Slant Six Forum :: Dist recurve, egr remove

yes even the egr side, if the diaphram is torn you will get a vacuum leak. bybass the valve on the firewall goin to your dist too.
distributor recurving consists of adjusting/chaning out the springs to adjust your mechanical advance depending on what you are goin for... mileage or performance. so you will need a timming light.

How do I recurve it. My car is a 1974 225, Dart, original ignition. Would switching to the HEI as seen in another post help also. Just want a nice driver with relatively good mileage.

Is the '74 distributor a bad year and what would be a better replacement?

Michaels,

Quote:

How do I recurve it. My car is a 1974 225, Dart, original ignition. Would switching to the HEI as seen in another post help also. Just want a nice driver with relatively good mileage.

What kind of mileage are you getting now?

After recurving the distributor I can run at 16 degrees initial which is where I get the best mileage and power. Read Doctor Dodges article on doing a distributor recurve and setting up the vacuum advance. Once the EGR is gone and the distributor line is going directly to the carb you can run alot more advance and get allot of pep out of the engine.

Here is my set up.
I purchased a new electronic distributor and re-curved it with a red primary spring and extra long looped secondary spring from a 400 big block distributor. Using the stock 15R governor (long slots) with a 11R V8 vacuum advance screwed in 4 turns. (VC-208 can $10.26 at www.rockauto.com) Blue Streak cap, MO-3000 Echlin rotor, Chrome Blaster 2 coil and 8mm Blue Summit wires. Timing set at 16 degrees initial, 16 degrees mechanical for 32 degrees plus another 20 degrees with the vacuum advance for a 52 degree total. Using MOPAR's Orange ECU.

Make an EGR block off plate or get one from the dealer. #3671447 lists for $5 Dealer item, p/n 3671 447, used with standard EGR valve gasket p/n 4173 167. Mine cost less than $8.00 with tax.

These are very cheap mods and really help the performance.

Add a 2 1/4" exhaust and a free flowing muffler and the SL6 really gets up and goes.

Jopapa,

Yes, I used the factory weights that came in the distributor.

I also cleaned out all the lithium grease that was in the distributor and used synthetic oil instead and on two spots between the plates a little synthetic grease. The 20-50 oil is much faster responding and seems to stay in place just fine. I was afraid it would spin or wick out. But after checking it from time to time over the past two years there is plenty of oil on the friction points.

The results are a super lightening fast response when I hit the throttle, the advance is quick and immediate. No lag time like before.

Author:	MichaelS [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 2:47 pm ]
Post subject:	Dist recurve, egr remove
Ok, If I remove the EGR what would need to be done to the distributor? How do I recurve it. My car is a 1974 225, Dart, original ignition. Would switching to the HEI as seen in another post help also. Just want a nice driver with relatively good mileage. Thanks.

Author:	dank10fenny [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 4:06 pm ]
Post subject:
well if your goin for preformance then youll want to go for the hei. it can improve gas mileage as well. depending on the vacuum routing for the egr removal.... i would follow the vacuum line. remove it, and cap both ends, yes even the egr side, if the diaphram is torn you will get a vacuum leak. bybass the valve on the firewall goin to your dist too. distributor recurving consists of adjusting/chaning out the springs to adjust your mechanical advance depending on what you are goin for... mileage or performance. so you will need a timming light.

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 5:49 pm ]
Post subject:	What????
Quote: yes even the egr side, if the diaphram is torn you will get a vacuum leak. bybass the valve on the firewall goin to your dist too. distributor recurving consists of adjusting/chaning out the springs to adjust your mechanical advance depending on what you are goin for... mileage or performance. so you will need a timming light. Just get a new EGR gasket, and flip the EGR 180 degrees... it plugs it nicely... The 1974 OSAC valve is attached to the aircleaner and can be 'bypassed'... For a 1974 Distributor, without the aid of being able to weld the governor slots shut to tighten the advance you can start here: Get engine to TDC in #1 cylinder (remove spark plug and coil wire to distributor, remove distributor cap noting position of #1 plug wire, have buddy manually roll the crank over, put finger over plug hole, when the rotor in the distributor is on the #1 position and your finger stops getting forced off the plug hole by the cylinder pressure, note the position on your timing tab it should be on the '0' if it was set to the standard specs for 1974...), next roll engine back to halfway between the 0 and 10 mark on the tab (passenger side of the timing tab...).... Button it back up and see if your performance improves, and you get no ping... after that you'll need to get the dial back timing light out and see where it lands with and without vacc. advance... sadly all the 1974 distributors pretty much land in the 28-35 degrees of advance at normal street/highway useage, using the vacc. advance can... -D.Idiot

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:46 pm ]
Post subject:
Michaels, Quote: How do I recurve it. My car is a 1974 225, Dart, original ignition. Would switching to the HEI as seen in another post help also. Just want a nice driver with relatively good mileage. What kind of mileage are you getting now? After recurving the distributor I can run at 16 degrees initial which is where I get the best mileage and power. Read Doctor Dodges article on doing a distributor recurve and setting up the vacuum advance. Once the EGR is gone and the distributor line is going directly to the carb you can run alot more advance and get allot of pep out of the engine. Here is my set up. I purchased a new electronic distributor and re-curved it with a red primary spring and extra long looped secondary spring from a 400 big block distributor. Using the stock 15R governor (long slots) with a 11R V8 vacuum advance screwed in 4 turns. (VC-208 can $10.26 at www.rockauto.com) Blue Streak cap, MO-3000 Echlin rotor, Chrome Blaster 2 coil and 8mm Blue Summit wires. Timing set at 16 degrees initial, 16 degrees mechanical for 32 degrees plus another 20 degrees with the vacuum advance for a 52 degree total. Using MOPAR's Orange ECU. Make an EGR block off plate or get one from the dealer. #3671447 lists for $5 Dealer item, p/n 3671 447, used with standard EGR valve gasket p/n 4173 167. Mine cost less than $8.00 with tax. These are very cheap mods and really help the performance. Add a 2 1/4" exhaust and a free flowing muffler and the SL6 really gets up and goes.

Author:	MichaelS [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 8:40 pm ]
Post subject:
The car hasent been driven in a few years but the records show it getting 17-20 MPG, more 17 than 20. Is the '74 distributor a bad year and what would be a better replacement?

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Dist recurve, egr remove https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27946	Page 1 of 1

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:03 pm ]
Post subject:	Couple things...
Quote: Is the '74 distributor a bad year and what would be a better replacement? The 1976+ is a better style, for a car with the super six the 1978 'Super Six' distributor (3874876) is the best choice in 'economy' curves with the possibilty to recurve for power later... The 1974 makes a good 'bread and butter' curve, but there is still room for much improvement... Another thing to consider when you get around to it, is rebuilding the carburator, and during the process changing the main jet out for a slightly bigger one (1974's stock came with #58's and are bordering on 'surge' and lean at cruise... swapping to a #60 should also keep the mileage, but allow a bit more power along with the advance to make a bit more 'umph' for you...) -D.Idiot

Author:	Jopapa [ Fri Mar 21, 2008 5:34 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Michaels, Quote: How do I recurve it. My car is a 1974 225, Dart, original ignition. Would switching to the HEI as seen in another post help also. Just want a nice driver with relatively good mileage. What kind of mileage are you getting now? After recurving the distributor I can run at 16 degrees initial which is where I get the best mileage and power. Read Doctor Dodges article on doing a distributor recurve and setting up the vacuum advance. Once the EGR is gone and the distributor line is going directly to the carb you can run alot more advance and get allot of pep out of the engine. Here is my set up. I purchased a new electronic distributor and re-curved it with a red primary spring and extra long looped secondary spring from a 400 big block distributor. Using the stock 15R governor (long slots) with a 11R V8 vacuum advance screwed in 4 turns. (VC-208 can $10.26 at www.rockauto.com) Blue Streak cap, MO-3000 Echlin rotor, Chrome Blaster 2 coil and 8mm Blue Summit wires. Timing set at 16 degrees initial, 16 degrees mechanical for 32 degrees plus another 20 degrees with the vacuum advance for a 52 degree total. Using MOPAR's Orange ECU. Make an EGR block off plate or get one from the dealer. #3671447 lists for $5 Dealer item, p/n 3671 447, used with standard EGR valve gasket p/n 4173 167. Mine cost less than $8.00 with tax. These are very cheap mods and really help the performance. Add a 2 1/4" exhaust and a free flowing muffler and the SL6 really gets up and goes. Hey Ted, you used factory weights in your distributor didn't you?

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Fri Mar 21, 2008 12:03 pm ]
Post subject:
Jopapa, Yes, I used the factory weights that came in the distributor. I also cleaned out all the lithium grease that was in the distributor and used synthetic oil instead and on two spots between the plates a little synthetic grease. The 20-50 oil is much faster responding and seems to stay in place just fine. I was afraid it would spin or wick out. But after checking it from time to time over the past two years there is plenty of oil on the friction points. The results are a super lightening fast response when I hit the throttle, the advance is quick and immediate. No lag time like before.

Author:	Jopapa [ Fri Mar 21, 2008 12:21 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Jopapa, Yes, I used the factory weights that came in the distributor. I also cleaned out all the lithium grease that was in the distributor and used synthetic oil instead and on two spots between the plates a little synthetic grease. The 20-50 oil is much faster responding and seems to stay in place just fine. I was afraid it would spin or wick out. But after checking it from time to time over the past two years there is plenty of oil on the friction points. The results are a super lightening fast response when I hit the throttle, the advance is quick and immediate. No lag time like before. Good idea on the oil. I'll have to do that on mine too. It'll be nice to get that '66 engine installed with the Super Six and the A833. Once that's in I'll work on finding a good curve for my dizzy. I'll use your specs for a starting point as well. 'Nother question though: how are you finding where your total timing is landing?

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:54 pm ]
Post subject:
Jopapa, I have borrowed a dial back timing light from our local garage to verify. However, I followed Doctor Dodges and SL6 Dan's advise on a poor man's method. During the rebuild I rotated the crank forward from TDC and filed notches at 20 degrees and 30 degrees, etc. on the damper and pulley and marked them white. With the additional timing marks I can use a common timing light to verify the exact timing. Too bad the dampers didn't come that way from the factory

Author:	GupEBoy [ Fri May 02, 2008 11:24 pm ]
Post subject:
Is this a good idea to do with the 1bbl BBD carb setup? I removed all smog equipment. and still has factory ignition. Any recommendations? And should I do anything with jet in this carb as well? It does get u and go pretty well but it does smell a bit rich. I guess i shold work on tuning carb first. I have a new distributor from Auto Zone that I purchaces last summer. Maye I should learn on that. Also how can I get springs without getting to junk yard. Lastly, this engine has only 59k original miles for a 1980. I have heard about recurving but never delved into it. Jim

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Sat May 03, 2008 10:29 am ]
Post subject:
Jim, Your rebuilt engine looks great! Yes, you can do it with your rig too. Springs are hard to find for Mopars. You have to collect distributors from the junkyard to find them. You might want to pick up a 72-74 distributor to practice on, that way you can swap them and have a spare. I am not familiar with that carb. But I am sure it is jetted rich if it is stock for your van. Have you upgraded the ECU, plugs, wires and coil? What color are the spark plugs showing?

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