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| 7.25 axle removal/gear change https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27591 |
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| Author: | daddanjer [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 7.25 axle removal/gear change |
Hi everyone, I need some advice on removing axles. The rear is a 1966 7.25 in a Dart with /6. I have read the service manual and checked articles and all have told me the axles just pull out. There are no C clips just remove backing plates and use a puller. I can not budge them. Are there any tricks to this or is there something else holding axles in place? My 2nd question is once I have axles removed is it very difficult to swap gears? I have a new set of 3.77 gears I would like to install. Thanks for any advice. This is our first build and we, my 12 yr old and I, would like to do most if not all work on car. Thanks, Ed & Jeremy |
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| Author: | bmimken [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Maybe someone else can help other than me...I thought you had to remove C-clips on the 7.25 axles. At least that's what my 75 factory service manual says... Brian |
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| Author: | dakight [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
In 66 there were no C-clips. The axle was held in by the bearing retainer and the interference fit of the bearing on the axle. To remove it you remove the nuts from the bearing retainer plate and slide the axle out. Sometimes moisture and dirt finds its way into the end of the axle tube causing rust to build up between the bearing outer race and the axle tube. Those can be a bear to get out. The best method is a slide hammer puller. The foot of the puller is attached to the axle flange by 3 of the lug bolts then the slide hammer is moved sharply outward to drive the axle out. Soak it good with penetrant ( PB Blaster or similar, not WD40 ) then go at it. It should break loose and slide out eventually. Once out, it should go without saying, that you will want to clean the axle tube thoroughly and put a light coating of grease in the end of the tube to prevent future corrosion and seizure. |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can also bolt a length of chain to one of the wheel studs......and fasten the other end of the chain to an axe, sledge hammer, old flywheel or anything else with mass..... Slack chain.......swing axe. Repeat as necessary. Careful....you can haul the car right off the jackstands. Make sure to have plenty of space in case the danm thing actually comes off. |
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| Author: | daddanjer [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hi everyone, Thanks for tips. We will give it another shot. Does anyone know procedure to change out gears? I'm getting conflicting info. Some in my area say I need special tools to change out while others have said its no big deal just remove old set and install new. After installing use white grease, rotate assembly and make sure teeth are getting equal coating. Any advice. Thanks everyone you always have been the best in advice to us. We appreciate your time and help. Ed & Jeremy |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can change gears in a 66 7.25 without special tools....well except the axe. Try some searching...I remember a couple of good threads. |
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| Author: | Doc [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Setting gears in a rear end is somewhat complex. Correct "mesh" (gear tooth loading) is the key to long gear life and noise-free operation. Sometimes you can take a good used gear set, install it into a different housing, using the shims from that housing, and have the mesh come-out OK. Other times, the mesh will be way off and you need to be skilled enough to see the poor contact pattern, interpute it and change the shimming to correct the problem. So do some additional reading and see if you want to give it a try. If you have any question about the correctness of the gear mesh load pattern, take it to a qualified mechanic for a "double check" before running the unit. DD |
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| Author: | daddanjer [ Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hi everyone, Thanks for all the input and advice. As always it is much appreciated. Ed & Jeremy |
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| Author: | 66aCUDA [ Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:10 am ] |
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Dadanjer Please keep us posted as others(me) are getting ready to do the same thing. Thanks Frank |
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| Author: | daddanjer [ Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hi everyone, Well all I can say is I tried. I used all methods advised and still cannot get axles to come out. Yes I even used the axe method with a sledge. Sheeeeeeesh! I'm sure this is the original rearend. I checked very closley inside pumpkin to see if there were any clips. None. I guess I will have to take in to get removed. Sorry I can't give update to help out. I wish good luck to all with their swaps. Thanks for all of the tips. Ed & Jeremy |
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| Author: | Doc [ Fri Mar 07, 2008 8:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you have an extra set of backing plates.... it is time to get "mean".  Make sure all the nuts are removed from the axle bearing retaining plate(s) and take some hard slug hammer swings to the back of the backing plate(s). The cocking action can pop the axle / bearing out, the same action can also bend the backing plate. DD |
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