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installing engine, noticed a few things, have questions.....
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24257		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  oibrownskin [ Sat Jul 28, 2007 9:31 pm ]
Post subject:  installing engine, noticed a few things, have questions.....
so my 225 slant install is going well. got the engine in without a hitch and we are planning to install the tranny tomorrow or next weekend (depending on conditions).

Now, the engine is in and the mounts are torqued, but the engine wants to tip backwards. How do I support the engine while we roll the tranny under the car that is lifted and install the tranny? I mean I have some ideas, but what have you guys done and tried in the past?

THere is a metal nipple coming from the cylinder head that is pretty corroded, but I could not get it out. here is a picture:
Image
Will this cause me problems? My gut says, in the future it will continue to corrode and will eventually lead to a failure of the cooling system. what is this and what can I do to remove/replace/repair?
Also, when installing the damper on a 318 (i know this is slant but I have two cars) how on EARTH!!! do you torque the damper retaining bolt without the engine rotating? This has got me stumped so far.

Please help.
Thanks,
Caesar
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat Jul 28, 2007 10:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
I had the same problem. I cut it shorter with a hacksaw and then cut a slot to put a big screw driver in it. Spray some Kriol and add some heat from a fine tipped torch. Put a crescent wrench on the screw driver and carefully twist it out.

Now to keep this happening again, you can get a stainless steel nipple or a brass one from the nearest boat shop or good hardware store. Don't buy the same kind (steel with cheap plating) from the auto parts store.

Nice looking job so far, just put a nice heater hose fitting back in its place.
Author:  TRYSIX* [ Sat Jul 28, 2007 10:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
Rusted water nipples can be difficult. I would fist try soaking it for a few hours with penetrating oil, such as Master Blaster. After a good soak, I would heat the head around the base of the fitting , then try to remove it with a good vise grip or equivalent pliers. There's a good chance it will twistoff and you might have to use an easy out or even carefully chisel it out. A thread chaser may also be needed. I hate to remove rusted fittings.

On the 318 I believe there is 3 theaded holes that you attach your puller to...you can use 2 bolts and wedge a pry bar or long screwdriver between these bolts to hold the dampner as you install it. Grade 8 bolts would be best. I've done it a couple of times with grad 5 bolts and bent the heck out of them , but I managed to get the job done.

Trysix/David
Author:  69a100 [ Sun Jul 29, 2007 5:54 am ]
Post subject: 
To torque a damper bolt. Rotate the motor before TDC, remove the spark plug and stuff some rope in the #1 cylinder. As you tighten the bolt the motor will turn and compress the rope, preventing the crank from going over the top. When done, just rotate the motor backwards and remove the rope.
Author:  rock [ Sun Jul 29, 2007 7:01 am ]
Post subject:  Hi Oilskin, here is what I do
Hi Oilskin,

I know everyone here has their techinques, here is what I do for both your questions...

For a while I was changing engines and trannies in and out several times a week, by myself, in the backyard. As you found the engine pivots nicely on its mounts. I used this to my advantage putting in trannies from underneath the vehicle. Get a pair of the shorter roll in type jacks from Harbor Freight or some place that has them on sale...Pep Boys had them last week for $13. Put one jack under the engine and put a piece of cushioning between the jack pad and the pan or block and you can raise and lower your engine's rear in as fine increments as you want, and this is a real advantage when putting in the tranny. If you use the other jack under the tranny you can so closely adjust the engine and tranny as to have them slide right in place. I tried using a tranny jack and it took up all my underneath room so I couldn't work. I needed a tranny jack for an automatice, but I don't even use a jack under an 833. I put a piece of 2x4 across the frame, set the tailshaft on it, grab the input retainer and rest it in the bellhousing. Set yourself, grab the tailshaft and input and do a bench press with the tranny. You will be surprised how easy an 833 goes in the clutch disc and seats to bell. Make sure the tranny is in neutral so you can turn the rear shaft to mate up the splines. With a brand new disc I have found it wise the slide the disc on and off the input shaft a few times before assembling the clutch because sometimes those new splines are tight, tight. They loosen very fast though, no more than a half dozen on and offs and you will be set. What makes me use bad language is the throwout bearing! It can be a pain to get on the fork from outside when you pop it off one of the fork fingers with the input shaft. You will see what to do if it happens to you, bad language helps. Automatics weigh too much to do with no jack, but again I just use the other jack like I was talking about. The reason is my backyard has a slope. The tranny jack is all the time trying to roll out from under the vehicle with the tranny on it!

I would just wait til tranny was in and leave in gear, block the wheels, and tighten the damper bolt.

rock
64d100
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