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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 12:00 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:33 pm
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Ok at the moment I just installed a Super Six setup on my 71 Duster, but I can't seem to get the car to idle correctly. I can get it to idle somewhat smooth but its idling at 1300rpm or so. Any lower and the engine stalls out. Im not running a choke coil at the moment and I don't have the fast idle deal hooked up. But that shouldnt matter right now, right? I have the engine nice and warm and I started backing the screws out and for some reason it seems like the engine ran the best with both screws backed out 4 to 4 1/2 turns. But it still wont idle at a normal RPM. Can the intake to head connection have anything to do with this? Im not totally sure if I have that on there flush enough, but there isnt any smoke or strange smells. Also I have two carb gaskets on at the same time and one is the thicker type. Could that be my problem? I put them both on because the studs were too long.

Does anyone know what I need to do to get this thing to idle smoothly?


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 12:24 pm 
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Only one gasket (the thick one with all the correct notches) goes below the carb. Using extra gaskets will throw off the calibration of the choke and trans kickdown linkages. What exactly is the carburetor you're using? Is it off a slant-6 or a V8? Used, rebuilt, "remanufactured"?

4-1/2 turns out on the idle mixture screws suggests you've got a vacuum leak or a very faulty carb. How did you seal up the EGR passages on the intake manifold? What's connected to the vacuum tap on the rearmost intake runner?

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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 12:50 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Is the gasket supposed to have two holes or just one large oval for the carb? Also do I use the goop to seal it or just put it on dry?

I bought the carb off of ebay. Apparently its been remanufactured by Holley. It came in a Holley box with the gasket and some broad instructions.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0099369228

I sealed the EGR passage with a gasket from Napa (the two holes inside didnt line up correctly, but the stud holes lined up fine. I didnt use any goop to seal it up.

The vacuum tap is just the hole on top of the intake runner right? I put the plug from my old intake into the new one to seal that up.


Last edited by ESP47 on Tue May 22, 2007 10:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 1:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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It sounds like it's way to lean at low RPMs.
A vacuum leak or a plugged idle circuit in the carb would cause this.
One test is to see if you can get the engine to idle down when you partially close the choke flap. (You have to back-off the fast idle screw to do this test) If it does idle down when partially "choked" then it is most likely a vacuum leak, if it still stalls, it most likely a plugged idle curcuit. (no low RPM fuel feed)
DD


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 1:31 pm 
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Quote:
Is the gasket supposed to have two holes or just one large oval for the carb?
Either type works.
Quote:
Also do I use the goop to seal it or just put it on dry?
No goop needed.
Quote:
I sealed the EGR passage with a gasket from Napa (the two holes inside didnt line up correctly, but the stud holes lined up fine. I didnt use any goop to seal it up.
No goop needed, but if the two holes inside didn't line up correctly, it's possible one of the gasket holes is overlapping the two manifold holes, which would allow exhaust to enter the intake manifold all the time, causing the symptom you describe.

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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 6:18 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Well I took it back apart and noticed I had some blowby on the 2nd runner closest to the firewall and also coming out of the metal intake to exhaust gasket. I didnt notice until today that they have the composite gasket from Australia. About how long does that take to get in?

Im really frustrated with this thing. Im going to put on new gaskets all around one more time and give it a try. Its 10lbs of torque for the bolts that go to the head right?


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 8:19 pm 
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The Australian gaskets have a reputation for arriving surprisingly fast. Sounds like you definitely have some vacuum leaks to clear up. You'll probably want to review the manifold installation article for the sequence of attaching and tightening the three bolts (or two bolts + stud) that hold the intake and exhaust together, so you can be sure to get a good and durable seal at all the junctions.

And yes, 10 lb-ft is correct.

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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 8:56 am 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 9:08 am
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Location: Chelsea, MI
Car Model: 71 Dodge D100 64 Plymouth Valiant Wagon
The biggest problem I have had w/ Carter BBDs is the throttle plate shaft bushings as the bottom. SPray the carb while it is running w/ WD-40--very heavily. Especially around the throttle shaft. If the idle changes, there's a leak around those bushings.
And that would be your vacuum leak and why adjustments have to be so rich.
Good luck,

Joe

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71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 11:33 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:33 pm
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Thanks for all the help guys. I ordered those gaskets from australia today and im going to get the intake and exhaust surfaced tomorrow. Hopefully everything lines up smoothly this time around. I'll have to follow those manifold instructions more carefully this time. I just kinda skimmed around and looked at the stuff I thought was important last time. Guess thats what i get for cutting corners huh?


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