Slant Six Forum :: SL6 rebuilding...price vs performance?

Biggest/best single improvement, for power, and economy, is to get the head milled, to bring the compression to an "honest" 9.0-9.5 to 1.

...Or should I just go ahead and find another cheap block and tranny from a later car and work with that? ...

Quote:

...Or should I just go ahead and find another cheap block and tranny from a later car and work with that? ...

That is a good way to do it.
Building a different engine "on the side" keeps your car running while you do the rebuild work. This gives you the extra time needed to do the measurements and planning needed to get a good working combination assembled.

Once you have a replacement engine ready to go, it is an easier job to swap the engine and to get the car running again.
DD

Charrlie_S >That's the info I'm looking for!! Any chance of getting a detailed buildup on that?

Looking for parts used how much of a head chop, etc.

Dave

Author:	HemiDave [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 6:45 am ]
Post subject:	SL6 rebuilding...price vs performance?
Hello everyone! I searched and went back several pages and didn't see a topic about rebuilding a relatively stock SL6. What is the best parts source? What is best for mild upgrades while it's apart? Headers and cost effectiveness for higher mpg? This will be a daily driver type of car, 68 Dart vert auto or 67 Cuda fastback 4sp o/d. Thanks! Dave

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:04 am ]
Post subject:	Well...
Rebuilding an engine isn't too expensive, if you do all the assembly... You can get a rebuild kit from Northern Auto Parts or Performance Automotive Warehouse with 'options' for about $400 or so... Machining can run another $5-800 depending on what is done (headwork/valves/seats, upping the compression)... Popping for an aftermarket camshaft is also a couple extra $$$ depending on which you choose... Because I do my own assembly a 225 is about $1200 parts+ machining... Depending on your area, headers may not get you MPG if the weather is cold a lot, your carb/intake may not warm up. -d.idiot

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:28 am ]
Post subject:
Biggest/best single improvement, for power, and economy, is to get the head milled, to bring the compression to an "honest" 9.0-9.5 to 1.

Author:	DannyBastard64V [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:32 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Biggest/best single improvement, for power, and economy, is to get the head milled, to bring the compression to an "honest" 9.0-9.5 to 1. Milled how much? I heard .005 is a good amount? And what about putting in a somewhat lumpier camshaft? Will that do much without any more machine work? Am I gonna have to put in an electronic/high flow fuel pump? I'm planning on taking my engine apart soon and rebuilding/machining/repainting the whole thing, including a supersix setup or a 4bbl if i have to, so any advice would be very helpful. I'm not looking for a monster, just some improvement so i don't have to fight traffic getting on the freeway. :0)

Author:	Doc [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:20 am ]
Post subject:
Did you read through this thread? http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ine+matrix DD

Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/

SL6 rebuilding...price vs performance? https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28633	Page 1 of 1

Author:	ceej [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:44 am ]
Post subject:
You need to cc the head first, and measure where your pistons sit in the bores. From there, you compute how much to take off to achieve your desired compression. In most cases, .005" isn't going to do anything other than clean the surface. The magic number tends to be around .100" Off, but you have to know where your starting from! There are wide variations from engine to engine. CJ

Author:	Doc [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:52 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: ...Or should I just go ahead and find another cheap block and tranny from a later car and work with that? ... That is a good way to do it. Building a different engine "on the side" keeps your car running while you do the rebuild work. This gives you the extra time needed to do the measurements and planning needed to get a good working combination assembled. Once you have a replacement engine ready to go, it is an easier job to swap the engine and to get the car running again. DD

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:52 am ]
Post subject:
MPGFanatic and I had real good results, with a totally street rebuild, in a 64 Valiant 3 on the tree. Bored and honed with a block plate, .060 stock sealed power pistons. Cut the deck to get the factory spec deck hight (170 engine, .005 deck). Cut the head to get the proper cc's to achieve 9.5 to 1 compression ( you need to measure, to determine the amount to mill) Used the MP 244 cam and kit, stock manifolds (intake and exhaust) Holley 1920 carb. Low restriction muffler, with a 2 1/4 pipe. Car can run the 1/4 in low 17's with a real sloppy shifter (I don't remember the rear gear). Car gets 27-28 mpg. 2 years and around 12,000 miles, and counting. The carb and timing has been tweeked with the use of a MPG computer and a O2 sensor. PS: remember to degree the cam. This one needed a 6 degree bushing.

Author:	HemiDave [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 6:50 pm ]
Post subject:
DannyB64 >Great thread..... Charrlie_S >That's the info I'm looking for!! Any chance of getting a detailed buildup on that? Looking for parts used how much of a head chop, etc. MPGFanatic c> feel free to add something to it!! Doc > Thanks for the link!! Thanks! Dave

Author:	DannyBastard64V [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:36 pm ]
Post subject:
FNG: Sorry to hijack your thread, but if you checked it as often as I do you might get some replies faster. And hey, people like me.

Author:	runvs_826 [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:27 pm ]
Post subject:
Price vs performance... All in all how crazy do you want to get and how much work YOU can do. I did my entire slant six from start to finsh on a 1000 budget. I assembled everything, and got a discount from my uncle's gary's shop cause he uses them so often. The big thing that helped that the engine was a "fresher" rebuild, so I didn't need to bore it or buy pistons. The price once again depends on how wild you want to get, if you adhere to what most guys have done on the matrix builds you can stay well within reason as it would cost for a completely stock assemebled long block from some engine rebuilder, but have 190hp to boot.

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Tue Apr 29, 2008 5:12 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Charrlie_S >That's the info I'm looking for!! Any chance of getting a detailed buildup on that? Looking for parts used how much of a head chop, etc. Dave That's pretty much the details (previous post). It was basically doing things to improve the effiency of the engine. The cylinders needed to be bored, and I had a set of .060 pistons in stock, that I got of e-bay for $20.00, almost any "normal" over size would work. Slant Cecil "rented" me his block plate, this allowed honing to get a better ring seal. Used "moly" rings. Crank was checked and polished. Then a couple of piston/rod assemblies were installed to check the deck hight. Block then went back to the machine shop to be decked ( each engine needs to be checked and the numbers will/might be different). Since we had decieded on installing a mild cam, and were going to be tweeking the distributer, we opted for an "honest" 9.5 to 1 compression ratio (you might want to consider a little less (9.0-9.2) with a stock cam). It is necessary to cc the head to determine how much to mill to achieve the ratio desired. One thing I would like to try on a slant built for milage, would be to do a valve job, with the valves angle at 30 degrees, instead of 45 degrees. I don't know if it would really work, but I would think it would help low lift/low speed air flow. I did it on a 360 motor years ago, and it seemed to help to MPG.

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