This isn't my first slant build but it definitely has the most time, money and thought in it (thanks to this board) So now it's nearing fire up time and I'm wondering what I will miss. I read a few old posts on cold lash which was very unhelpful since everyone just gets all cranky (no pun) over the subject and says "do it hot". Well that will happen but for a fresh motor my thoughts were to go with the old method (roll it over by hand 1/3 at a time and set them at 12 and 22. Next for priming the oil system, do we just crank it over with plugs out for a few seconds to circulate oil to the top end? What else have I forgotten? Maybe I just had too much coffee and I'm starting to ramble.

Thanks in advance, Pat.

_________________

I would set them loose like that. I think cranking it a few times would be OK especially if you have coated everything with assembly lube.

The "debate" over whether to set the valve lash hot or cold is for an engine that has already been running. Of course you have to set them "close to spec but a little loose" cold before the first fire-up. Cranking with the plugs out for awhile will usually help speed oil delivery on first fire — did you pack the oil pump with vaseline? This greatly speeds oil delivery, too.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Just went through this yesterday.

It takes a bit before pump pressure comes up, plugs out.

It took mine four 30 second blasts on the starter to trip the switch. It didn't start flowing oil at the top end for a bit more. It then made up for lost time by putting oil all over the inner fender!

I ended up pulling the distributor after the cam run in to deal with the bottom advance plate adjustment. After that I could get enough timing in it to idle. That oil filter gets hot! Ow.

There's nothing so sweet as having a new mill fire for the first time! This one, like yours, was the most expensive Slant build I've done. Only the Alfa Romeo engine cost more. Due to the experimental nature of the build, I had the shop long block it. Next time it get's torn down, I'll put it back together. A warranty is nice!

When one of the rockers went loose on me, I thought I was going to have stained drawers! I shut it down and readjusted. All better. Apparently the pushrod wasn't seated in the lifter. Noisy!
With the Erson, spec is 15 and 15. Fopar and I adjusted it with my 14/16 go-no-go, and let 'er rip.
Cam run in oil was Dello 30 wt, with a bottle of Compcams break-in goop mixed in.

Take a deep breath and dive in there!

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Sounds like I'm on the right track then, I just had to check with my mentors. I hadn't heard the vaseline in the oil pump trick. I'll have to try that one. I assume you mean split the pump and pack the interior.

_________________

Yep! Just remove the pump cover and put vaseline in the cavities between the inner and outer rotors of the pump, then put the cover back on. The vaseline seals the metal surfaces to each other as the pump turns at slow (cranking) speed, improving the suction on the oil pickup pipe and speeding up the first oil prime. The vaseline melts as soon as the engine runs and mixes with the oil without problem.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Everything listed above is good info.
I pour 3 quarts of oil right into the crankcase, then pour about 1/3 of quart #4 into the dry oil filter and roll the filter around to wet the media.

Then a "dash" of quart #4 goes into the oil pump hole, leading up from the impeller assembly to the outer edge of the the filter to oil pump mounting flange, if you put vaseline into the impeller, this hole will fill quickly. Screw on your 1/3 full oil filter, work fast and little to no oil will come out when you flip the filter to install it.

The remains of quart #4 goes all over the rocker arms and valve springs, now crank the engine with-out the plugs, to get oilpressure.

Re-install the spark plugs and do your final "pre-start" checks.
When you are ready to start the engine, open quart #5 and pour a little additional oil onto the rocker arms, then start it. Use the remains of #5 to keep the rocker arms wet if you do not see oil at the top for a couple of minutes.
DD

Just did this to mine Saturday:

Poured as much oil down the pump as it would take. Poured rest of oil into engine. Turned over with plugs out until engine built pressure. Turned over again for a while to see if pressure stayed. My junk has 50 psi on the starter.

Valve lash I always set cold anyway. I just bump it over with a remote switch hooked to the starter relay. Ever see Allen Johnson set the valves on his P/S Hemi hot and running? Me neither. Good enough for him, good enough for me.

And yes, every time I put my turd back together I wonder if it is going to run or leak huge quantities of oil. Don't know if I will ever get over that.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

"First-fire nerves" happens to me everyday at 8am, but goes away once the valves have stopped chattering and it makes it past the first block under its own power:lol:

Tons of good info as usual. Everything is together and tomorrow I will do the swap. I may not light the fires until Wed. since I have to swap over a bunch of stuff from the old slant. I'll keep you all posted once that happens. On a side note, I've always gone with at least 20 minutes @ 2200 rpm for cam break-in and ring seal usually gets a few good low gear pulls down a long grade. Anyone else on this page?

_________________

20 minute cam break-in here too. Last time I put this thing together I seated the rings with a 100 shot on the first drive.

You may not want to do that though.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I always vary the engine speed during cam break-in as it moves the loading around on the lobes. Higher speeds load the opening flank more and the nose less.

_________________
Joshua

most motors you have the dizzy out and put a drill on the oil pump shaft and give it a spin till it squirts at ya. but on a slant i dont know. i know for my buddies 240 sylvia motor you have to fill a spray gun up wit oil and get it fasend to the oil pressure sender in some way and squirt away

_________________
'72 Valiant DD for over a decade-225-Disc brakes, big T-bars, big Sway bars f/r, carter bbd/super six, GM HEI, 2- 12" subs in trunk, 1000w amp...
'77 cherokee cheif widetrack-360-33x12.5 tires-no lift. keeps driveway dry-project/backup DD/mudder