When I start the engine , it will fire as I release the switch from the crank position. I also discovered the feed voltage stud on the switched fuse block was a little loose. I suspect this might have something to do with the miss at certain warm up temps temps.

To be honest, if I knew what to buy, and how to wire it, I would replace the starter switch with a push button, and turn everything on with a toggle actuated relay. I also intend to buy high quality toggel switches to replace the cheap things I have in the dash now. They were bought at Pep Boys for $20 and I can tell they are unreliable as the LED's don;t always light, but then come back on later, indicating inconsistent contacts inside. Are there recommendations out there? You can see what happened when I was left to my own resources.

Once again, I feel like a real breakthrough has been achieved here. It is important to remember that these old electical parts are often on the verge of failure. Replacing them with new is a good investment indeed. What's funny is I have been preaching this myself for years.

Sam

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Sam, sorry I've been delinquent in getting those relay p/ns to you.

But if the ignition switch is flaky, would replacing it with a new stock-type switch not be easiest...? It sounds like the trouble isn't in the contacts that feed the starter circuit, but in the contacts that feed the ignition/run circuits.

All that said, I wish I'd thought to advise you earlier to try switching the ignition "on", then getting out and actuating the starter by jumping the two big terminals on the starter relay.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It would be easiest to simply replace the stock switch, but there are other concerns that I m addressing with the toggles. Plus, I just t hink I will get less voltage loss through a relay ultimately. It seems I have created an endless loop somehow when wiring the ECU that will not shut itself down when I turn off the key. There is enough feedback from somewhere that keeps the relay for the ECU closed, and the car will not shut down. I don;t know where it comes from, but the simplest thing was to wire the ECU with a toggle. Since that is needed to shut the engine off, it could also be used to turn the entire switched circuit on. Anyway, I have never done things the easiest way. No apologies needed. I have been too busy to use the info up until now anyway.

Sam

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1960s Mopar ignition switches weren't meant for EFI, and so have no continuously on terminal that's hot in both "run" and "crank". I dealt with that on my Dart by running a capacitor across the main relay so it would stay closed when the key turned.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Why have I not seen this on either of my Darts? I don't recall any of the wiring scheme being fishy.

Actually, the lights and ignition stay on during cranking, so what you say doesn't make sense, Matt. Oh, I think you mean that there's a break between crank and run positions, but that should still be OK with the tiny amt of time that break is happening.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It is a very tiny amount of break, but enough that I'd see a short ECU reset. It may vary from car to car and switch to switch.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

My 69 Dart ignition switch used to do that. If it wasnt positioned correctly you got nought. The start worked fine but run was fussy.


Just try to steal my car...even ith the key.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I found a 70 amp automotive relay at a local truck supply store. Of course the goof ball kid working there told me no, they did not have either the relay, or the socket for it. I took their catalogue and looked for it myself, and both were on the shelf. Boy I am sounding like an Old F**t. ("What's this world coming to?")

Anyway, as soon as I get a chance, I am going to wire this up so that a toggle connects all switched 12 v fuses to the Batt via this relay. Weather has been miserable here, and I have been too busy to work on it. But I think this should make everything better.

This store has a modular fuse holder system where you gang the sockets together one after the other. I need to find a source of Tyco connectors which snap into the sockets from below.

Sam

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