What are you thoughts on Toluene? Does it work? Advantages/disadvanages?
http://www.elektro.com/~audi/audi/toluene.html
Just looking for a way out it we go to high on the compression ratio. 93 octane is the highest sold at the pump here without an hour drive to find 100 octane.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Toluene (also known as Toluol) is extremely toxic, explosively flammable, and dangerous to handle. It also costs a great deal more than $2.50/gallon! In one-gallon cans you're looking at between $12 and $20 at the retail level. Also, because it is used in the production of crystal meth, its purchase (and its purchasers) are tracked. Feel like getting an early-morning visit from the drug cops 'cause you've been buying Toluene and they think you're making meths?

Xylene/Xylol is somewhat less costly (about $11/gallon) and has higher octane rating, isn't used to make drugs, but is still extremely toxic and hazardous.

Any kind of "mix it yerself" fuel additive is a very expensive, very inconvenient, dangerous way to compensate for having failed to build an appropriate engine. Think about it, what're you going to do: Only drive within range of your garage? Or carry toxic and flammable chemicals around in the car for when you need gas and you're not near the garage? Just build the engine to run on the fuel that's available to you.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You might try hydrazine....also dangerous/toxic....not used for making meth....makes considerable power.

........Im with Dan...build the street motor to fit the fuel available. I would never build anything for the street that wont run on 91.


In Western Canada we have great fuel readily available...but I travel a lot and have to face the fact that sooner or later Im buying corn syrup in Iowa....so I build/tune accordingly.

I run our Bogger on snowmobile/off road premium. It is readily available here and is better than the road premium (and cheaper than 87). The trick is its marked.....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

It is pretty expensive compared to gasoline, but it is cheaper and more effective than the typical $5 for a tiny bottle stuff sold at the auto parts store. And it is high enough octane to use as an octane booster. Still, I'll have to agree with the others - if you are building a street motor, build it to run on pump gas.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Toluene does work much better than just about anything you can buy that is marketed as octane booster. Most boosters, even the better ones, barely do anything. They claim however many "points" of increase to the octane. A point is .1, not 1. Nice marketing ploy. I used to run toluene at about a 1-7 ratio with pump premium in my GN, it worked great. I have not priced it lately and if you buy it in any quantity you do have to fill out a simple form for the DEA . I bought a 55 gallon drum and back then the illicit use was washing cocaine. Another option is to cut pump premium with race gas or up to 50-50 with 100-130 av gas. Any more av gas will not run well. These are just ways to get by and will never run like real race fuel if that is what your engine needs. It will be a pain and only worth while for a primarily strip car that is sometimes driven on the street, like to and from the track or shows. Consider toluene to be as flammable as gasoline, more volatile, and don't breath the fumes or get it on your skin or paint. If it's a driver, make it so it runs on what you can get at the pump. Keep in mind fuel is not getting any better either, so I would keep some room for the coming years so called gasoline.

I left this out. As much of a pain as it was, it was in my opinion more worthwhile with my GN than with a normally asperated car. I would swap chips and reset my boost in about ten minutes to run normal or the spiced up fuel. It was not something I did all the time but when I felt like it. I could go back to pump gas in minutes even while filling up. Without that option I would not consider it.

If he uses it as a booster, and not a straight fuel, they won't come knocking...actually I live in a 'suspect' area, and have yet to get 'caught' for buying fair amounts of it for use as parts solvent (yes, the nice grey can at Carquest marked 'Solvent' but on the back it just says Toluol...)

It does really well in lawn mowers too...

I'm with these guys build the motor for what you are able to pick up locally, you don't want to be like that guy Big D and I used to bug way back in Florida who ran the voodoo juice in his gas tank....

To put it into perspective, i have an Oil company in town that can get a 55 gallon drum of whatever I want mixed up, personally I don't really need the $4.50 a gallon 104 leaded race fuel, but I do know it's available...(and the cops in my area don't seem to bust Farmers for using "off road only" Diesel in their daily driving rig, nor using "off road fuel/speed testing" fuel on the street...

-D.Idiot

I remember Chad! Didn t he add nitromethane to his 17 second bracket car? I seem to recall broken pistons......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Yeah, hope he's doing well...haven't heard from him in a long while...I just wanted to make a point of watch what you add to the tank...

-D.Idiot

Brennan PM me and I will give you a simple solution. Thanks Ron Parker












Bagels Juiced Im Bamboozled

"Just build the motor to run on pump gas" Well- thats what I'd like to do. I'd also like to get the most power out of it and building it with a very low compression ratio to be sure it'll run with 87 pump gas dosen't seem like the thing to do with a load of money in the engine. If some one could say what CR is the cut of to be able to still run 93 octane, then I set the ratio to that. But it seems that no one can or is willing to say. You know my setup, what is the max CR to run 93?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

The reason no one can give the magica nswer is because there isn't one. Every engine is different and operates under different conditions with different drivers. All these thing affect when and how badly and engine will ping which is all the Octane really is - a measure of the resistance to detonation or "ping." If you run at 9.5:1 or so you should be able to tune it for 91 or 93 octane pump gas with no problem. All you have to do is adjust the timing. Fooling around with additives and all sorts of witches brews to extract the last 2 hp isa lmost certainly more trouble than it is worth. A street car should be able to run on street gas; that means 91 or 93 Octane. Racing engines are a whole different animal.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Compression ratio is a small part of the picture. Firing pressure and temperature are the real factors. To make trouble free power you want your firing pressure and temperature in ranges that do not allow detonation.

You can reduce or increase pressure by compression ratio, cam timing, ignition timing. You can change temperature by lowering coolant temp, combustion turbulence, or fuel changes(higher Octane fuels burn slower and cooler.and make less power per litre) and ignition timing and fuel mix.

The best result is when all the factors are combined to get the optimum cylinder pressure and firing temperature.

Just for the record I build street motors to run on 87. The Valaint runs on 87 with a 9.25 CR....10 degrees initial advance. The cam was selected before I established CR. (comp 264s). The combustion chamber was reshaped to reduce detonation. I milled the block for CR. I like 87 because of its almost universal consistency and availability.

In your situation I would have built for 91 octane, about 10.5 CR and ordered the cam to make it work.( wild guess 280 adv dur) and added a 3000-3500 stall convertor or a 5 speed.

if you build the motor you plan and it pings you can change cams , get lower gears or add chamber volume.

time to get scientific and simple.......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I was warned to not believe the stated CRs of people engines online, because most are just guessing or don't know how to measure it correctly. I would say that is mostly true, but on the slant forum there are a group of smart people here and I would tend to believe you more than others online. Is your CR a mearsured value? I would think that if your running 9.25:1 on 87 then I should be able to runn 10.5 on 93.
I also think that is more HP potental than 2HP with a full 1. point increase in CR. 9.5:1 to 10.5:1 should yeld alot more than 2HP

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

My compression ratio is a measured 9.8:1. I run 87 octane with 8* inital and 18* mechanical advance. I don't know any specs on the cam I just know it is a Wolverine Blue Racer cam (it cant be very wild because I pull 22pounds of vacuum crusing the highway).

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