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Fan shroud?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23068		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Jopapa [ Sun May 06, 2007 7:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Fan shroud?
Where are the mounting points for the fan shroud? Did the '74s even have one? Looking at the radiator in my Duster while trying to determine if/how I want to do an elecric fan conversion (I have a fan out of a 3.8L Taurus that looks like it'll fit quite well), and I figured if there 's a bolt-on fan shroud, I could get one from a junkyard and modify it to use that as the mount for the Taurus fan.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun May 06, 2007 8:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
The fan shroud attached directly to the rear face of the radiator in '74. It's considered best to have an electric fan mounted right on the radiator, and I think you'll find there's insufficient clearance to have the factory shroud's thickness plus the thickness of whatever electric fan you pick out.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Mon May 07, 2007 1:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have only ever seen fan shoruds on slants equipped with the Wider rad ( ac or Max cooliong ) and included either the 7 blade fan or later years FJM bodies 5 Blade with a clutch.


I am not sure a fan shroud will bolt to your standard witdth rad.


Greg
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon May 07, 2007 1:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I have only ever seen fan shoruds on slants equipped with the Wider rad ( ac or Max cooliong)
Certainly shrouds are more common on the 22" radiator, but there were shrouds available for the 19" radiators, too.
Author:  sethmcneil [ Mon May 07, 2007 4:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Some of the electric fans have the provision to be mounted on the front of the radiator, pushing air through rather than pulling...
Author:  Jopapa [ Tue May 08, 2007 8:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I think you'll find there's insufficient clearance to have the factory shroud's thickness plus the thickness of whatever electric fan you pick out.
Oh yeah I don't plan on using both the shroud AND an electric fan. What I'd like to do is modify a shroud just so I can use the portion that mounts to the radiator and have that as a mount for the electric fan.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri May 11, 2007 7:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sounds like a great idea. Let me know how it works for you.

My new rebuilt slant six runs so cold I froze all last winter. I would like to get an adjustable thermostat switch and adjust it to say 200 or 210 or higher or just switch it off..... so I can get that new heater core to warm up. I bought a new 19" Modine radiator in Oregon and am running the OEM Mopar clutch fan Summit sells. The combination is way too efficient on the back roads or the freeway.

My 195 degree Stanton stainless steel stat runs cold at 135 to 140 degrees even though it is marked 195 degrees. It is brand new and does not have any bypass holes in it.

I am hoping that an electric fan conversion will warm things up!
Author:  Mark [ Sat May 12, 2007 2:11 am ]
Post subject: 
You might have a small leak somewhere in the cooling system. I had a radiator that had a small crack in the top tank and during the winter it would never warm up. I even took the fan off and put cardboard in front of the radiator. At red lights the temp gauge would barely move. Once I replaced it with a good radiator the car would get nice and warm inside.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat May 12, 2007 11:27 am ]
Post subject: 
That's a good point, but everything is brand new, heater core, hoses, radiator, including a new 16 pound cap. The engine ran a little hotter before the rebuild but not much. All fittings have been re-tightened many times, no leaks. I also ran cardboard half way up the radiator to help get some heat. Not much difference, maybe 40 or 50 degrees more max. Just enough to keep my hands thawed out. The 2 hour drives to work were very cold! It would warm up some if I wasn't moving, but on the freeway the temps dropped to about 120 degrees at 65 mph. If I slowed down to 50 I got a little more heat.

I am thinking that the system is too efficient. That is why I am considering going with an electric fan. Then I can shut it off or at least control it by cranking up the electric thermostat switch. I already took out the heater box and blocked off the incoming air so I am recirculating cabin air. Then, maybe I can get a little more heat in the winters.

I would trade cars on really cold days and my 69 Chrysler 300 375hp 440 will cook me out. Maybe I need more engine in the Dart to get more heat? :wink:
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat May 12, 2007 1:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Everything is brand new, heater core, hoses, radiator, including a new 16 pound cap. The engine ran a little hotter before the rebuild but not much. All fittings have been re-tightened many times, no leaks. I also ran cardboard half way up the radiator to help get some heat. Not much difference, maybe 40 or 50 degrees more max. Just enough to keep my hands thawed out. The 2 hour drives to work were very cold! I am thinking that the system is too efficient.
Don't think so. If you've got a properly-functioning thermostat in the system, it is very difficult to overcool an engine. What thermostat are you running?
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat May 12, 2007 5:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
The stainless steel 195 degree Stant. I have gone through three of them just to be sure.
Author:  Mark [ Sat May 12, 2007 6:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
You could have a thermostat that is stuck open (preferable over stuck closed). Replace the thermostat with a new one. If it is stuck now when you remove it the thing might close. Besides thermostats are cheap.

What I would do is take the car to a radiator shop and have it pressure tested to see if it leak down. All it takes is a pin hole to keep the cooling system from working right. The crack that I had in the top tank of the radiator was so small all I would ever see is a little seepage. The cooling system could never build up any pressure at all. Once it could build pressure after replacing the radiator the car got plenty warm.

Does the temperature gauge even move? Mine would stay on cold all the time and only move just off cold at a light when I was sitting still. That was after removing the fan and putting cardboard in front of the radiator. I guess at the time the outside temperature was at or below freezing. If your temperature gauge is at the normal temperature and it is still blowing cold air either your heater core is clogged up really bad or one of the cables or vacuum motors that operate the doors in the heater is not working properly. I've had cables on the original heater break and I couldn't adjust the temperature.

I ran a 195 degree thermostat in mine and on a 15 degree morning you could bake bread in that car it would get so hot inside. My car had a 22 in radiator with a shroud and a 7 blade fan. I had A/C in mine and since it gets over 100 degrees here sometimes and stays above 95 for months here I needed all of the cooling I could get. Set up like this the car could idle (in drive even) all day long with the A/C running and never overheat.

I hope this helps.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat May 12, 2007 10:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
It is all brand new, 3 Stant stats so far, new engine, heater core and radiator,
flushed the system twice now, still luke warm out of the core. Pressure tested at 20 lbs.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat May 12, 2007 10:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
The needle does move off the peg but stays at about 135 to 145 degrees. Never does it move to straight up position, always 1/3 to the left of center.

Engine runs good though, great color on the plugs, a very light cinnamon to white on the NGK UR4GP plugs.
Author:  Jopapa [ Sat May 12, 2007 11:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
The needle does move off the peg but stays at about 135 to 145 degrees. Never does it move to straight up position, always 1/3 to the left of center.

Engine runs good though, great color on the plugs, a very light cinnamon to white on the NGK UR4GP plugs.
That's how mine is, but the gas gauge also reads low. After calibrating the sender to show 1/4 tank with exactly 6 gallons, it still shows just a bit above 3/4 tank when it's completely full. I have a feeling maybe they're not getting a full, clean 5V to the gauges (which is why I'm going to go ahead and make a solid state voltage limiter), or they both have too much resistance in the ground path. Since they're fairly easy to rewire, I'm going to go ahead and do that if the new voltage limiter doesn't help the issue.

Okay, yeah, I hijacked my own thread :P
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