Quote:
i think it is something on the back on the gauge cluster, i was reading about it before, but i forget what it was called
Voltage limiter?
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| electrical problems (still) https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22276 |
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| Author: | Andy's GT [ Thu Mar 15, 2007 6:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | electrical problems (still) |
hey guys, me again, you probably dont remember but at the end of the summer i was having some electrical issues with my 67 dart gt, i replaced the ignition switch, i think it is something on the back on the gauge cluster, i was reading about it before, but i forget what it was called and if it was relative to my year, ive got power on the inside of the firewall but i think not much further, any suggestions? man, this nice weather has me missing my dart, hoping to maybe get some progress done over spring break so i can drive it this summer as soon as i get out of school, man i miss everything about it except the difference in mileage between that (supersixed) and my school car (4 banger/5spd) sorry im not as specific as id like to be on the problem |
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| Author: | winkless [ Fri Mar 16, 2007 9:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hi,Ttry the plugs where your wiring harness goes through the fire wall to make sure th contact areclean and not corroded. Sometimes just unplugging and plugging them back in will work, if it does they definitly need some attention. Hope tjis helps |
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| Author: | Andy's GT [ Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
the wires have power, its something past that, thanks though! |
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| Author: | Matt Cramer [ Fri Mar 16, 2007 5:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Are you talking about the instrument panel voltage regulator? That's on the back of the gauge cluster, and if it dies, the gauges may burn our or will simply not work depending on how it failed. This does not affect anything else beyond the gauges. It is possible for a dead ammeter to kill electrical power, however. |
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| Author: | dudley [ Fri Mar 16, 2007 5:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: electrical problems (still) |
Quote: i think it is something on the back on the gauge cluster, i was reading about it before, but i forget what it was called
Voltage limiter?
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| Author: | Andy's GT [ Fri Mar 16, 2007 9:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
is the regulator the same as the limiter? thanks |
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| Author: | mpgmike [ Sat Mar 17, 2007 6:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If it is a gauge problem, then it is probably the 5 volt regulator. Fortunately, 40 years later we now have electronics that are much better than the mechanical voltage limiters (one and the same, just different nomenclature). The modern version is a board mount 3 prong electronic MOSFET-looking critter that is constant output; versus pulsing output of the stock mechanical regulator. Gauges increase in accuracy and lifespan. I think the part you want is a 4105. I know the "05" part of the number equates to 5 VDC. A 12 volt regulator would be a 4112, etc. The Radio Shack versions have the wiring schematic on the back. One prong to voltage in (key-on voltage), one goes to ground, and the third will give you your 5 volts. Mike |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Mar 17, 2007 12:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
5v regulator is 7805 3 lead TO220 case 12v 7812 Radio shack has them. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... 2062599&cp Add a heat sink http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... 2102856&cp |
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| Author: | Andy's GT [ Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
that regulator is on the back of the gauge cluster? thanks guys |
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| Author: | supton [ Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
7805's need 10uF or more on the input to prevent oscillations, and won't have the same terminals as whatever it is replacing. Basically--it's not a drop-in solution. A good one, but not plug-and-play. |
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| Author: | Andy's GT [ Sun Mar 18, 2007 12:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: 7805's need 10uF or more on the input to prevent oscillations
huh?  i dont follow that sorry, i can do the plugs or whatever, i just dont understand how to get the 10uf or what that means really, is there an article somewhere about this? http://www.slantsix.org/articles/instru ... cation.htm found this, is this the same thing? is this fix a swap for the regulator on the firewall or is there two regulators? i think maybe it was the ammeter, that sounds right now that i think about it, its not really the gauges that are the problem, i replaced the ignition switch this summer as well |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Mar 18, 2007 1:48 pm ] |
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http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html |
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| Author: | supton [ Sun Mar 18, 2007 5:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That's a pretty good writeup. While I'd take issue with the usage and placement of the capacitor, if it works, it works. I would recommend using at least a 25V capacitor; automotive electrical is quite dirty (noise spikes). |
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| Author: | Jeffc [ Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
http://imageevent.com/jeffc/techstuff2e ... =4&s=0&z=2 http://imageevent.com/jeffc/techstuff2e ... =4&s=0&z=2 Give this a try, makes a lot less heat and if you put spades on the wire ends it will plug right in. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wouldn't a 7809 or 7810 split the voltage drop better with the 7805 since you're running closer to 14v than 12v? (4 and 5 volts each compared to 3 and 6 volts) And how many amps do the gauges need anyway? |
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