The subject pretty much says it. Are all 8.75" center sections interchangeable with 8.75" housings? While talking to another member about the Ford 8.8" swap, he mentioned having a C-body housing for sale at a good price. It's just the housing, so I'd still need to buy a center section and A-body axle shafts (among shortening the housing and obtaining other parts, obviously). I'm not in a huge hurry to upgrade the 8.25" SG axle I have, so I'm cool with taking the time to piece together an 8.75" axle so I can keep it all Mopar.

3.55 gears and a Truetrac and I'll be a happy camper...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

IIRC, all the center sections will interchange between housings. The '64 and earlier housings did use the tapred/keyed axle shafts though.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Yeah I'm hoping the housing is a '65-up one. I'll have to ask him though.

anyone know if the pinion angle will have to be changed on the housing, or if the stock C-body angle will work on an A-body with a mild 225 and 4-spd?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Pinion angle should be fine. If not there are shims for adjusting. Make sure the housing is for '65 and newer as you can't put the later bearings in the earlier housing. I paid $100 for a complete '67 C-body 8 3/4 2-3 years ago. It came with a 2.94 geared 3rd member. Also, you don't really want to use A-body axles as that sticks you with the small bolt pattern. Over on the Moparts Tech pages there is quite abit of axle info including which ones can be cut down to convert a small bolt pattern A-body to big bolt pattern. Dutchman Motorsports in Portland gets about $330 to narrow a housing and shorten/respline axles.

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Joshua

Already considered that Looking on eBay I saw that Yukon makes LBP A-body shafts. I think I saw Moser shafts with LBP a while back too, but I can't remember for sure. Failing that, I saw that I can have a pair of B-body shafts shortened, but from what I can tell, not C-body shafts since they have the taper right where the A-body shafts would be splined.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

You can cut C, E, and van/truck axles, but not B. Been there, done that.

You will need LBP brakes too. The offset on the end of the axle is different and SBP brakes will not work.

Moser will make LBP axles with the SBP brake offset. They can redrill your drums too.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

No kiddin, huh? Well good thing I mentioned it then, or else I would've tried to get B-body axles if I couldn't find LPB A-body ones.

As far as the brakes, wouldn't any stock LPB brakes work with the LPB shafts? My 8.25" axle has LPB 10" drums, so I figured when I assemble the whole thing, I would just cross reference the part #'s and set up the 8.75" with the same brakes my 8.25" has.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

They should. I used the LBP brakes off the original 7-1/4" in my Duster on the 8-3/4" that went in.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The Yukon axles for the A-body 8 3/4 are not long enough to use with the original tapered axle bearings. You have to use Green bearings with the Yukon axles. Late C-bodies and D100 pickups are the axle donors to look for.

Yes, 10x2.5" brakes from a 7 1/4 or 8 1/4 will fit the 8 3/4. Be aware that if you use a stock dimension A-body 8 3/4 housing with the wider brakes and axles that overall drum-to-drum width is about 3/4-1" wider. I had rubbing in the back on my '66 Dart with an 8 3/4 and cut down C-body axles so I have a pair of cop car wheels with an extra 1/2" backspacing. This usually isn't a problem for a Duster, but is for cars with narrower back sides.

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Joshua

I don't mind a wide rear end as long as it don't rub!

Okay so I'll forget about the Yukon axles. I definitely don't want to use Green bearings, since this will be a street-only car. Maybe I'll do a pass or two at a track after it's all restored, several years down the road...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

3/4-1" wider would be perfect for a Duster and shouldn't cause any rubbing. A stock A body rear looks too narrow under a Duster. I swapped in a 8.75 rear from a 66 cuda and I can't wait to switch to LBP to gain the extra width.

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There are 3 things that will live forever, cockroaches, Keith Richards, and Slant Six Dusters !!!

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