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slant six/cam questions
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Author:  hamesdart [ Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:54 am ]
Post subject:  slant six/cam questions
ok, i have a 65 dart i just picked up and my buddy has a slant six and tranny i can have. Im not very confident about the motor though.
I know it was rebuilt then decked and such and had a cam put in it.
But then when he ran in it his car it kept overheating and blowing head gaskets.
I then just found another slant six for $50 bucks :P complete with only 10,000 miles on the full rebuild.
So i was thinking since this is going to be a simple daily driver and lowww lowww budget (ex. rattle can primer for paint) i was just thinking i can put a good duel exhaust exit maniford,valve cover, duel carb set-up and take the cam out of the first slant six and put it in the new one.
Anything else have to be done for the cam swap???
springs...anything else in valvetrain?
I know people like to mill the deck but i dont want to put too much money into this motor since its just my get -a-round daily driver.


Im trying to save all my money for my 69 440hp dart :lol:
Author:  runvs_826 [ Fri Apr 11, 2008 3:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well, to start you off welcome to the board. Second, this is only MY opinion, but I do have some expirence building slant and I would rearrange my priorties for you engine, those might be good things to do on a big block, but kinda useless on a slant.
First off, dual exhaust is going to be useless unless you get some Dutra's or headers. Like another thread metioned, the headers only amplify what the engine is already doing. Next, multiple carbs are a pain the butt, and if you go on summit your going to pay $40 more for a chance at putting less cfm to your engine. I can't remember what the one barrel's run but there not anything to impressive. So time for the amatuer's opinion which hopefully some of the big shots can agree/disagree with.
SEARCH. Search for some of the tune-up stuff. Re-curving, ignition, and valve lash adjustments will be your friend on an econo build. Next, do you know the specs of cam A? If not take a core to a cam grinder and get a 270dur .44-.48 lift for the $100 they charge people.
FORGET the bling. The "nice" valve cover is probably the least of your worries if it is truly a fresh rebuild. The paint should still be sticking and matching the rest of the engine. Which gives you money to pay the $60 to get your head milled. PLEASE, don't skimp on this part if you want any type of performance most slants have somewhere between 7-8.5:1 compression and milling the head .1 will bump it up to 9.x:1 with the rebuilt pistons should help consistancy.
Ok, last... intake. Depending on your budget you got two options really that would be better than the almighty expensive dual one barrel intake. You got you super six and your four barrel offy. If you've stuck with this game plan I would find a way to spring for the four barrel. If you've stuck more with yours or skipped steps metioned above, I would save the money and round up the Super six from somewhere. So, I hope this helps and don't feel like you need to do everything I say or your slant won't run. I've just been around for a little while and this is the game plan most lower budget slants follow with great sucess. Most wouldn't take the time and tell you to search the archives as this question has been answered many times, so still search through for ideas but I hope this helps you make a game plan. Also, this might've sounded like a lot but can be done for $800, which is equivalent if not cheaper than the original game plan.
Author:  LUCKY13 [ Fri Apr 11, 2008 5:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Do you know much about the size of the camshaft ? I cant really see why a cam woudl causing overheating unless they installed it wrong somehow.



When you take the cam from the other engine you need to keep each lifter so that you can reinstall it back on the cam in same possition (cam lobe). The lifter and camshaft make a wear pattern on each other and need to be keep together.



There may be valve springs that was installed on the head, if this is so then you need to get the springs,retainers,keepers and install them on your head. You also may want to check and see if they might have different push rods in the engine ( lenth or design difference) that may be good for your build.

You need to find out what camshaft this is so you do know what spring and valve lash to use with it. Most of the time the camshafts need degreed in and you need to find the specs for the cam to do this. Alot of the time this can be the defferance between a cam causing a engine to run bad, or making extra power.



Having the head milled .100 off the deck always helps these little engines. You just need to make sure that you have enough valve clearance between the pistons and valves if this is a big came. MOst of the time its no where close to this being a problem with the slant but still you should check it.


Nothing wrong with the duel carb setup. I guess you may have two one barrel carbs already so this would only leave you with getting the intake. These duel one barrel setups work very good on mild built slants and fuel distribution to each cylinder is better than most other intake setups. You really cant even make good use of a 4 barrel setup unless you start building a pretty strong engine and turning some RPM. The duel one barrel setup is really closer on air flow for what a mild slant needs. If yo build a stronger engine latter you can always put two 2 barrel carbs on the intake and keep using it.


I like headers over a duel exit manifolds myself and the cost is about the same (but still more). With the duel one barrel intake the longer headers will work best ( Hooker Super comps would be nice, but pricy) . The clifford shorty headers would work if your camshaft is for atleast around 6000 RPM peak HP or higher. One thing I have notice is with headers the engine tunes much easier and also seems to run a lot cooler under the hood. I have also notice the exhuast notes are much quiter if the collector lenth is set right, which in turn gains torque in the lower RPM range also in a way that can not be achived with manifolds. With such a little engine all the power you can gain is worth the effort. When chosing exhaust the extra power is not so much from extra flow as it is from the tuning it does to the engine. The extra flow helps when the system is restricted like the factory setup on a slant, but there is more power to be had by taking it a little farther.



Jess
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:13 pm ]
Post subject:  safety factor...
Quote:
Anything else have to be done for the cam swap???
Just in case there's some extra clearance in the cam bearings, you might want to do a search and look at installing a 'cam' button in your timing cover to keep it from walking... it'd be cheap insurance...

-D.idiot
Author:  LUCKY13 [ Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
Also I forgot you was tryo save some bucks. On shaving the head deal, I feel its well worth this extra expeince. It will return you investment in fuel milage in a short amount of time. The slant is just to low on compression from the factory, although at a steady state it will only help some, but still help, ( like a highway trip) the intown fuel milage will benifit alot. The more you raise compression the better ( to about 10.5 to 1).



Jess
Author:  runvs_826 [ Sat Apr 12, 2008 8:48 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Lucky13 and DI for checking my work! All in all have fun with this slant build, like I said there is no wrong way and you don't have to follow anyone's build exactly. One thing though is sometimes (my opinion) it's easier to start from scratch than pick up pieces. Not know what your cam specs are will hurt you more than the $100 to get a new one.

Wes
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