Hi Guys,

I mentioned the last day or so that I finally got my high dollar (to me) head on. I cold set valves and cranked er up last nite to check for leaks. Well drn it I have the old bugaboo I'v haven't had before..water leak either at manifold stids or at head.

I would discount head leadk because I used ARP studs and a Felpro gasket but admit it is possible. I want to look at studs first because the leak (which I can't see clearly, seems to be at the end studs and maybe near the middle. While not lazy I am not looking to remove everything for starts. Snce the manifold studs were put in the head (standard studs) hand tight after coating threads with anti sieze, do you think removing the suspect nuts and washers and using RTV on those threads then tightening with the old jam nut trick would be worth the effort?

When you get down to it, I don't know how I can pressurize the head to see where a leak may be. I was thinking fo these studs because the leaks are small and the rear one is only steam and engine runs fine, just a liittle rough from valves needing fine adjustment. The head was of course pressure tested in the shop and magnafluxed for hidden faults. Like slant six dan says I would prefer to fix the problem rather than look at symptoms, and in this case taking everything apart won't do a thing to systematically check or solve the problem.

Thanks
rock
'64d100

hello,
if you go to page 4 (at the moment) of this forum (engines) and read the post on broken stud removal- there is quite a bit there about manifold studs and water jackets.
what I have found is that the 2 end studs (front and back) go through to water definately - and need sealant.
some others on this board have found that some other /6 heads differ.
I think you will be pretty safe that it is not the head gasket- as you have said. but ---?? famous last words ....
if it were mine I would pull the 2 end studs,whack some sealant on and try that.
then if a centre one is really leaking do the offending one as well.
my 2 cents ...




regards,Rod

Get a Stant cooling system checker and pressurize the system. You'll be able to find your leaks on a cold motor, or one with the manifolds off.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thanks Walpolla and 'Zilla...just what I needed!

I had read that thread and it got me thinking of studs instead of taking off everything to look at head gasket, and then got me to look at my head collection. I have one drool tube head and EVERY stud goes to h20, and have 2 peanuts heads where only the end 2 and center go to h20. I did what Walpolla said and removed the 2 end and center and RTV'd em and let em sit overnight (today is restart day). But since my new head is a drool tube and since I now have data showing this range from 3 to 14 studs in h2o, I was studying how to pressurize because I don't have compressed air. OF COURSE 'zilla is right and the answer was in my face and in fact in my FSM in a pic, I just never had or used a pressure tester...now is the time to run out (Sun AM) and get one. GReat suggestion and while it is a tool many would never use, I am one who likes good tools I may even use only once. Out to Pep Boys!

Thanks again,
rock

If you have an Autozone near you, they might have a pressure tester on their tool rental/loaner program.

Those Stand testers are not cheap.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Last one we bought at Hyster was around $85 off the cheap tool guy.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I ALWAYS put teflon tape on all my studs on assembly.

Lou

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