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Forum locked  This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 8 posts ] 
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 Post subject: head gasket
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2001 5:11 am 
After doing some testing last nite the boost shoot up to 15lbs and now I have water in the oil. So what would be a good head gasket to get that would be stronger?

andrew wagner

mrdartgt@earthlink.net


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2001 8:25 am 
Quote:
: After doing some testing last nite the boost
: shoot up to 15lbs and now I have water in
: the oil. So what would be a good head gasket
: to get that would be stronger?
: andrew wagner


Wow 15 lbs, through an intercooler, this thing is going to rock. (errr, what type of pistons are in this engine?? ;-0

There are 3 types of gaskets available for the SL6:
1) The basic composite, metal core with a fiber skin. There are a few different types. All are .040 to .050 thick. The "cheap" ones (without any "slick / glossy" coatings) seem to seal the best but are a real pain to clean-off surfaces during tear-downs.

2) The stamped steel shim gasket was the standard deal from the factory for many years. These are .020 thick and work well on freashly machined surfaces. I find that using a shim gasket along with a light coat of sealer (Copper-Coat or Hylomar) on a resurfaced block / head makes a great seal.

3) Copper Head Gasket with an "O"-ringed block. This is what you should do but do it during your next engine re-build. A "dead-soft" copper gasket combined with copper wire "O"-rings will hold the super high cylinder pressure of a blower or turbo.

Are you currently running head studs??
DD


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2001 9:08 am 
The engine is stock with who knows how many miles on it. The 15 lbs of boost was now what I was going for, but I am having trouble regulating the boost with this turbo. It just wants to shoot up and the waste gate spring to to strong or just old. I want to run about 7 or 8 and slowly increase from there. I just want too take the stock /6 as far as it will go which is about mid 14s (hopfully)

andrew wagner
Quote:
:
: Wow 15 lbs, through an intercooler, this thing
: is going to rock. (errr, what type of
: pistons are in this engine?? ;-0
:
: There are 3 types of gaskets available for the
: SL6: 1) The basic composite, metal core with
: a fiber skin. There are a few different
: types. All are .040 to .050 thick. The
: "cheap" ones (without any
: "slick / glossy" coatings) seem to
: seal the best but are a real pain to
: clean-off surfaces during tear-downs.
:
: 2) The stamped steel shim gasket was the
: standard deal from the factory for many
: years. These are .020 thick and work well on
: freashly machined surfaces. I find that
: using a shim gasket along with a light coat
: of sealer (Copper-Coat or Hylomar) on a
: resurfaced block / head makes a great seal.
:
: 3) Copper Head Gasket with an
: "O"-ringed block. This is what you
: should do but do it during your next engine
: re-build. A "dead-soft" copper
: gasket combined with copper wire
: "O"-rings will hold the super high
: cylinder pressure of a blower or turbo.
:
: Are you currently running head studs??
: DD



mrdartgt@earthlink.net


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2001 9:21 am 
Quote:
: Wow 15 lbs, through an intercooler, this thing
: is going to rock. (errr, what type of
: pistons are in this engine?? ;-0
:
: There are 3 types of gaskets available for the
: SL6: 1) The basic composite, metal core with
: a fiber skin. There are a few different
: types. All are .040 to .050 thick. The
: "cheap" ones (without any
: "slick / glossy" coatings) seem to
: seal the best but are a real pain to
: clean-off surfaces during tear-downs.
:
: 2) The stamped steel shim gasket was the
: standard deal from the factory for many
: years. These are .020 thick and work well on
: freashly machined surfaces. I find that
: using a shim gasket along with a light coat
: of sealer (Copper-Coat or Hylomar) on a
: resurfaced block / head makes a great seal.
:
: 3) Copper Head Gasket with an
: "O"-ringed block. This is what you
: should do but do it during your next engine
: re-build. A "dead-soft" copper
: gasket combined with copper wire
: "O"-rings will hold the super high
: cylinder pressure of a blower or turbo.
:
: Are you currently running head studs??
: DD


Doug Can you still by the stamped steel head gaskets? Some one said they were discontinued? How much could you over bore the engine with this gasket?

damuel@kalama.com


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2001 10:03 am 
Quote:
: Doug Can you still by the stamped steel head
: gaskets? Some one said they were
: discontinued? How much could you over bore
: the engine with this gasket?


You are right Dave, the shim steel gasket is no longer offered OTS from the manufacturers. I have good success finding them in the "secondary market" so it take more work then a trip to Auto Zone. These are out there, even a Stainless Steel version used for marine applications.
DD


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2001 1:21 pm 
I read a post on the other slant forum about the newer Fel-Pro gaskets missing a whole for the water passage on heads. He says its in the center of the block between pistons 3&4. He says to use the block as a template and drill a whole. He got the tip from /6 news. Do you know of this causing problems? I happened to have a fel-pro gasket and that might explain some unecessary overheating. Or is that whole supposed to be plugged. Boy will I be postal if I have to take the head off and fix that problem.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2001 1:24 pm 
I was typing out of curious rage, thinking if that bloody gasket is causing the problem I will have at it with the parts store for not telling me, or maybe raise a fuss to fel-pro.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2001 2:21 pm 
Quote:
: I was typing out of curious rage, thinking if
: that bloody gasket is causing the problem I
: will have at it with the parts store for not
: telling me, or maybe raise a fuss to
: fel-pro.


The front and the center "core holes" are typically covered by the head gasket.
If you are having an overheating problem, it is most likely caused by something else.
DD


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