My new '64 330 isn't charging all that it can. If I'm sitting at an idle then the ammeter dips down until I rev up the engine to charge the battery. The brushes look O.K. but I'm wondering if the voltage regulator may be to blame. Any insight would be good.

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Are you running electronic ignition? If so you may need a constant out put regulator.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

It's all stock at this point but I was seriously considering doing the HEI swap this week since I have all the necessary parts in my shop.

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Normal behavior.......

The old alternators don't have much output, and at idle they don't have enough output to keep up with the load (really noticable with your lights on)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Alright, so if I do the HEI swap then should I go with an after market regulator? If so which one. I'm a big fan of reliability so I'm going to get my alternator rebuilt anyways.

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The original alternators' max capacity ranged from 30 to 45 amps, which isn't a lot by modern standards but is plenty for stock or reasonably-close-to-stock cars. The output at idle isn't as high as in newer alternator designs (or newer versions of the Chrysler alternator), but the problem of almost no output at idle is often greaty aggravated by the installation of a "remanufactured" alternator from the parts store. These contain mismatched components from multiple different original alternators, which are physically interchangeable but don't work properly together. Or, they have been "upgraded" with cheap "high amp" kits which permit the alternator to put out more than original current, but at the cost of much poorer low-RPM output.

And then there is the question of whether your alternator is healthy. There are many problems that can affect any alternator and reduce its output. An open or shorted diode, or another fault in one of the alternator's winding phases, can cause the alternator to carry on working, but with reduced efficiency and output. Often, such alternators will pass the so-called "tests" you can get done at the parts store.

There is no such thing as a "constant output" voltage regulator. The term was made up by whoever was writing fiction for the Mopar Performance catalogue a bunch of years ago. This fictional special voltage regulator was in good company; there were also the "high compression 9:1" slant-6 pistons that were in fact ordinary production items and a bunch of other pretend-performance parts. Furthermore, the quality of the electronic boxes Mopar sells (voltage regulators, ignition boxes) is inconsistent and generally poor these days.

Fortunately, there are many good options for voltage regulators.

Other threads worth reading here and here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan, I'll perform the prescribed tests but I'm pretty sure a good dose of maintenance and refurbishing my alternator should set me straight. I have a really good auto/marine electrical guy that I use and trust. Every one should have one of those.

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Totally agree! He can probably sell you a WAI/Transpo electronic regulator, number C8010-1. If not, get that Echlin VR-1001 or Standard VR128.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.