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Head Gasket Repair Time?
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Author:  svmorse [ Tue May 15, 2007 5:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Head Gasket Repair Time?

Hi All,

I have a 1975 B100 with a slant and it has been running fine for me for about two years but its always had emulsified oil. I thought it was condensation for a while but it think the head gasket is blown. I was trying to get it through the DEQ (Department of Environmental Quality) here and I motor flushed it to clean out the motor prior to the emissions test. I ended up with a LOT of sludge and motorflush up in the aircleaner. I'm going to try and change the head gasket this weekend, does anyone have a time estimate on how long this takes? I wonder if it's worth doing because it seems like my rings are shot. Does anyone have any tips for passing emissions with a messed up motor?

Thanks

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Tue May 15, 2007 5:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

Have you made sure the PCV system is working properly? Not just a clean/new valve, but the hose clear, and the passage in the base of the carb.

Author:  Doc [ Tue May 15, 2007 5:55 pm ]
Post subject: 

Retorque the head, adjust the valves and add of can of "block sealer goop"... then pray.
Doing this will most likely be a waste of time and $$ if the engine is badly worn or damaged.
DD

Author:  CStryker [ Tue May 15, 2007 6:06 pm ]
Post subject: 

I can do the head gasket in four hours if I'm in a hurry. If you've never done it before, I'd plan on setting aside a weekend.

Author:  Slanted Opinion [ Tue May 15, 2007 6:08 pm ]
Post subject: 

I think I would do a compression test on all cylinders (with all spark plugs removed at the same time), before I opened it up.

Then you'll know what cylinder to look at for a blown gasket, crack in head, etc. You can also add oil to any cylinders that are low to see if you have a ring problem.

A cylinder with decent rings/valves/gaskets should run 100 psi or better... but it is just as important to see if all cylinders come reasonably close to one another in compression readings.

-Mac

Author:  Ron Parker [ Tue May 15, 2007 6:11 pm ]
Post subject: 

Can you do a compression test on your engine ie the tools guage that will tell you the a lot. Thanks Ron Parker :D











Bagels On Juice Im On Boost

Author:  svmorse [ Tue May 15, 2007 7:15 pm ]
Post subject: 

Thanks for all the replies!
I changed the pcv valve and breather cap but not the hoses. I'll take a look at that.
I'll do a compression check and then retourque the head and adjust the valves. I'll give the block sealer a shot. I haven't had any kind of driveability problems with this van even though it looks like someone dipped the oil cap in butterscotch pudding :(

Thanks

Author:  CrAlt [ Tue May 15, 2007 8:48 pm ]
Post subject: 

Really shot rings will do that.... humidity in the air leaks past the rings so much that the little PCV valve cant suck it out fast enuf. As long as the oil level isnt going up and the oil it self isnt looking milky I wouldnt worry about it.

Author:  svmorse [ Wed May 16, 2007 10:51 am ]
Post subject: 

Can the rings be replaced without pulling the motor? I've heard that the crank can be pulled from below and the rings can be changed with the engine in the van.

Author:  dakight [ Wed May 16, 2007 11:27 am ]
Post subject: 

The rings can be changed without pulling the motor but it's done from above with the head off. That's OK if you don't have a lot of cylinder wear but from what you describe I would expect to see a lot of taper and out of round conditions in your cylinders.

Author:  Ron Parker [ Wed May 16, 2007 4:36 pm ]
Post subject: 

If the cylinders have ridges on the top of the bore that is going to be difficult. One is going to have to beat them up from the bottom. Not good that top ring will hit the ridge and something is going to break. I doint like hammers and engine builds. Also the cylinders are probally going to be oblong or not round a new set of rings will not solve this problem. I try to do things right rather than spend a little money and later I found out might have well just burned the money up. Thanks Ron Parker :D






Bagels On Juice Im On Boost

Author:  dakight [ Wed May 16, 2007 5:26 pm ]
Post subject: 

The ridge can be removed with a ridge reamer but the oval and tapered bore and wavy cylinder walls can only be corrected by boring.

Author:  Ron Parker [ Wed May 16, 2007 5:42 pm ]
Post subject: 

That is a correct statement . But if you have to use a ridge reamer to get the piston out then me and dakight re on the same page here. Thanks Ron Parker :D










Bagels On Juice Im On Boost

Author:  svmorse [ Wed May 16, 2007 9:50 pm ]
Post subject: 

I think the rings are going to be for another day. If I do replace the rings I'll probably pull the motor rebuild it and use it as a spare for my Dart. I'll just try to get it past DEQ and if I can't I'll sell the van to someone who doesn't live in the Metro area where any vehicle from 1975 and up must pass emissions.
Thanks

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