Slant Six Forum :: Valve lash setting and the like....

I now this horse has been flogged to Hades and back

COLD SETTING DOES NOT WORK for tuning no arguments to be accepted.

cold setting only has one use - to get the motor running so you can do proper valve lash setting hot and running.

And on chappy thought the .020/.010 was metric.

BUT here the crazy South African is again of on a tangent - I do mine with a vac gauge hooked up.

to increase low-end torque - increase the valve lash...I can see some of the sense - since valves not opening as wide results in a stronger vacuum signal

I think the main mechanism at work here is reducing effective overlap, thus reducing charge dilution at low engine speeds.

I lash them cold and give the master touch hot, NOT running, then start the engine and do the final check. On motors that I have been servicing, using and checking for years I just go ahead and lash them cold with 90% success rate - no retouch needed after warmup

well I lash them cold and give the master touch hot, NOT running, then start the engine and do the final check. On motors that I have been servicing, using and checking for years I just go ahead and lash them cold with 90% success rate - no retouch needed after warm-up.

I say as long as you've been around your motor long enough it really doesn't matter what you're doing referring to lash as long as you're coherent with the method of your chioce.

with the vac gauge hooked in I upped my vacuum from 14 to 16.54 inches of mercury......................and I live at 5000 feet above sea level - I think you loose about 1 inch per 1000 feet so if I am correct it would give me nearly 22 inches at sea level

s far as for starting a fight over lash, I'm just kiddin with the guys... I know that the hot and running crowd would never understand the cold or hot not running guys, and vice versa. We just LOVE to beat dead horses Mr. Green Hey, beats the crap out of trying to be a smartpants on exhaust prices huh? Twisted Evil

Author:	68barracuda [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 12:55 pm ]
Post subject:	Valve lash setting and the like....
OK I know this horse has been flogged to Hades and back but I must share my personal test this weekend - on no less than 4 slants - news travels when the slanter's hear there is some one who speak slant... COLD SETTING DOES NOT WORK for tuning no arguments to be accepted. My reason for stating this I have tested both methods cold setting only has one use - to get the motor running so you can do proper valve lash setting hot and running. Two guys had custom pushrod's - different expansion rate than standard - they tried them cold got it running then all went down hill - cause a buddy told them to set it cold....Oh my word One chap had different non stock F$@!d valves again the metallurgy played him for a fool. And one chappy thought the .020/.010 was metric. took me an afternoon got them all sorted. Set all engines for full mechanical advance 32 degs at 2600rpm And they are all happy campers BUT here the crazy South African is again of on a tangent - I do mine with a vac gauge hooked up. It helped me getting them all just right - no bouncing vac needles. Hey if it works it works - it prevents me from setting them to tight. On the subject of lash - in the mopar engines( or was it the how to hotrod your small block mopar) book the make the statement that to increase low-end torque - increase the valve lash... I can see some of the sense - since valves not opening as wide results in a stronger vacuum signal - comments on this Dan /Doc

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:06 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Valve lash setting and the like....
Quote: I now this horse has been flogged to Hades and back Right. Quote: COLD SETTING DOES NOT WORK for tuning no arguments to be accepted. Right again. That, however, will not prevent people trying to argue the point. Quote: cold setting only has one use - to get the motor running so you can do proper valve lash setting hot and running. Right yet again. This, also, won't prevent people trying to argue the point. Quote: And on chappy thought the .020/.010 was metric. Quote: BUT here the crazy South African is again of on a tangent - I do mine with a vac gauge hooked up. Nothin' crazy about that! Quote: to increase low-end torque - increase the valve lash...I can see some of the sense - since valves not opening as wide results in a stronger vacuum signal I think the main mechanism at work here is reducing effective overlap, thus reducing charge dilution at low engine speeds.

Author:	68barracuda [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:12 pm ]
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Quote: I think the main mechanism at work here is reducing effective overlap, thus reducing charge dilution at low engine speeds. Oh yes there is that as well - half asleep over here

Author:	68barracuda [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:09 pm ]
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..........and believe it or not - it is easier to set them hot - with a high cr engine it is no fun turning the engine by hand to each position

Author:	68barracuda [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:22 pm ]
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One last remark..................YOU WISH!!!! with the vac gauge hooked in I upped my vacuum from 14 to 16.54 inches of mercury......................and I live at 5000 feet above sea level - I think you loose about 1 inch per 1000 feet so if I am correct it would give me nearly 22 inches at sea level Comment's Dan?

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Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:43 pm ]
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I wish for a lot of things. I wish somebody would come shove several million untraceable dollars through my mailslot. I wish people in general were 70% less greedy, selfish, willfully ignorant, inconsiderate and gullible, and 70% more thoughtful, generous, far-sighted and logical. I wish I had a hot tub. I wish it didn't get dark at four freakin' thirty in the afternoon this time of year. There's more, but you get the point. What, pray tell, have I been inadvertently wishing for in the context of this thread? Excellent vacuum reading. I think your 1" per 1000 ft is about right. My cars used to show about 15" to 16" depending on the gauge and the day when well tuned in Denver (5450 feet elevation).

Author:	argentina-slantsixer [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:01 pm ]
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well I lash them cold and give the master touch hot, NOT running, then start the engine and do the final check. On motors that I have been servicing, using and checking for years I just go ahead and lash them cold with 90% success rate - no retouch needed after warmup.

Author:	sandy in BC [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:21 pm ]
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Quote: I lash them cold and give the master touch hot, NOT running, then start the engine and do the final check. On motors that I have been servicing, using and checking for years I just go ahead and lash them cold with 90% success rate - no retouch needed after warmup Yes,,,,,yes.....yeah and that too.......yes

Author:	68barracuda [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:50 pm ]
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Quote: well I lash them cold and give the master touch hot, NOT running, then start the engine and do the final check. On motors that I have been servicing, using and checking for years I just go ahead and lash them cold with 90% success rate - no retouch needed after warm-up. Wimp - You just cant handle the knuckle bashing, arm jerking teeth clattering vision blurring - did I miss one? oh yes hot oil splattering experience that is / valve lash setting I mean really - what else could ma mopar have done to shake the flab of techies? They have integrated one of those shaking machines that was the vogue way back then into our hobby so that we did not have to go to the gym and stand next to the wife and look silly - shakin' all over - all we had to say is "Hun, time to set the valves again" difference being we could have a cold one between sessions:D Seriously as long as it is done hot no probs' It is uncomfortable to do it while the engine is idling but, I prefer to do it this way( the factory recommended way), you your way, and who ever else their way as long as it not done cold

Author:	argentina-slantsixer [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 2:48 am ]
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do you seriously believe that factory lashed valves hot? Mjuahahahahahaha I have seen the way it was done. Dead cold, zero cold. If the car ran like crap they "might" check them lashes hot or send it off to the car dealer running like crap. Not "read" or "been told". Zero cold, man, like I like my ales I say as long as you've been around your motor long enough it really doesn't matter what you're doing referring to lash as long as you're coherent with the method of your chioce.

Author:	dakight [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 4:19 am ]
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Oh dear... here we go again...

Author:	68barracuda [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 5:10 am ]
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Quote: I say as long as you've been around your motor long enough it really doesn't matter what you're doing referring to lash as long as you're coherent with the method of your chioce. Yup - and the factory did not practice what they preached....at all on this topic Local Chrysler horror story - the blocks here up to 72 where machined on ancient kit used to make Packhard stuff on - every now and again one would chatter while skimming the block - the severity of the chatter, and thus how much material needed to be removed to remedy the problem, would determine if it was a socalled formula S block 9.0:1 VIP 9.2:1 or so called charger power high compression motor and that CR is still a mystery to me, I do know they had a better cam and exhaust Apparently the same type of thing was going on in the body shop The cars with the VIP badging and vinyl roofs, were the ones who needed serious panel beating round the roof to make the windows fit The lesson in all this a late sixties early seventies a body from here your best bet was to get an entry level and mod it your self - my dad did it time and again

Author:	emsvitil [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 12:14 pm ]
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Set it hot. Let cool. Take measurements. Now you can set it cold.

Author:	68barracuda [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 12:33 pm ]
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Quote: with the vac gauge hooked in I upped my vacuum from 14 to 16.54 inches of mercury......................and I live at 5000 feet above sea level - I think you loose about 1 inch per 1000 feet so if I am correct it would give me nearly 22 inches at sea level To quote myself I am also recurving my dizzy had the std light spring and the light spring from the transdapt kit in - set ful advance for 32 at 2600 hot - but experienced ping at WOT under load Idled at 750 gave me 8 degree's so this evening our with the std light spring in with the std looped heavey spring -much better Idle at 750 give 15 degrees, with 32 at 2600 - pulls like a steam engine wich brings me to my quote the vac read is now 17.13@ 5000feet corrected it gives 22.6 so with this setup I think I will have better pullaway - better vac and timing coming in faster Was always wondering what vacuum tuning is about until I started doing it - fantastic IMHO Quote: s far as for starting a fight over lash, I'm just kiddin with the guys... I know that the hot and running crowd would never understand the cold or hot not running guys, and vice versa. We just LOVE to beat dead horses Mr. Green Hey, beats the crap out of trying to be a smartpants on exhaust prices huh? Twisted Evil uhm log manifolds any one

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