Hi.
I have plans for a turbo slant six build and as I go along I will need help and questions answered. I'm new at this type of thing and am pretty ambitious. I guess I'll just put down whats in my head and hopefully you guys can help me out, let me know if I'm on the right track answer the questions I have and any imput is greatly welcomed.

I plan on starting with a 225 block and crank. Next I plan on using 198 connecting rods and using pistons from a 2.2 turbo engine(will these work?) I read it on an artical here. Also I havnt been able to find them so does anyone know of a differnt piston or where I can find these?). I plan on using a mild cam. Clifford performance hasn't been working for me so I don't know what they have, any suggestions on a cam? Then for the heads someone mention to me to try to find an aluminum head. Would this be a better option, is it possible to find one? From there I would get a 4 barrel intake manifold from cliffod, not sure which carb I should run tho, any suggestions? I would like to use headers but would it be possible to run headers with a turbo? For a turbo should I use a TO3 off of a 2.2 or a TO4 off of a buick 3.8? I was also wondering on the possibilties of nitrous. I seen kits for turbo engine, will nitrous be an option on this build or will it just blow up the engine?

First off will this work?

Another question I have is will the tranny hold up? If not whats the options.

For a read end I don't know if im going to get a 8 1/4 or 8 3/4th yet. But what would you guys recoomend and with which gears.

The engine will be going into a 1973 dart swinger

Also I plan on putting 17" rims on the car.( I know alot of guys wont like this one lol)

I also plan on running dual exaughst

Also I know these next questions can not really be answered but a rough estimate would be nice, What do you guys estimate on 1/4 mile times and HP and torqe numbers.

Sorry for all the questions...
Thanks in advance,
Mike

I want a turbo in the future. I am wondering about keeping my headers. I want to do a rear mount turbo back by the rear axel. mathimatically I may not have room for the pipe going to the intake.

Hanging a turbo off each collector would provide no ground clearance.

I haven't even seriously begun my research. The weight of the turbo in the rear is a good thing. No intercooler weight up front is a good thing. No turbo heat under the hood is a good thing!

There is a turbo on the cheap article on Allpar . com.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Hi guys. I too am doing a turbo build and have asked many of the same questions. Do a search (right below the F in forum) for turbo and you'll have dozens of hits. Many of these questions have already been asked.

Rug, how would you run the oil and possibly coolent lines to the rear? With the tire well and gas tank I don't even think it's possible on my Dart anyway. I was just currious.

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

Didn't think about that. All I know is there is a company out there that sells kits for rear mount turbos that are bolt on for trucks etc. It can be done.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

ther kit from sts tubro has a pump for the oil i saw a build up on hours power tv they did duel on a corvette not sure of the year but it was not an older one

Well, I'm going through a second round of turbo buildup, this time cutting far fewer corners than I have been with previous work. Here's my thoughs on the idea.
If this is a pump gas motor, I wouldn't recommend this combination as the compression will end up too high. I'm planning on custom forged pistons on the stock rods.

You're not going to find an aluminum head without forking over thousands, maybe tens of thousands, for one of the rare Chrysler prototypes, or having one carved from billet aluminum. There may be five aluminum slant six heads in existance.

I can't help on the carb; I never got mine working right.

Headers with a turbo are tricky. You will need to set things up so that you have something else supporting 100% of the weight of the turbo and connect the header with a flex-joint, as the heat is murder on headers even when they're not holding up a 25 lb turbo.

I had a turbo off a Mopar 2.5 and it was way too small. It would spool up to 10 psi at 1,500 RPM and run out of breath at 3,000. The Buick turbo would be a better choice. However, I've gone all out now - I'm using a Garrett GT40. We'll see if I've made the opposite mistake and gone too big. I am not rear mounting it - I can fit it under the hood, and with a turbo the size of a basketball, it probably wouldn't spool if I rear mounted it. Besides, I don't have much room back there after plumbing up a very complex fuel system.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

[quote

I had a turbo off a Mopar 2.5 and it was way too small. It would spool up to 10 psi at 1,500 RPM and run out of breath at 3,000. /quote]

2 will get you 6000rpm?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I like the way you are thinking.

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Richard (aka Fingers)

The trick with Mopar FWD turbos is that Chrysler used two different ones.

The Mitsu version was used on all non-intercooled motors after ’88 and is way too small for a slant 6 (maybe even a 170). The turbine inlet looked to neck down to about the size of a quarter.

The Garret version was used on all turbo motors until ’87 and intercooled motors until ’89. The stock turbine will support 250-300 hp on a 2.5 and has an A/R of .48. There is also an aftermarket turbine housing with a .63 A/R housing available. In all cases, the compressor is too small.

I think the problem Matt had was that he was using the Mitsu turbo with way too small a turbine and compressor that wouldn’t match the needed airflow of the 225 (this is based on what I gathered from the article that Wayne did, which is where Matt got his stuff).

I am planning to use an early Garret turbine and center section with a T4 compressor. This is called a hybrid. If the .48 turbine doesn’t work, I will switch to the .63 A/R turbine. If it does work, I will use it until I get bored with 250 hp. In the end, the .63 will go on, just depends on when.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Yeah, I'd say that describes the problem quite well. I've also run the compressor map through a few online calculators - even a stock 225 that won't rev will push a TE04 off the scale. Quite a few of the K-car guys argue that the Mitsubishi turbo is even too small for a 2.5. Two of the little beasties, however, probably would work just great on a slant six.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Hey Matt, what A/R is the turbine housing you are running on that GT40 (assuming there isn't a "standard" A/R).

If I had the money, I would be doing exactly what you are. Get a good size T4 instead of messing with the T3/T4 hybrid I'm going to build from cast off parts.

At the same time, one of the things that makes the hybrid still appealing is the integral wastegate. As long as the .63 A/R turbine will support my upper end goals, I should be set and shouldn't have to do any more than get the turbo connected to the manifold and plumb exhaust out the back of the car. No extra fabrication to plumb the wastegate, no trying to make room for it, no cost. Now, if the .63 A/R housing is still too small, or the wastegate is too small, or..., or..., well then I've wasted my time.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Hey guys just wanted to say thanks for the responses. i havnt had a chance to do a search but when i do ill let ya guys know what im thinkin after that.

thanks,
mike

It's a 0.94 turbine A/R. The A/Rs don't compare very well across turbo sizes, however. The GT40 has a 77 mm turbine wheel. I don't have the dimensions for a K-car turbine wheel, but it's a lot smaller.

The compressor has a 0.58 A/R, but it's got an 82 mm exducer. That's about the same diameter as the Mitsubishi compressor housing.
On the other hand, with an external wastegate, I can clock the turbo however I please. The TE04 wouldn't rotate its compressor far enough that I could get the intake piping to clear the intake manifold very well and had to pinch it there. They both have their pros and cons. I won't deny that an external wastegate is a good deal more expense.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair