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| Removing cam https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27934 |
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| Author: | WyldeBill6 [ Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Removing cam |
OK, I'm stumped. I'm trying to remove my stock cam, and according to the FSM, you just remove the fuel pump and then pull the cam out. Mine is hitting the gear for the oil pump. I can't find anything in the book on how to remocve the oil pump either. I've removed the four bolts that are on the pump body, and even removed the five bolts on the cover and removed the gear, but the gear won't come out. Is there a trick to it, or do I just need to work at getting the body to release from the block with a little more persuasion? I don't want to beat on it and break something. Please help me out if you can. Thanks, Wylde Bill |
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| Author: | walpolla [ Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
hello, well I do'nt know what the FSM says,but if you think about it,there are 3 items driven by the camshaft.the fuel and oil pumps and the distributor. I always remove these when doing a cam. and of course all 12 lifters. it seems to me essential to take all 3 driven items off first.  regards,Rod 
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 5:28 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Are you using the "Genuine" Factory service manual, or something like a "Haynes" manual? Sounds like a aftermarket manual, which is giving you incomplete info. Remove the fuel pump, the complete oil pump ( 5 or 6 bolts depending on the year and factory or replacement pump), distributor, and all lifters. After the bolts are removed from the oil pump, it might be neccessay to give it a "rap" with a plastic mallet, to break it loose from the block. |
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| Author: | rock [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | WyldeBill, also think of this when putting one back in |
WyldeBill, As your previous correspondents note, there are three driven entities and a set of lifters...if your manual doesn't get into them, it might be only good as a place to set bolts as you remove them. And congratulations! I think I remember you as being new to working on engines...if so cam swapping has a few more unforgiving perils than oil pump swapping, say, if you are new to mechanical work. At the least you may want to go to an engine shop and see it done or in progress of have them show you how to slide it in...because: You need to see the trick of putting long bolts or threaded rods in the bolt holes in the cam front where the big gear would be. You use the long bolts or rods as a handle to give you leverage and hold the cam as you maneuver the cam in through the bearings as nearly straight in as you can get. You can't go fast and you can't jam it in or you will clang against the bearings, possibly scarring them, or possibly knocking one loose. I assume you are reusing the bearings in place. If not, and you have never put cam bearings in, I don't think installing new cam bearings is one of the first mechanical tasks you would want to try. It is well worth seeing it done once and it takes a tool to do it correctly. NOT to discourage you...we all had to do it the first time once and it is very doable. But for me, I sure wouldn't want to try it on the strength of a manual that seems to have left out the most basic stuff about taking it out. rock '64d100 |
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| Author: | WyldeBill6 [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 11:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | Original 1963 Dodge FSM |
I have an original FSM from dodge that I bought online. I actually found the section on removing the oil pump, but in the section on removing the cam, it says to just remove the fuel pump. The motor is out of the car and everything is off the motor but the cam, crank & pistons. I guess I just need to tap on the pump until it breaks loose. It's probably never been off since new and the old gasket doesn't want to let go. This isn't my first engine build, just my first Slant 6 build. I rebuilt a 454 big block about 15 years ago, plus too many other repairs to count. One thing about growing up broke. You learn to work on your vehicle or it doesn't run. Thanks all, Wylde Bill |
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