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| Eletrical Woes https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22730 |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sun Apr 15, 2007 5:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Eletrical Woes |
OK, Here it is , Got a 79 Volare - with a slant, and recently the Lights and Fan motor, and wipers are all running dim or slower than usual. What could this be? I swapped the eletronic voltage regulator - - Same results. The car runs, and Battery is not dead - Car starts up. Alternator seems to be good and The Alt Gauge is reading as it always does - Normal - A bit toward the C side. (Charging) Thanks for th help here. Greg |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Apr 15, 2007 5:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Could be a dead/shorted cell in the battery. The car'll still start up and run, but lights'll be dim, blower and blinkers will be slow, etc. Try this: Engine off, turn your high beam headlights on for three minutes, then turn them off and measure the battery voltage. If you see something significantly less than 12.7, the battery is highly suspect. If that's not it, could be corrosion/poor contact in the main feeds. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Dan, I will check the main leads and I will try another battery. It's been about 5-6 years on this one - Daily driver - pretty good for a Battery I guess. Cheers, Greg |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | No solutions yet.. |
Well I took a known good battery form my truck that tested at 13.XX Volts when Sitting - No load not running - Tested it running in the truck, Battery shows between 13 - 14 Volts with motor running on fast idle and Wipers / Lights on. I take said known good battery and place it into problematic vehicle, Which has a No load voltage of 12.25 Volts - and When motor is running with lights and wipers etc. on it tests at only 12.5 Volts. Same problem with said "good" Battery that showed 13-14 Volts in known good truck. Good battery Will show 12.2 - to 12.5 volts With Motor and accessories running or not. Does that mean I have a Wiring / Fusable link / shunt Problem?? Alternator Suspect?? I check all the grounds - They seem good. Thanks for the electircal Wisdom. Greg |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'd check the regulator, then if that's good, the alternator. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yeah, I'd be interested in knowing what kind of voltage you're seeing across the battery with the engine off, and with it idling, and with it running at around 2000 RPM. I'm starting to think in terms of an open or shorted diode or other fault in the alternator, though certainly the regulator bears testing. Remember- no "remanufactured" alternators! There are a bunch of brand new ones on offer via eBay at the moment; I can point you to a few if you wind up needing one. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I will yank an alternator from my Parts 318 and Use it. i also have a stash of them in the attic..(alternators) Remember I had already swapped the Voltage regulator and I get the same results. I have never Bought an alternator anyway... I get them rebuilt at the alternator Shop. They Really know their stuff, the piece comes back looking like it belongs on a 100 Point Superbird that you see at the Mopar nats, and I know it was done right, not some chung sheng parts store crap.. Greg |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Fri Apr 20, 2007 8:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Resolved - Aternator Faulty |
I put on the Alternator from my parts 318 - That solved it. I also went from a 34 Amp alt to a 65 Amp which has he coil thowing some hotter spark. Lights are bright and the wipers fly along now.. I get between 14-16 volts at the battery during fast idle with the accessories running.. Thanks for the input. I will be sending some of my older alts to the rebuild shop in the summer. Greg |
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