Does anyone know who will recurve a /6 dizzy ? I'm going to install my super 6 set up and would like a little bit more go from my 170 auto. How much does this luxury cost?
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| distributor recurve https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24387 |
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| Author: | lincparts [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 10:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | distributor recurve |
Does anyone know who will recurve a /6 dizzy ? I'm going to install my super 6 set up and would like a little bit more go from my 170 auto. How much does this luxury cost?
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| Author: | 65deuce [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Do a search on the topic, you'll find lots of insight on the subject. Check this link too. http://www.potentialtech.com/pmoran/dist-9-22-05.pdf |
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| Author: | lincparts [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | not comfortable |
i have the tech info , however since this is my daily driver, i'd like to send out the dizzy, put in another one(loaner) , and get the recurved dizzy back and bolt in and go. I've never done this before, i don't want to screw it up... |
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| Author: | rock [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | lincparts...i didn't do it before the thread, its easy! |
Linc.. I didn't know about recurving until last summer when I read the document at the link posted in the first answer to your question. Its easy! If you are already doing your tuneup...timing, etc, you are very close to being able to recurve. Emsvitil's threads are so good I got "into it" and I bought a Sun machine to replace my dialback timing light. I now have a "stable" of distriburtors with known advance curves as a result. Overkill, really. If you are already timing about all you'd need is a moderately good digital caliper and dialback timing light (~$100 total will do) plus a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the internal holddown clip. Get a junker distributor and take it apart for practice (~$10) and you can ever use the parts as practice in slot filling and filing. I'm tellin' ya, it's as easy as setting timing and idle...after the first time it goes quick. Just keep lots of notes on how your changes affect advance curves against Emsvitil's or another "ideal" curve. This arcane skill is but one of many I have taught myself ONLY because I have gotten so much help from this Forum. rock '64d199 rock '64d100 |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: not comfortable |
Quote: i have the tech info , however since this is my daily driver, i'd like to send out the dizzy, put in another one(loaner) , and get the recurved dizzy back and bolt in and go. I've never done this before, i don't want to screw it up...
All engines/combos are slightly different....... So my ideal curve may not be best for you. It's really a trial and error process. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:46 pm ] |
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Here's the thread I started: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13264 |
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| Author: | lincparts [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | thanks! |
Ok, i'm convinced! I've done my fair share of tune ups, got a good snap on timing light, I need a couple of victim dizzy's to operate on, thanks for the reassurance!!! I LOVE THIS FOURM!!!! 
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 4:43 pm ] |
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Rock, What spring combination do I need to get everything in by 2000 rpm? I have a 15r govenor with stock springs and am only get 10 degrees out if it. I have to run static 20 degrees to get 30 total. Some folks say enlarge the big looped one and leave the light spring alone. Others say just rotate the posts on the big spring and go for a lighter small spring like a yellow one in the MSD Chev kit? I only got one good eye right now and don't want to take the dizzy out anymore than I have to. I have a hard enough time getting the cap on straight...... Thanks, |
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| Author: | rock [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Ted, a rising tide lifts all ships |
Ted, You asking me humbles me greatly. Just as a rising tide lifts all ships, I learned from the masters on this forum and got lifted up knowledgew ise. Because each engine and driver are so different, I wouldn't prescribe for you, rather I would refer you to the logic of gearhead on june 22, 06, and kesteb and emsvitil about that time. I read those guys stuff, and that of cecil and doc a long time before I ever took a distributor apart. I drew little pictures for myself and would devise little thought games of "if I do this, what should happen" and then went to the threads to see if the curves were supporting my thinking. I have never used a 15r reluctor and refer you to slant six dan's listing of vacuum cans. I was motivating a 4200 lb vehicle with a 3.91, 4 speed and a moderately built engine. Your cam will make a lot of difference in these matters. I have always worked with 9 to 10r reluctors and like them. Once settled there, you will see all my above-listed experts talk of a stronger primary spring compared to a secondary and tell you how to make your own with a tension gage. Which I did. I understand your dilemma...you want as prescription and doggone it, I would identify a prescriber as a BS artiist. If you are doing a car with an automatic and a 2.56 or somesuch, I can't even begin to guess what it might take because I have never been there. I think Emsvitil's thread was usiing a car, but I don't remember if it was built or automatic. Still, I would generalize this far....I like 10 initial with a 10r reluctor and strong primary spring on regular gas. Realizing it is hard for you to put dizzies in and out, fix up one with a better reluctor, springs, and adjustable vac can, and put it in. Go to adjusting your timing first, drive, then adjust can, drive and see where you get. It will likely improve where you are. I have been tuning a year, and this tuning is why I just switchd to a Holley, for us tuning freaks Holleys allow nearly endless combinatorial analyses....it takes time and you need to keep notes. rock '64d100 |
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