I have a 904 fitted with a reverse valve body. Presently there is no kick down linkage hooked up, and the car pounds into gear coming out of park, into "D" or "R".

A transmission shop told me I will most likely burn the 904 up if I drive it in its current condition due to the pressure being cranked up to the max. The transmission has to be manually shifted up through the gears, and will not automaticily shift if put in "D" which is now third gear.

My question is, can a kick down cable be used with the reverse valve body set up, or do I need to reconfigure back to factory specifications?

All I want to do with this car is cruse around, not race it.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

If "D" is third then you dont have a reverse manual VB. "1st" would be 3rd.

My Cheeta VB had no provisions for a kick down. Thats why i put it in there. I didnt want to be dealing with linkages while experimenting with carb and intake combo's.

I'ed find another 904 and have it rebuilt with a normal VB.

The reverse manual valve body work great with a ratchet shifter. The throttle pressure is set to full pressure all you have to do is let up on the throttle a little, shift and get back in it. I have been driving mine for 7 years and I love it
.

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YOU SNOOZE YOU LOSE

If it is slamming in gear when shifting from neutral or park you can either lower the idle speed if it is cranked up, or lower the line pressure in the trans. It should not slam into gear.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

In response to starting in D:
The shift quadrant has been reconfigured to (P R N 1 2 D) from factory (P R N D 2 1).
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Automatic transmissions are not my bailiwick. I just have not had one apart for a little hands on if you get my drift. This one is flanked by two exhaust pipes, and goofy mechanical linkage connecting the console shifter above. Hard to see and access some parts of this rigging with out a lift.

How dose one back off the line pressure? Is this something I can do, or is a professional needed?

I consulted the The Service Manual on line pressure setting, and it showed several illustrations measuring spring retainer & line pressure adjustment. And, a pressure test which I know I can't perform. Just where are these items located on the transmission. I suspect I can at a minimum set these measurements.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The factory specs and settings go out the window with an after market VB. I dont know how your gona get easy shifts out of a VB thats sole purpose in life is to make neck snapping shifts.

I couldnt GIVE away /6 904s. I just took my last one to the scrap place. Finding a good stock core should be easy. Have it rebuilt and swap it in. If money is tight then rebuild the core your self. A factory service manual, some time and a few basic tools is all you really need.

Ive pulled, rebuilt, and reinstalled many a torqflite with nothing but some good jack stands and a good jack with wheels on it. A lift is not needed.

A manual VB should not make it go into gear any harder than stock. It will make it shift harder though. Is the engine idling to high? Or have you checked the ujoints and rearend to make sure there is nothing going on there (bad ujoint, or slack in rear end).


The pressure could be set to high. The ajustments are inside the fluid pan on the side of the VB. You can call TCI ( they made that VB) and ask what kinda pressure your tranny should have with this VB installed.


The manual VB will not burn a trans up, infact it will make it last longer if it is working right. There should be no differnence than stock when going from park to drive/rev, but when you shift like from first to second or second to drive it will hit very hard. TO make it shift soft (or I should say softer) you just need to shift at a very low RPM.


If cruizing the car is all you want changing out to a stock VB may be best.



Jess

The car is not running at the moment, still a few wires to connect up before the inaugural smoke-off... and several other little projects half done before I can firer it up for a drive train viewing.

It is hard to tell by shaking a U joint if it is getting sloppy. However I did notice that the bushing in the tail shaft & splined shaft with the U joint on one end is showing some slop.

I suspect that this slop is one area causing most of the banging and thrashing when shifting D to R etc.

As for idle speed, I never got it warmed up enough for it to idle properly due an improperly adjusted choke not closing, it is now corrected.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC