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Total Timing?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25389		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 5:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Total Timing?
Quote:
What total timing are some of you all running? I thought that most were between 25*-30*. (no vac pod)
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 5:59 pm ]
Post subject:  timing
when i ran my 10.5/1 motor, 284/528lift cam it loved 32 degs. with my 11.4/1 motor,290/540lift cam it like 25degs but only with a 50/50 mix of avgas/supreme, the 10.5/1 motor did have octane 104 added when i raced it.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 7:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Mopar Performance Standard...
Should be about 30-32 initial+ mechanical advance...

If trying to get mileage and your engine can take it...plug the pod in so you get 17-20 more degrees from the vacc. adv....
(so about 45-50ish at normal highway cruise with no ping)
-D.Idiot
Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Oct 16, 2007 5:55 am ]
Post subject: 
My high-ish comp street motors like 26-28 and no more. That is total mech advance, with about 12-15 initial. Add 18-20 of vacuum for total cruise advance of 45-50.

Lou
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:26 am ]
Post subject: 
I am running 45 degrees at 2000 rpm, 50 degrees 2500 rpm, no pinging on regular.
Author:  MitchB [ Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:16 am ]
Post subject:  Re: timing
With your compression and cam, I'd run as much initial as I could - maybe something like 16-18 degrees. You'll probably be good with around 28-30 total timing - maybe a bit more depending on octane. I would use a vacuum advance unit for increased mileage and performance at low speeds.

Mitch
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Tue Oct 16, 2007 11:59 am ]
Post subject:  Timing recurve
I run 20 degrees initial timing with a nice tight red, medium spring on the primary govenor, cam rotated so it is not loose like stock ones are and a very heavy large extra long looped spring on the secondary cam rotated for extra length. This is per Doctor Dodges suggestions. Govenor is a 15R. Vacuum can is a 11R and provides a nice boost of 13 to 15 degrees.

Idle quality is good and smooth.

In the north west, Puget Sound region, it never gets too hot so the engine run cooler than Florida or Texas, etc. Pre-ignition is not an issue since the rebuild. Cam is advanced 4 degrees.

Added all of SlantSixDan's mods, cap, rotor, coil, NGK plugs, 8mmm wires, etc......
My car runs with out problems on regular. The better the gas, the longer the burn outs. :D

My son was living in Florida for a few years and mentioned that he had to run reduced timing because of the hotter weather and greater heat soak in traffic. If you can get the right thermostat and get the controller on the electric fan set right, you should be able to sneak up the timing. Atleast run the a vacuum advance. Get the adjustable so you can dial it out at idle.
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: timing
Quote:
With your compression and cam, I'd run as much initial as I could - maybe something like 16-18 degrees. You'll probably be good with around 28-30 total timing - maybe a bit more depending on octane. I would use a vacuum advance unit for increased mileage and performance at low speeds.

Mitch
What do you think it should all be in at? And how is this all in at RPM determined?

I have the MSD Timing computer installed. Its set at zero until is lock the distributor.
http://www.msdignition.com/tc_3.htm

Image
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:20 am ]
Post subject: 
It depends on your rear end ratio. Since mine is a commuter car, daily driver and I drive minimum 120 miles a day, I run a 2.76 posi and P235 60 14's.
I cruise at 60 mph which is at 2500 rpm. So that is what I set the springs for, on the recurve. The mechanical advance kicks in immediately after 750 and is all in by 2500. So my gas pedal is very responsive, kind of punchy. When at cruise I am at 15 to 20 pounds of vacuum depending on the grade. When I lift, let off on the gas the vacuum canister kicks in rather noticeably and feels like you have just been sling shot. Vacuum at that point is between 20 and 23 pounds. It actually can be felt around 15 pounds and the push is more pronounced at 20 pounds. If I am drafting behind a SUV going 60 mph from 35 to 50 feet I will actually be sucked right in. Big trucks are a free ride.

For a brick, it is not tuned too bad. Just need more heat in the manifold. Mine is cast iron, so I am looking for an aluminum one barrel and going to an electric fan so the number one cylinder will run hotter. Doc said I should drop the nose a little more so 215 60 14's are going on the front. I used to run 205 70's on all fours, but it is too squirrely. The traffic is so bad up here on the freeway I need to stop straight and quickly. The lower profile tires do that perfectly. The P235's on the back are like sea anchors. :D
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Pulled the distributor today and disesmembled. My plan was to fix the distributor in full advance but... how. The local speed shop said they just spot weld it in place. I believe thats possible with a chevy distributor because the two plates are very close to each other, but the slants have nearly a 1/2" between the two of them.
I pulled off the springs. The smallest emount of centrifical force rotates it to full advance. Anyone see a problem with this. I have reinstalled it and set the base timing at 25* (total) Then dialed the intial back to 17*. Set the advancement to start at 1500 rpm and all in at 3000 rpm. Timing seems steady watching it with the light.
I would like to "tie down" the distributor sometime, unless everyone thinks it'll be fine. Any ideas on a good clean way to do that?
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I pulled off the springs. The smallest emount of centrifical force rotates it to full advance. Anyone see a problem with this.
Author:  slantzilla [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
IIRC, there is room in the advance plate to put a small stove bolt and nut in the slot to lock the advance.

Mine has the slots 1/2 welded shut, and light springs. It will stay retarded only during starting, and as soon as the engine fires goes to full advanced. I have 18ish initial and 25 total. No pod.

I also have a 3800 stall and 3.91 gears, so low end drivability is not much of an issue to me. :lol: :lol:
Author:  mszauner [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 5:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Still Not Gettin It
If I have a stock engine and distributor, what would this equate to with the timing light? Where should it be? I am around 15 but I still think it may be too retarded because it still stall at idle when hot. I am sorry I am not getting this. I just want a car that runs and doesn't stall to drive, not race. Thanks all.
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 6:48 pm ]
Post subject:  timing
with a stock dist, your should be at 12degs at 750 idle,no vac,if you dist,vac is hooked to port signal on the carb when you increase rpms the degs should go to 35degs at 18inlbs of vac,that if the tension on the vac canister wasn`t tighten. :roll:
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