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| Just purchased a 73 dart custom, have a few rookie questions https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22924 |
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| Author: | 73dartcustom [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 9:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Just purchased a 73 dart custom, have a few rookie questions |
So I just purchased a 73 dart custom 225 with 30,000 original miles. Everything on the car is in amazing condition and there are several logs of when it was started up periodically. It appears that there is a remanufactured carb on it now (with the old one sitting in a box in the back seat). I will be doing a complete fluid change before attempting to start it, and with that have a few questions. What would make the engine oil smell like gas? How would I go about fixing this? Whats the best thing to pour into the cylinders to lube them up before the first start? Any other information or tips would be greatly appreciated |
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| Author: | ceej [ Sat Apr 28, 2007 12:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If the engine oil smells like gas check the fuel pump. If the diaphram is leaking, you can get gas into the oil. Do not run it until you replace the fuel pump. Gasoline will take out your engine very quickly. If it has been started and shut down several times, you may have excessive wear, everywhere. If the float level stuck, gasoline can drain down through the engine as well. Find out where it came from and check things out. Get a Factory Service manual. My choice was to go with a licensed CD. Makes it nice when you want to drag a copy under the car and handle it with greasy fingers. Just print a new copy of the page you need. (Can you tell I work for a computer printer company?) Shooting lube to the cylinders... Not a lot, and give it something light. Spin it over with the plugs out. makes a mess sometimes, but gets the excess out. Even though you have low miles, you may need to take a look at your timing chain. Two years worth of mileage on a 34 year old car will likely add some miles that are unanticipated when moisture is present. A timing set and new water pump should be strongly considered. Your hoses, both for the engine and the brake system are very suspect. You'll likely get some warning if a heater or radiator hose let's go but the soft lines on the brakes are another matter. Replace all your fuel hoses, and inspect everything. I would highly recommend replacing all soft lines before firing up. (All Hoses.) The bushings in your suspension will probably need attention as well. If your equipped to deal with them, by all means, otherwise, get them inspected by someone reputable. Grease everything. Check your master and wheel cylinders. If you see indications of leakage, replace them. You're driving a classic car. Get it in shape, and it'll give you years of faithfull service! CJ PS: Hang onto that carb in the back seat. Rebuilds tend to be children of a lesser god. Rebuilding the original may deliver better results. Ya wanted input! |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Apr 28, 2007 9:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Welcome to the board! Sounds like you found a great car. You'll want to pick up the three books described in this thread. The advice to keep the original carburetor and rebuild it carefully is very good; you may also want to do the Fuel line mod in the process of changing your fuel pump, which is almost certainly the source of the gasoline in the oil. It's about time for the engine's first(!) valve adjustment; here is the valve adjustment procedure. Miscellaneous tune-up suggestions: Get NGK #ZFR5N spark plugs, gap them to 0.035", and remove the metal ring washers from them before installing them. Install new spark plug tube seals, too, at the same time; B45384 will get you a spark plug tube seal at NAPA (you'll need to order six). Or, you can get a set of six from Fel-Pro under P/N ES12794. Use a Standard-Bluestreak distributor cap number CH-410X, and a NAPA Echlin long-tip rotor # MO-3000. Keep an eye on the starting and running behaviour of the engine; '73 was the first year for electronic ignition, and many of the early-production ignition modules caused starting and running problems. A Standard-Bluestreak or Echlin module will solve that problem if it crops up on your car, or you can upgrade to a GM HEI module if you like. Do as Ceej suggests regarding lubing the cylinders - just a small shot of light oil (Marvel Mystery Oil comes to mind) in each cylinder, and the engine cranked over with all six spark plugs removed. You'll want to change the oil. In your position I'd probably run a good quality 10w-30 oil and a good quality filter (not Fram!) and change it after the first 1500 miles or so. How 'bout some pictures of your new car? |
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| Author: | 73dartcustom [ Sun Apr 29, 2007 8:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for all the info I will be doing EVERYTHING mentioned. I have not even trailered it home yet, but will take and post pictures as soon as I do. |
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| Author: | 73dartcustom [ Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Turns out it is a 74, wups...funny how my username is 73dartcustom http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2635464[/img] |
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