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| what can i remove from my 74 slant? Please help https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23713 |
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| Author: | redfivexw [ Sat Jun 23, 2007 12:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | what can i remove from my 74 slant? Please help |
I am in the process of detailing my engine, replacing hoses, carb, valve cover, etc. Just prettying it up. I am wondering if i can get rid of any of this stuff on the top, i dont even know what some of it is! If anyone can look at the photos and tell me what the stuff is and what is not needed and how to bypass it i would appreciate it! thanks!      IMG]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb128/redfivexw1/HPIM1535.jpg[/IMG][/img]
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sat Jun 23, 2007 1:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have a 74 that I recently rebuilt. The only thing you need to keep is the voltage regulator, put that back and make sure it is grounded well or it won't work. Send me your email and I will send you some pictures of my 74. |
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| Author: | BoatAnchor [ Sat Jun 23, 2007 2:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | engine detailing |
a pretty neat masking trick I use when detailing with spray paint is to use Aluminum Foil- (I get a couple boxes of the off brand stuff for about 1/2 the price of Reynolds Wrap) it's alot faster and easier to mold around springs, clamps, motor mounts, brackets, elec. connectors, vaccuum lines etc. and leaves no sticky residue... of course newspaper / masking tape is great for the larger area's such as fender wells, radiator, firewall etc... I'm afraid that 'Chrysler Blue' engine paint won't hold up on your exhaust manifold though... |
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| Author: | dakight [ Sat Jun 23, 2007 2:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just a suggestion to make it easier to read this. Go back and edit your post to put a return between each picture and the one following so that the post will fit in the screen without having to scroll back and forth. |
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| Author: | Matt Cramer [ Sat Jun 23, 2007 6:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It's amazing what sort of disarray an engine compartment can get into after 30 years. I'd really recommend getting a factory service manual and some pictures of a better restored example so you can find the proper location of these things. I'll take a stab at identifying the ones I'm more certain of - my project is an earlier one and does not have as many emissions devices. That's your starter relay, and it controls the starter. It's normally tucked up on the firewall. What's it doing so far from home? Voltage regulator, needed for maintaining correct battery voltage with a stock type alternator. Again, it's normally on the firewall. It is sitting next to a PCV valve which is attached correctly. The hose thing at left is your crankcase breather hose and should be routed to the air cleaner, or at least have a filter on it. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Jun 23, 2007 7:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: circular object is the OSC spark advance controller
No, the OSAC valve on a '74 is on the air cleaner body. This what you're commenting on (the "hockey puck" looking thing) is the EGR vacuum amplifier. It is needed if the EGR system is to be left operational. It is not needed if the EGR is to be deleted. Original poster: See this post, and also hurry and get all three books described in this thread.
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| Author: | redfivexw [ Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | ok, thanks |
Ok, i read that post, do i need to keep the EGR system then, it seems it is recommended to get rid of it, i am unsure exactly what is needed to bypass it. I see the thing on the air cleaner, the hoses were already disconnected from it. To the guy who was asking about my fender mounted items, i had removed them to paint the engine bay. So my plans are this, disconnect the EGR "hockey puck" and anything else in the line, i believe it says you need to run a new line somewhere else to replace it, not sure about that. I am replacing the carb with a new one, putting on a chrome valve cover. I would like to replace the breather with one that does not connect to the air cleaner, that is ok right? I want to install all new hoses all around, they all look original or really old anyway. Can anyone recommend a manifold paint that will not burn off? Hmm, anything else i should know? PS - does anyone know which numbers on the ID plate tell you the original paint code? My car was originally gold, but Chrysler had several gold colors then. I started to paint the engine bay Y1 Yellow but i think i may go with the original color. Sorry, did not mean to go off track. Back to the engine bay! |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used POR-15 high heat manifold paint. A you can see from the pictures I sent you it is the cast iron gray color. It works great and does not burn off. Just follow the manual on the hoses. I took off the hoses to the radiator and EGR of and plugged the radiator where the valve was. You should be able to chuck the entire hockey puck and cap the one line that comes from the carb. Check my post and the pictures and you should have a smooth running car. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used POR-15 high heat manifold paint. A you can see from the pictures I sent you it is the cast iron gray color. It works great and does not burn off. Just follow the manual on the hoses. I took off the hoses to the radiator and EGR of and plugged the radiator where the valve was. You should be able to chuck the entire hockey puck and cap the one line that comes from the carb. Check my post and the pictures and you should have a smooth running car. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used POR-15 high heat manifold paint. A you can see from the pictures I sent you it is the cast iron gray color. It works great and does not burn off. Just follow the manual on the hoses. I took off the hoses to the radiator and EGR of and plugged the radiator where the valve was. You should be able to chuck the entire hockey puck and cap the one line that comes from the carb. Check my post and the pictures and you should have a smooth running car. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used POR-15 high heat manifold paint. A you can see from the pictures I sent you it is the cast iron gray color. It works great and does not burn off. Just follow the manual on the hoses. I took off the hoses to the radiator and EGR of and plugged the radiator where the valve was. You should be able to chuck the entire hockey puck and cap the one line that comes from the carb. Check my post and the pictures and you should have a smooth running car. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used POR-15 high heat manifold paint. A you can see from the pictures I sent you it is the cast iron gray color. It works great and does not burn off. Just follow the manual on the hoses. I took off the hoses to the radiator and EGR of and plugged the radiator where the valve was. You should be able to chuck the entire hockey puck and cap the one line that comes from the carb. Check my post and the pictures and you should have a smooth running car. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used POR-15 high heat manifold paint. A you can see from the pictures I sent you it is the cast iron gray color. It works great and does not burn off. Just follow the manual on the hoses. I took off the hoses to the radiator and EGR of and plugged the radiator where the valve was. You should be able to chuck the entire hockey puck and cap the one line that comes from the carb. Check my post and the pictures and you should have a smooth running car. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used POR-15 high heat manifold paint. A you can see from the pictures I sent you it is the cast iron gray color. It works great and does not burn off. Just follow the manual on the hoses. I took off the hoses to the radiator and EGR of and plugged the radiator where the valve was. You should be able to chuck the entire hockey puck and cap the one line that comes from the carb. Check my post and the pictures and you should have a smooth running car. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 24, 2007 12:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: ok, thanks |
Quote: Ok,
You'll be best off not removing or attempting to rework or bypass anything until you have those three books in hand. But, to delete the EGR system, you remove the hockey puck, remove all the vacuum hoses connecting to it, remove the cylindrical device attached aft of the hockey puck and all wiring connected to it, plug the nipple on the carburetor where the line used to attach that ran to the hockey puck, plug the nipple on the intake manifold where the line used to attach that ran to the hockey puck, and if you want to be clean and neat about it, replace the EGR valve with a blockoff plate.i read that post, do i need to keep the EGR system then, it seems it is recommended to get rid of it, i am unsure exactly what is needed to bypass it. Quote: I see the thing on the air cleaner, the hoses were already disconnected from it.
Careful here. There are a few different "things on the air cleaner". Some of them are beneficial and should stay hooked up.Quote: am replacing the carb with a new one
Careful here. New carburetors are great, but parts store "remanufactured" ones are trash.Quote: putting on a chrome valve cover
If you're thinking of one of the ones off eBay, that's a poor idea; they're junk and lack the necessary baffles.Quote: I would like to replace the breather with one that does not connect to the air cleaner
Why? It's best to use the correct ducted type, and doing so will keep your engine cleaner.Quote: Can anyone recommend a manifold paint that will not burn off?
For which manifold, intake or exhaust?Quote: does anyone know which numbers on the ID plate tell you the original paint code?
Post a clear, sharp, close-up picture of the fender tag(s) located on the driver's side inner fender, and we'll decode your car's equipment and specs for you.
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