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| Clifford Hyperpak https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23956 |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 9:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | Clifford Hyperpak |
Anyone run one on the street? I am aware you can have issues with them fouling plugs. I think a multispark ignition would help that. Clifford in their ad claims it was "improved" over the original design. What about flange thickness? I have thin flanged Hooker headers. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 9:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Clifford Hyperpak |
Quote: Clifford in their ad claims it was "improved" over the original design.
Doug (Doctor Dodge) improved on the original Hyper-Pak intake, then Clifford got sloppy with their casting quality.  People have run them on the street and made them work, but they're not a popular pick for street service. It's a really long intake tract for a wet (fuel/air) system and the fuel will tend to puddle out at low RPMs regardless of your ignition system. |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 2:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
PM Duster Idiot. He has done a lot of research on his and gotten ti to run very well. If someone tries to sell you a Clifford, make sure to get pictures of it first. As Dan said, there are some really crappy ones floating around. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 7:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Takes some time to tune... |
Quote: PM Duster Idiot. He has done a lot of research on his and gotten ti to run very well.
If someone tries to sell you a Clifford, make sure to get pictures of it first. As Dan said, there are some really crappy ones floating around. I have several threads from long ago when I had a summer to 'just install it' and work things out... The EFI one I have was one Reed sold me and I will have to go back and fill some small casting 'bubbles' in with JBweld (luckily it's a dry manifold). Clifford has some that look like some major 'scabs' fell out of the runner walls. THe 'wet manifold' on my Feather Duster was an early casting and was drilled for two carb patterns on the plenum opening, the newer versions just are drilled for the Clifford adapter plate (read: another vaccuum leak to seal, and it robs you of 3/4" needed under the hood for your air cleaner)... The flanges are 'thick' like Doc's dutra duals, I had to spend some time whittling on things to make it more even for the washers, and the runners are 'fat cast' so you'll have to dies grind them a bit to get the triangular washers to fit right. THe manifold works good overall, winter time is a bit of a challenge without any manifold heat and/ or a heated air source during starts and warm up...(you'll have to run a 'heat box' under it if the air temp is below 50 degrees F for 'decent' drivability)... If you take the time to 'split' the manifold I think it runs better for street purposes, torque is pretty nice down low, and when the 'ram tuning' effect starts in at the 3500 rpm level it'll feel like you got another cylinder... If you have the time to tinker and work on the little quirks the manifold has, it's a neat thing to play with... Just search for my user name and the term Hpak, to look at the threads...there is still much more to come, Greg Ondayko's doing more racing with his so it looks like we're covering both sides of the street. Good luck on your decision. -D.Idiot Gas station Attendant :"What kind of Manifold is that!!!!!! I never seen one so long!!!!" D. Idiot: "Are you Jealous mine's longer than your's, or I'm get better gas mileage and the same power as your 318 Dart...." Gas Station Attendant: " Well, @##%$@#^%...." |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
D.Idiot, What carb have you found to work well for the street? and what kind of mileage do you get? Would the water jacket adapter under the carb be enough heat in the winter? or does the entire manifold need to be warmed from the bottom? Our winters in the Puget Sound get down to 15 to 20 degrees for a few weeks. It would be nice to get some more torque down low. I have good torque, but would like a little more around 1500 to 2000 rpm. Thanks, |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I started a thread on Moparts about running a TQ on a slant. Demonsizzler is the man when it comes to those carbs! Turns out they added a divider in the plenum to work things out. He gives the specs etc. I am at work right now. I'll post a linky later. |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Adding a divider in the plenum is the way to go if you want to use the Hyper-Pak manifold on the street. Doing that really helps low rpm fuel distribution and throttle responce. DD |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | More info... |
Quote: What carb have you found to work well for the street?
and what kind of mileage do you get? Would the water jacket adapter under the carb be enough heat in the winter? or does the entire manifold need to be warmed from the bottom? I use the Holley 390 for 'daily' driving, but I also have a Holley 600 Vacc. Secondary that I had modified with annular boosters...The 600 gets the best 'power', but you get the same mileage as a 360...the 390 gets about 13 intown (traffic and idling can make it as low as 11...), highway it gets in the 20-21 range normally, on warm summer days I can dial back the jetting a bit and get up to 24-26 (but that also takes away some of the 'power'...). It's not an easy system to just 'plug and play', my posts do pave the groundwork for the daily driver guy. The heat box is a must for those in northern towns especially in the fall/winter...waterbox won't work so well, since you have to wait for the 'engine' to warm up to get you any 'hot water' to heat the intake (even then the intake is so huge that a hot engine won't even heatsoak the carb plenum...). THe easiest way to get the intake warm enough to combat fuel puddling is doing what the British Car guys have done and make a 'box or bridge' with your exhaust pipe (kinda like our heat stove in the stock intake)...so it will heat things up quickly and keep the gas in vapor form/keep the fuel charge kind of 'unform'. This has been the only way to make it streetable (we'll see how EFI changes this ball game...might have to use an air cleaner with thermactor for that one, during engine warm up...). Splitting the plenum helps keep the signal good at lower rpms, it also will show you which bank of cylinders needs some 'dialing in'... If using a mild cam, I wouldn't an exceptionally big carb (TQ is definately out, Edelbrock 500 at best...Holley may not be somebody's favorite, but it has a lot of diffeent tuning options and it's modular so you can borrow parts off of other carbs...) -D.Idiot |
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