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| Reviving an old motor https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25906 |
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| Author: | Mike_64_Valiant [ Sun Nov 18, 2007 6:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Reviving an old motor |
I am so happy after 4 years of the car in storage and a year with out seeing the car I will get to play with it again. I was able to score a good deal not sure of the year yet but its a 225 slant six with 48k original miles from oil pan to air cleaner for $100. The problem it has not ran for 6 years but ran flawless before it was parked. I know it needs cleaning but What will I need to do to get this thing ready to start? I know I will need to pour oil down the cylinders and turn the motor over by hand. I figure change the cap and rotor plugs and wires. The carb has to be dry I assume so I want to know if I should get a new carb or install my new 4bbl setup on a stock setup. I only have 2 days to get the engine ready and installed before I have to leave town again. I have all the gaskets and I have a head that has been milled .060 and mild porting should I swap them at this time let me know what you would do. Thanks for all your help. Michael |
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| Author: | dank10fenny [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 1:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
sounds lie you got it mostly under control. cept you got a deadline, which always screws things up. "ill just swap pads real quick before work..." |
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| Author: | rock [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 2:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Mike, here is some contrarian advice |
Hi Mike, Nice to see another NC slanter! Heck man, it if ran fine when parked, it oughta run fine again. You will be amazed how well these engines come back to life. If I had limited time I sure wouldn't be looking to do the head and new carb deal...I suggest getting a known running baseline first. I wouldn't even change the plugs, cap and rotor or carb first. Check the oil level and the water level. Take out the plugs, put a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder, look at the plugs and see if they are gapped ok and reasonably clean, then rotate your engine with the plugs out. If you have a combination open end / box end wrench use it on the crankshaft bolt. If no bolt use a battery and turn the engine with a remote switch on the starter relay using the starter to turn it over. Then put the plugs back in after dipping each one in brake clean or gasoline. Disconnect the tank fuel line from the pump intake and run a line from a gas can to the pump inlet to be sure you are getting good clean gas. Pour a 1/3 cup gas down the carb, block the wheels, put er in neutral, and try to start it. It will try to run roughly even with a totally opened up dried out carb that has gas leaking out of it. It will most likely try to run being a good old slant. Yiou can give it a small shot of brake clean down the carb too. If it tries to run or does run, pull the valve cover so you can see if it is oiling up top if you get it running at all IF it runs rough you can plot out your next steps knowing you have a running, even if rough, motor. If it won't even try to fire, then you need to check the "fire providing" circuit. Get it chugging, leave the other stuff for when you have a little more time, because a chugging motor gives you a great feeling and is only a small step or two from a smooth running motor. I would do a head and manifold job at the same time, by the way. rock '64d100 |
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| Author: | tophat [ Mon Nov 19, 2007 4:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
With the plugs still out, I like to crank the engine over until I see oil pressure in a gauge. Or have a helper crank it over, disconnect the wire from the oil sender and use a test light hooked to the POS side of the battery, and the probe on the oil sender. When the light goes out you have pressure. Just what I would do. good luck TopHat |
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