Hi guys,

What is life with no project?

I have a perfectly fine newly done head on my new engine but am gonna pull the head to put in my new Erson cam and lifters. This head now in place is one without spark plug tubes.

I have two more heads already magnafluxed, hot tanked and milled. One is a head with tubes, one is a head with no tubes. WHich to use this time for new valves, guides, porting, springs, etc?

My biggest reason to think about changing a perfectly fine head is I hate not hhaving so few plug choices with the no tube head. Also, I took the tube ead off my old engine, know it is fine, but don't know how hard it is to seal the tubes from oil leaks, since it leaked for 40 years!

What is your opinion...do the tube head, or the no tube head and limit myself to plug choices?

Thanks
rock
'64d100

If spark plug choice is your biggest concern, then you answered your own question. The other 2 considerations I can think of is having a head that looks like it belongs on the vehicle; a tubed head on a '64. Finally, hardened exhaust seats for today's fuel should be weighed into the equation. If you have a later head, it will have the hardened seats. The earlier head may or may not. If you're getting port work done, you can have hardened seats installed in the earlier head.

Mike

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Recognized by US Federal Courts as a Fuel Economy Expert!

What 'limitations' are you referring to????

If you check out NGK's race site you can order the extended electrode plug like Dan always 'plugs' for the BL/peanut plug head you currently have...



???

-D.Idiot

I wouldn't factor this into such a choice, because the factory just induction-hardened the exhaust seat area to a depth of a few thousandths; the hardened metal is usually ground away by even a slapdash valve job. So, one should figure on putting in real hardened seat inserts regardless of whether the head is pre-'72 or post-'72. (1972 was the first year for the induction-hardened exhaust valve seats; 1975 the first year for the no-tubes head).

Factors I would think about: How early is the early style head? 1967 and later heads got the slightly revised combustion chamber for more complete combustion. And, which head is not equipped with air injection provisions? The internal passages for air injection add weight to the head. Most all of the no-tube heads had air injection provisions; only some of the tube-style heads did starting in '72.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

One more thing to consider: the head w/ tubes has provisions for changing lifters without pulling the head.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

The head on my Duster is a 69. It hasn't had hardened seats added. I have driven it 37K since I had the valves done and the mods. No problems. I think the iron in these heads is mighty good.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's

93 D350 Cummins THD Maxfuel 35mpg parts to hit 400hp+ Suncoast Cat2 A518, converter DDP Stage III injectors 62/64 HX35, 3 piece manifold, 4" Diamond Eye, Gear Venders OD. Stage I street/tow PDD head on order.

Thanks guys,

Considering your inputs, for me the winner is the 1964 year tube head because:

Ability to change lifters with head still on
No air injection stuff
Ability to play with several plug choices

After long and faithful reading of comments on this forum I was very surprised to see a recommendation in favor of hardening the valve seats...it has long seemed to me to be forum wisdom that this was NOT essential for a daily driver...and I have a thread printed out that explains why not pretty clearly. Now if I could only find it...

and surprised to see DI's source for the long electrode NGK in the no tube head. I had gained the impression that few good plugs fit in that head, so thanks, DI!

If I can ever figger how to get a photo posted without a web server (cause I don't have one) I will post a picture of a beautiful engine and engine bay, a 79 head on a 72 block in a 64 truck shining away. Lemme find that thread....

Thanks to all!
rock

Try posting on www.mobmms.com It is free and easy for the odd photo.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I don't think it's so much that it's not necessary; it's just not critical enough to do a tear down solely for that purpose. If the head's off anyway it should be done, especially if the motor is going to be subjected to exuberant driving.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Funny, I have at least 6 different ranges of small style plugs in my tool box. I was not aware that I was limited in my choices.

I run the late style heads just so I can stay away from those leaky-azz drool tubes.

I have also never changed cam and lifters with the head on the motor. However, the '81 up heads do have room to pull the lifters through them IF you hold your teeth just right.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

PM me Bagel and I can tell how you can solve your problem. After all Southern Slant Racers are Smarter Than Yankee Slant Racers. Your friend Possum









Bagels Juiced Im Bamboozled

I wrote the one you're thinking of, but you're misremembering it. What I said was that there's no call to pull a running engine all apart just to install hardened seats. But if you're building up a head, it's foolish not to put in hardened seats.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Naw spit? Cool! Got a plug number or two for me?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.