I am wondering if all slant 6's are the same? The reason I ask is I have an opportunity to buy what someone is telling me is a "new" slant six purchased from AutoZone 2.5 yrs ago for his 72 Dart. I see that they are rated for less horsepower than the earlier models. I imagine this is b/c of emissions standards. I am wondering if I should even buy this engine if it is only 110 HP. The one in my '66 Dart is probably 145 HP but I don't know for sure. Please enlighten me so I don't waste my money.

He is selling this engine,and a rebuilt transmission with a shift kit installed for $650.00. Now I always need a running car so I am still tempted to buy this engine but would like to know if it is necessarily the lower HP.

I have had 383, 318 's but this is my first /6 and I like the simplicity.

Thanks!

Ok...

Duh...

I imagine that the newer lower HP slant six has a different cam.

Does anyone know what the real difference is? Is there anyway I can tell from looking at an engine which version it is?

They just changed the way that they rated the engines in '71 or 2. His motor will probably make about as much power stock as yours.

What he has is not a "new" engine, but a "rebuilt".

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

1. No, they're not all the same.
2. The block you're thinking of buying is not "new", it is "remanufactured" — big difference. "Remanufactured" parts are seldom of very high quality.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ty for your response. I had been assuming that it was probably remanufactured. Can anyone think of any reason I should not buy this /6 and "rebuilt" 904 trannie w/shift kit for $650.00?

...because unless you're desperate for an engine right this minute, "remanufactured" units are generally not worth the price.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am not desparate for an engine right now.

I wanted to avoid being desparate for one in the future.

I was originally looking for a block to build but I dont think I could build anything for the price of this engine and tranny.

Your comments vex me. I dont want to spend the money, nor do I want the lower HP engine but I dont want to regret not getting it in a few months.

I still don't understand why 650 is not a good deal for the setup though.

Here is his "pitch" -

New engine and rebuilt tranny with shift kit installed. engine already has distributer, water pump, fan, coil, plugs, wires, and fuel pump all brand new as well. All it needs to run is intake, and carb, starter and alternater. New the engine cost $800.00 with out all the parts on it already, and the tranny was rebuilt for $375.00 so its a deal @ $650.00


Thank you for your feedback!

What is hard to understand about the two-word phrase low quality?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If it were me, I would find a trust worthy machine shop, spec the parts you want installed into the block and then you will know it will work, work the way you want it to(economy, performance), and it will last. It will cost more than $650 but it wil perform and last longer than the price difference.

Before anybody gets thier feelings hurt.

MJ....question the seller. Ask is it new or remanufactured? Are the additional parts new or reman? Also try to get the brand names of the parts suppliers. With this info we may be able to draw a slightly different conclusion concerning the potential value of the package.

There's a load of possibilities about this. Did the seller have a local guy rebuild it, and he's trying to salvage as much as he can out of a potential loss? Was the trans rebuilt locally, and by whom?

If the remanufacturer of the engine is a relatively reputable company, it may be worth it, especially with all the extras on it.

Dan's right in calling it into question, as most reman's use the lowest priced, (and quality), components they can get in order to remain competitive. Additionally, the end products are not the assembly that came in the back door to get rebuilt. The assemblies are broken down into thier individual components, all pieces are inspected and scrapped or refurbished as needed, then a reman assembly is put back together with a hodge-podge of correct components, but not the same components that it came in with. This practice most times leads to short life and lower overall performance.

Roger

The OP already said:
Which pretty much tells the whole "quality" story.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Personally I would rather have a seasoned block than a replacement unit any day. The early blocks have 3 freeze outs on the side and the later ones(70'sand later) have 5 there might be other differences but I don't know them.The cylinder walls are fairly thick on slants and they can be punched out to 40 over or more so rebuilding an old one isn't a problem.People around these parts(NY) throw them away all the time.I get good running slants given to me at least once a year.We are at a real advantage in the car hobby right now because these guys all gotta have hi performance v8's with 4 bbls and dual ex or headers high lift cams and so on. Most of them wouldn't be caught dead in a 6.When I sold my 65 Barracuda 6 cyl 4 speed car everyone that looked said "if it was an 8 I'd take it" except the guy that finally bought it after being for sale 3 years.Get em now before the gas hits 4 bucks a gallon 'cause thats when you won't be able to touch them any more

Hello,

The only remanufactured block I ever got that was a good one was a short block from ebay seller Robzet, who has a few put together in a Cincinnati shop on a military rebuild contract. He probably still has some. Beautiful work still crated in a wood crate dated 1985. As some of the fellows said already, slants are all around us, cheap or free. Slants are also FUN. Which is why I would get a bare block (I will GIVE you one) or a Robzet one to build upon. Slants are addictive...don't get the rebuild just yet. If you want a rebuilt 904, I will ship you one for little more than the $60 carriage fee. What will happen once you start driving your slant is you will figure out you need a better induction, then a cam, pistons, head, and turbo and efi...after a while. Just read what others are doing and slowly build up a parts list to add to your block. A built slant makes a stock slant block feel like a 3 cylinder French block. And it doesn't cost a fortune to do, if you do the heavy work. I don't remember just how little Chaarlie has in his a-- kicker, but its CHEAP!!

rock
'64d100

#1 a motor purchased & used for 2.5 years is used no matter how you slice it.
Do you know this person-- can you drive the combo?---

as has been addressed earlier-- who did the tranny work??---- & the motor would just be a used motor(probably less since it was an auto zone unit)

So what is a used motor & tranny worth to you? $50 ---
$650??

As big as Houston is I'm sure there are many more slants out there--- ask some questions --- this deal will be there tomorrow
Lawrence

hello to sl6 dan and other sages- have benefited and appreciated the good advice of sl6 dan on many topics, but have to disagree here somewhat with the comments on rebuilts. maybe my experience was unusual or just lucky. in 93 i installed a reman sl6 long block from pep boys. cost 893. i put 100k miles on it without any problems or oil burning until 2006 when i had to junk the car due to severe corrosion and rust. it was a 77aspen . it was used on many long distance trips to fla and other places as well as my daily commuter. the engine was still running well when i had to junk the car. pep told me it was bored out 60 over. it even seemed to have more power than the replaced original engine and continued toget the same mpg 22/30 with the 4pd od. the only thing i ever had to do with it in 13 years was adjust the valves. would swear by that engine reman. what do you think- unusual ? bob f