Hi all,

I posted this way as I stopped getting responses from my last post.

I removed the pipe with the screen from the block and still can't get the pan off. I need about another quarter inch.

Someone mentioned dropping the chunk of iron with the torsion bars down a an inch. If I do this is there anything I need to be aware of? Will it drop with the steering box attached ??

I don't really want to pull the engine just to change a pan gasket.

please help,

Thanks

Jeff

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If you always do what you've always done, you always get what you always got.

I know this has probably been mentioned, but you might have to rotate the engine to get all the rod journals out of the way. Sorry if this has already been covered.

bwhitejr

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'72 Duster (Performance 360)
'83 Ramcharger (Performance 318)
'80 TrailDuster (360)
'80 D-150 Truck (See Below)
CompCams 252S, Holley 390cfm, Offy manifold
Ported, Polished and Gasket Matched
P4286813 Springs,0.040 Overbore,
0.090 Shaved Head

I did rotate the engine and as I can see everything is clear.

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If you always do what you've always done, you always get what you always got.

Jeff,I've not had to do this job yet but in past posts seem to remember others talking about blocks of wood and jacking the engine up with one engine mount lose.I guess that forces the motor to roll over for the needed clearance?Anyway if you're that close you could try the german way "und force it a bit".If you have an over/under hoist maybe pop the other mount off and lift that puppy up a tad more.Not much help I guess but I always look for the longway around the shortcut

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Thanks for the tip,

however I have already taken both motor mounts off and jacked up the engine to the fire wall. Its as high as it will go with out lifting the car.

I'm still thinking of loosening the cross member the torsion bars are connected to and see if that gives me enough room.

I'm in uncharted area with that though and not sure what stresses are there that I need to be aware of.

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If you always do what you've always done, you always get what you always got.

If you remove the center link the pan should just fall out. I have had success disconecting only one side of it and shifting it out of the way. Hope that helps.

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. . . there was good sport at his making.

Another trick is to unbolt either the idler arm or pitman arm to drop the link assembly lower.
DD

Did the idler arm thing its been out of the way. Seems like others are able to get these pans out without having the trouble I'm having.

Did they do something different with the 71 Demon??

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If you always do what you've always done, you always get what you always got.

Ok, so to get the pan out I jacked up the engine (after removing the motor mounts), But still didn't have enough clearance. I took out the bolts holding the cross member that holds the torsion bars in place. I then pried down the cross member and inserted a two by four to keep it in place.

I was then able to work (WORK) the pan out, and WORK it back in.

This is no easy job by no means. A few hints, Drop the pan down as far as you can and then slide the pan to one side. Using a pair of vice grips unscrew the sump pipe that sucks the oil up into the engine. Let it lay in the pan until you remove it.

Once the pan is out clean it up and apply gasket. Also shake around the sump pump screen as I'll bet there is some garbage in there. You might be surprised at what you find. (hopefully not to many chunks of metal).

You do not have to remove the oil pump as I was told. Just extra work.

I want to thank who ever posted about the citrus drain cleaner from Home Depot. That stuff is amazing at removing grease.

When ready to reassemble, you can screw the sump pipe back into the block. With the cross member down you will have the room.

Before you jack up your engine take a look at the bolts that hold the transmission in place. Mine had rattled loose (Long before I owned the car), which allowed the engine to walk 1 1/2 inches forward. This is a fun job to get your engine back where it belongs. Also when jacking up the engine. Watch the fan blade. I had to bend my blades back and buy a new radiator hose.

Finally when you put it all back together, you might have bent the pan that protects the flywheel. This makes one heck of a racket when you fire her up for the first time and can make you go to tears while thinking something is in the way of the cam. Bend the plate back in place and all will be normal again.

I want to thank all for the advice I received. I put many of it to practice.

By all

Jeff

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If you always do what you've always done, you always get what you always got.

Sounds just as easy to pull the engine. I did the pan gasket in a truck without pulling the engine once. I didn't even have to jack up the engine, but I will never change a slant 6 pan gasket in the vehicle again.

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Joshua