do some cylinder head porting. You will have to do some measuring in order to correctly set the static compression ratio. DD

Author:	subwyking12 [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:58 am ]
Post subject:
Doug, Suggest doing some measuring to set the static compression, how would i go about doing this? Russ

Author:	73NorthernDuster [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:15 am ]
Post subject:	Cam
I bought the same cam from summit. If your buying just the cam make sure you degree it mine was way off. If you buy the kit be advised they don't know what part numbers go with what. I got the wrong shims. Springs that were no good, and pushrods for a 170. I would suggest the erson cam listed in the group buy. I will never recommend isky after the poor service I got from them.

Author:	CStryker [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:22 am ]
Post subject:
I think you'll be much happier with more cam than that. Something in the 270 range with lift numbers around .4xx is entirely managable in my '82 D150 (which I'm assuming is heavier than your a100), so long as you get the static compression up around at least 9:1 or so. To measure static compression you'll need to do the following: Measure how far down in the bore the piston is at TDC. Measure the volume of your heads after milling and porting. This is most accurately done with a buret (expensive) and a glass plate, but it can usually be done "good enough" just buying a graduated cylinder (cheap) and the plate. The static compression ratio is the ratio between the volume obtained from the above calculations and the volume at BDC. If you're taking the head to a shop anyway, I'd probably just have them do it.

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Engine Build Up, Lemme Know what you think. https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22074	Page 1 of 3

Author:	subwyking12 [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:33 am ]
Post subject:
with the cam i have listed above, what sort of compression ratio should i aim for? i need to have a target first so i know how much to have taken off the head and deck correct? sorry if these questions seem dumb, i just want to ensure that i do this right the first time. russ

Author:	subwyking12 [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:38 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Cam
Quote: I bought the same cam from summit. If your buying just the cam make sure you degree it mine was way off. If you buy the kit be advised they don't know what part numbers go with what. I got the wrong shims. Springs that were no good, and pushrods for a 170. I would suggest the erson cam listed in the group buy. I will never recommend isky after the poor service I got from them. i was going to buy the cam direct from isky. its a little cheaper, and they had the suggested springs lifters and pushrods to go with it. out of curiosity, do you still have the part numbers for the garbage that they mistakenly sent you? id like to double check that its not the same ones i plan on getting. russ

Author:	subwyking12 [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 11:51 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I think you'll be much happier with more cam than that. Something in the 270 range with lift numbers around .4xx is entirely managable in my '82 D150 (which I'm assuming is heavier than your a100), so long as you get the static compression up around at least 9:1 or so. To measure static compression you'll need to do the following: Measure how far down in the bore the piston is at TDC. Measure the volume of your heads after milling and porting. This is most accurately done with a buret (expensive) and a glass plate, but it can usually be done "good enough" just buying a graduated cylinder (cheap) and the plate. The static compression ratio is the ratio between the volume obtained from the above calculations and the volume at BDC. If you're taking the head to a shop anyway, I'd probably just have them do it. oh and do you have a part number and retailer for that Erson cam of yours Thanks Russ

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 2:28 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: oh and do you have a part number and retailer for that Erson cam of yours Thanks Russ Check out this thread http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21400

Author:	subwyking12 [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 4:53 pm ]
Post subject:
as a matter of fact, i just got off the phone with the guys a Erson. He was a really friendly guy. I have the 270 on order, as well as the lifters springs and retainers. That was a good buy i think. Russ

Author:	terrylittlejohn [ Sat Mar 03, 2007 12:45 pm ]
Post subject:	engine build
the 270 cam with .465 lift sounds good remember slantsix is long stroke engine compare to v8 so more duriation wouldnt hurt. as for compression take it all off the deck of the block all the engines i have built the piston is .187in down the bore , with .100in off the block and stock head chamber at 54cc you will get 9/1 comp but you will have to do the math to be safe.

Author:	subwyking12 [ Sat Mar 03, 2007 1:30 pm ]
Post subject:
would 9:1 compression be enough for what i plan on using? Russ oh and thanks for all the help guys. you have definitely made this process alot easier on me.

Author:	CStryker [ Sat Mar 03, 2007 2:57 pm ]
Post subject:
I would say 9:1 would be ok if you're going with the Erson 270. That being said, you /will/ have to recurve the distributor to get good performance out of it. Otherwise you'll have to run it overly retarded to avoid ping.

Author:	terrylittlejohn [ Sat Mar 03, 2007 3:21 pm ]
Post subject:	engine build
i have run 10.5/1 comp with octane boost and 91pump gas but you cant go over 25degs total time, to do this you must recurve and close the slots in the distributor to limit timing or you will have detonation.

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