Since I'm going to go ahead and throw in the Blaster 2 coil today (along with a new cap and rotor and new wires to get me buy until the Magnecors come), I'm going to eliminate the ballast resistor. Looking at the diagram pictured (for electronic ignition), and the following photo, it looks like I connect the wires from the upper terminals to each other and leave the bottom wires disconnected. Is this correct?

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Wait a sec, wait a sec...are you eliminating the ballast resistor because you're going to do the HEI upgrade? Or are you staying with the Mopar-type control box? You may want to read through this post to understand the technical differences...

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The Mopar control box for now. I still need to do up a mount for the HEI controller. Should I leave the resistor in until I lose the Mopar box? I had been of the impression that the only real purpose for the resistor was to avoid burning points and toasting the stock coil.

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

also if i'm not mistaken I think you can burn your car down to the ground with out it (my brother lost his 84 ram this way ballast went up and it was quick fix on the side of the road)

Naw, you should definitely leave the resistor in until the HEI is ready to roll. Hit the 2nd link in my comment above for an explanation of why.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Fortunately, you are mistaken. Your car probably won't burn to the ground if you leave out the ballast resistor -- you'll just burn out the ignition coil and/or control box.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have about 10,000 miles on a recent SL6 rebuild. What should the voltage be at the coil and or at the ballast resistor for the ignition to work well?

My plugs are coated with a beige to a light cinnamon colored dust. I really can't get them to burn any cleaner to where they stay a little whiter like in my 69 440. Using Cenex regular for gas. The SL6 is 9.5 to one the 440 is 10 to one.

I measured the voltage last night after I got home and the top of the ballast is running 13.84 volts average and the bottom of the ballast and the coil positive terminal say 5.20 volts. This seems kind of low, but it is at an idle.

Should the voltage be higher at the coil?

If I change over to the HEI set up, what would the voltage be at the coil?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG