: Is better to have the cylinder head and
: manifold on or off when re-installing the
: engine. I'm hoping for the easy drop in bolt
: it up and go approach but thats never the
: case. How's the best way to do it. I imagine
: it'd be easier with the head and manifold
: cuz those damn washers are a pain to get on
: in between all those nooks and crannies. I
: believe there is a way to balance it better
: if the manifold is on. And thanks for all
: the help around here. I really appreciate
: it. I will become a bonified slant racer one
: of these days. My dream is to build a
: slanted hot rod.

: Prior to installation I put them all together
: except for things easily damaged,like the
: oil filter, carb, fan, etc.

: Agreed, get everything bolted-on. Leave the
: carb. distributor, alturnator and fan / fan
: pulley off.
: I "spin-on" a oil filter just to
: cover the hole and have had good luck not
: banging it up to much.
:
: I need to do a "How To" on this
: subject, I see lot's of questions and
: concern on engine installation. A Sl6 is
: really one of the easer engines to
: "R&R".
:
: Just remember, the two bolt holes on the top of
: the head are the factory's *designed-in*
: engine lifting points. When doing a
: "engine only" install, use the
: front hole only. When doing the engine &
: tranny as an assembly, have a smooth strap
: (like an old seat belt) accross the two
: holes, this allows for the needed
: "tilting" as you "slip
: 'er-in".
: When set-up as intended, from these lifting
: points, the engine will "balance"
: and hang in the prefect position for easy
: line-up.
: DD

: Duhhhh... myabe thats why I had to take the
: flywheel off huh. (color me dumass)