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 Post subject: oil pan gasket
PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 10:09 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 446
Location: Redding, CA
Car Model:
How hard is it to change the oil pan gasket without pulling the engine? It seems to be leaking from the rear part of the oil pan. Can I do just the oil pan gasket without doing the rear seal and timing cover?

I had to pull the trans to install my newly repaired tourque converter, and just got it back in yesterday. After taking it for a spin, the leak is worse than I thought. It doesn't gush, but my new exhaust and newly balanced/painted drive shaft are getting a little messy. I don't really want to pull all this stuff again so soon.

Is there a recommended gasket?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 10:38 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Did you check the tightness of the oil pan bolts?
Try to snug them down a bit more to see if that helps.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 12:51 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 446
Location: Redding, CA
Car Model:
Quote:
Did you check the tightness of the oil pan bolts?
Try to snug them down a bit more to see if that helps.
DD
I did that a while ago, they were loose. But I still had a leak. Recently I changed the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube o-rings. When I did the valve cover gasket, I checked the torque of the head bolts. Yesterday I changed the oil sender.



Unfortunately, a couple of weeks ago, my converter bolts came loose the same day I picked up the car from the muffler shop after getting the dual exhaust installed. When I was driving away, after the car warmed up, I heard a rattling, and vibration. Thinking it was the new exhaust (it cuts really close to the engine), I drove it home, then back to the muffler shop at which time it got really loud. By the time I got back to the muffler shop, I realized it was the converter bolts, not the exhaust.

By that time, the damage was done. I had to send the converter back to Midwest Racing to repair the converter, got a new flex plate and dust shield.

I got it all back in this weekend, and the leak seems worse. Seems to coming from the back of the oil pan. Maybe the converter bolts did some damage to the back of the pan? It looks OK, but maybe it did something. I was hoping I could just change the pan gasket to see if that is what is really leaking.

Maybe I going about this all wrong, but the leak is bothering me.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 1:15 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
It isn't easy, but you can get the pan out on most models by loosening the motor mounts and lifting the engine. When you get it out be sure that it is really clean before you put the new gasket on it and using a hammer and dolly flatten the pan flange at the bolt holes. A lot of people try to stop leaks by overtightening the pan which puckers the bolt holes so that the pan flange doesn't seal properly. The same thing is true of the valve cover and to a lesser extent the timing cover as well. While you're at it you should look at the rear seal and besure it isn't leaking. If you have any doubt it's a fairly simple process to install a new one.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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