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Trying to start fresh motor
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28645
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Author:  WyldeBill6 [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:30 pm ]
Post subject:  Trying to start fresh motor

I'm trying to start my freshly rebuilt motor and it keeps backfiring through the carb. Am I 180deg out on my distributor? I think that's it. Please help me if you can.
Wylde Bill

Author:  Joshie225 [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:35 pm ]
Post subject: 

Most often the marks on a timing set line up with TDC firing of cylinder #6. If you line up the distributor with the engine in that position you will be 180° off.

Author:  WyldeBill6 [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:44 pm ]
Post subject:  That's what I did

I lined up the marks and set it at #1, so I must be 180 out.
Thanks,
Wylde Bill

Author:  WyldeBill6 [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:13 pm ]
Post subject:  She's alive

I turned the distributor 180, pumped the gas once, and she fired so quick it startled me. Only problem, it seems its leaking water out of a couple manifold studs. I guess I didn't get them tightened all the way. I'll have to go back and retighten all of them.At least she's running though.
Wylde Bill

Author:  slantfin [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:19 pm ]
Post subject: 

You may need to back the studs out and use a gasket sealer or lock-tite on them.

Author:  WyldeBill6 [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:31 pm ]
Post subject:  That's what I was thinking

I'm going to do that hopefully tomorrow. I guess I'll have to pull the manifolds to do it, or can I get away with just doing one at a time? I don't think I could get to the bottom ones though.
Wylde Bill

Author:  WyldeBill6 [ Tue Apr 29, 2008 6:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Pulled manifolds

Well, I pulled the manifolds today and pulle dall the studs out and put gasket sealer on them. the only problem is, as I was pulling one of them out, it slipped out of my fingers and right down the exhaust pipe. I don't know how I'm going to get it out. I got a 2' grabber, but it doesn't reach. I really dont want to leave it in there to rattle around. Any suggestions? My only other option is to cut the pipe and I really don't want to do that. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Wylde Bill

Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:06 pm ]
Post subject: 

It's gone. Let it go. Chances are you'll never hear it.

Author:  WyldeBill6 [ Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Manifold torque settings

My FSM says to torque the manifold nuts to 10foot lbs. That doesn't seem tight enough. I know the manifold has to expand, but is that what all of you usually torque yours to?
Wylde Bill

Author:  dank10fenny [ Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

or get a nice magnet...

Author:  volaredon [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:59 am ]
Post subject: 

:idea: turn the radio up; if that don't help, put a big amp in, and fill the trunk with subs! :twisted: :twisted:

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 7:05 am ]
Post subject:  Yep...

Quote:
I know the manifold has to expand, but is that what all of you usually torque yours to?
On the 'stack' 10-12 ft lbs is all you can get, any more and you can catch and crack a manifold since it cant' 'expand/slide'... if you have duals/ split manifolds you can tighten it up a bit more (like 20 ft lbs...)

-D.Idiot

Author:  WyldeBill6 [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Started her up today

She sounds good, but I can hear the stud in my exhaust pipe as clear as a bell. Right now it's directly under the drivers seat. Hopefully it will slide back to the Cherry Bomb and I won't hear it any more. Oh well. I still need to hot lash the valves, but it already sounds a million times stronger than it was before. I'm stoked.
Wylde Bill

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