Slant Six Forum :: whats the right way to install rings

But a little pain is cheaper than a tool.....

Quote:

But a little pain is cheaper than a tool.....

Sheesh... I got my ring spreader for $10 I'm figuring it'll be around for the next 3 slant sixes..., plus if you don't get the ends over the lands by spreading them enough and scratch the piston (or if using moly rings and you accidently crack the coating off the ring)...

-D.Idiot

You should check the gap, stick the ring down in the cylinder it is going to be run in & us the piston to push it until its stright before checking the gap.

The ring pack should have a diagram that shows what place the gaps should be placed at on the pistons.

I always just spiral the rings on the pistons. Take it slow and easy & when you get close to the end of the ring you have to pull out just a little to get the end of the ring to go down over the piston. Just dont force it if it feels like anything is binding.

Jess

Yes, you are referring to putting the piston & rings in as a assy when installing for the build. What I am talking about is just stick the ring by itself in the bore & using the piston to square it up for checking the rings gap with the ring in the bore. Its all good though

Jess

I spiral them too. (big pause, grab a coke and a beef sandwich or two)

(after getting all the pistons ringed and assembling the con rods) Getting the ringed piston down the bore is a piece of cake, with or without a ring compressor. I use a wooden mallet back then, now I just have a delrin fetish so I usd a delrin hammer last time I assembled a motor.

Author:	stolan83 [ Tue Nov 27, 2007 5:15 pm ]
Post subject:	whats the right way to install rings
I have never build a motor from the ground up. What are the dos and don't about installing my rings, I spent to much mony on these pistion to mess it up by just wing it

Author:	terrylittlejohn [ Tue Nov 27, 2007 5:39 pm ]
Post subject:	rings
i have always rolled mine on and off with a small flat top screw driver even though its not the proper way, you can use an exspander tool just for rings, it`s like a snap ring pliers that the ring ends are open up and slipped over the piston and in the groove.

Author:	BigBlockBanjo [ Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:03 pm ]
Post subject:
Just use a little motor oil on the piston lands, and spread the rings apart with your thumbs. It is possible, it just hurts you fingers like crazy. But a little pain is cheaper than a tool.....unless your buddy has one. A toll is really best, as you decrease the risk of breaking a ring. Getting the pistons down in the bore is a little harder.... Good luck!

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:28 pm ]
Post subject:	Lisle Ring Spreader...
Quote: But a little pain is cheaper than a tool..... Sheesh... I got my ring spreader for $10 I'm figuring it'll be around for the next 3 slant sixes..., plus if you don't get the ends over the lands by spreading them enough and scratch the piston (or if using moly rings and you accidently crack the coating off the ring)... -D.Idiot

Author:	6shotvanner [ Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:32 pm ]
Post subject:
Don't forget to end gap the rings

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Author:	BigBlockBanjo [ Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:11 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Lisle Ring Spreader...
Quote: Quote: But a little pain is cheaper than a tool..... Sheesh... I got my ring spreader for $10 I'm figuring it'll be around for the next 3 slant sixes..., plus if you don't get the ends over the lands by spreading them enough and scratch the piston (or if using moly rings and you accidently crack the coating off the ring)... -D.Idiot I never said it was easy.... If I did it again, I would surely buy a tool, for all the reasons you mentioned. As far as the ring gaps.....I had your run-of-the mill rings with my NAPA piston kit, and the rings were DEAD on. I was all ready to gap them, and then they were correct. I would still check ring gap with any and all gaps, even "custom" sets.

Author:	stolan83 [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:26 pm ]
Post subject:
does it matter if the gaps line up or not. When I bought the pistions the made the rings too, I was told the they are "pre gaped". should I trust this gap or check it.

Author:	sandy in BC [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:51 pm ]
Post subject:
Check the gap in your bores......stagger the ring gaps on the piston.

Author:	LUCKY13 [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:54 pm ]
Post subject:
You should check the gap, stick the ring down in the cylinder it is going to be run in & us the piston to push it until its stright before checking the gap. The ring pack should have a diagram that shows what place the gaps should be placed at on the pistons. I always just spiral the rings on the pistons. Take it slow and easy & when you get close to the end of the ring you have to pull out just a little to get the end of the ring to go down over the piston. Just dont force it if it feels like anything is binding. Jess

Author:	argentina-slantsixer [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:00 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: You should check the gap, stick the ring down in the cylinder it is going to be run in & us the piston to push it until its stright before checking the gap. The ring pack should have a diagram that shows what place the gaps should be placed at on the pistons. I always just spiral the rings on the pistons. Take it slow and easy & when you get close to the end of the ring you have to pull out just a little to get the end of the ring to go down over the piston. Just dont force it if it feels like anything is binding. Jess I spiral them too. Getting the ringed piston down the bore is a piece of cake, with or without a ring compressor. I used a wooden mallet back then, now I just have a delrin fetish so I used a delrin hammer last time I assembled a motor.

Author:	LUCKY13 [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:27 pm ]
Post subject:
[/quote] I spiral them too. Getting the ringed piston down the bore is a piece of cake, with or without a ring compressor. I use a wooden mallet back then, now I just have a delrin fetish so I usd a delrin hammer last time I assembled a motor.[/quote] Yes, you are referring to putting the piston & rings in as a assy when installing for the build. What I am talking about is just stick the ring by itself in the bore & using the piston to square it up for checking the rings gap with the ring in the bore. Its all good though Jess

Author:	argentina-slantsixer [ Thu Nov 29, 2007 2:25 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Yes, you are referring to putting the piston & rings in as a assy when installing for the build. What I am talking about is just stick the ring by itself in the bore & using the piston to square it up for checking the rings gap with the ring in the bore. Its all good though Jess what I mean is: Quote: I spiral them too. (big pause, grab a coke and a beef sandwich or two) (after getting all the pistons ringed and assembling the con rods) Getting the ringed piston down the bore is a piece of cake, with or without a ring compressor. I use a wooden mallet back then, now I just have a delrin fetish so I usd a delrin hammer last time I assembled a motor. Now, that's more understandable, ain't?

Author:	stolan83 [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:08 pm ]
Post subject:
just check my end gap it is set at .003, my manual say I should be at .010 to .020. Should I open them up? This pistions where build to run at 10:1 does that make a difference? One other thing correct me if I am wrong the chrome ring is the top ring then the iron ring right?

Author:	Dart270 [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:16 pm ]
Post subject:
You definitely need to open them up. Look in the factory manual for the gap, but I think you will want at least 0.016" end gap for that application. I just set mine at 0.020-0.022". I am almost positive the chrome ring is the top ring, but it should say in your ring pack instructions. Lou

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Author:	dakight [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:31 pm ]
Post subject:
The end gap is important because as the rings heat up they expand, closing the gap. If the gap is too small the ends will meet which can lead to broken rings, broken pistons and cylinder damage. If the gap is too large you will get excessive blow-by and low compression. I would keep them in the upper half of the factory recommended range.