Ok, '79 dodge b-100, holley 1945 (rebuilt), everything stock,except removed
egr valve, air pump. looking for better mileage,and better accelleration. with the vac. advance disconnected, timing is set at approx. 10 deg, no pinging.
would it be a good idea to get an adjustable vac. advance can and spring kit?
and also, what would you gurus recommend for the setup of the ignition system? Keeping in mind, this thing turns about 3100 rpm at 65mph. Thank you guys in "advance" (pun intended lol)

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"MOPAR or NOCAR!"

as far as ignition i would go the electronic gm hei. but in these ol things ever lil upgrade is a step to better economy, well usually

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'72 Valiant DD for over a decade-225-Disc brakes, big T-bars, big Sway bars f/r, carter bbd/super six, GM HEI, 2- 12" subs in trunk, 1000w amp...
'77 cherokee cheif widetrack-360-33x12.5 tires-no lift. keeps driveway dry-project/backup DD/mudder

Yeah, but still lugging around 4000-5000 lbs of van with a 1 barrel isn't helping much...
when you say this, does this mean when you disconnected everything you have 10 degrees of max advance? Does it mean you set the 'initial' advance with the distributor set at 10BTDC... then with your current 'stock' curve it doesn't ping... does it ping with the vacc. advance hooked up? Is most of your driving highway or in-town mileage? Is it an Automatic or 3 or 4 speed(overdrive?) manual tranny?

Do you have a vacc. gauge and a timing light? (these tools are necessary before you just go swapping springs...)


Trucks and vans don't follow the same formula as the car dizzy mix since they have a bit more to haul and need a bit of a slower advance curve....also they will need much less total advance (initial+mech+vacc...) to keep them from pinging under load in cruise/high gear conditions...

-D.Idiot

I adjusted everything per the sticker under the hood, idle speed, etc. so everything should be the way the factory stated. i'll re-check it and give you the exact settings. (been a while since i adjusted it, and i have a short memory.) But anyway, i have a timing light, (not a dial back type though), and a vacuum pump with a gauge. I'm a professional auto technician, so i know my way around cars, but not very experienced with /6's.
Ive already swapped the 2 piece intake (junk) for a 1 piece aluminum casting since it had cracks in the heat riser area (vacuum leak) and installed a rebuilt 1945 carb. (helped alot, i mist have got a good one..lol) So, i'll recheck the timing setting and get back to you guys. The van is a 3 spd auto, not sure of the gears, but the rear end has never been changed. (i know the previous owner, i am the second owner). The van runs ok, but has some hesitation pulling away from stoplights, but it sees primarily highway driving. Thanks guys.

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"MOPAR or NOCAR!"

Just sent you a PM with a reference to the Optimum cruise post.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thank you 'Ted!!

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"MOPAR or NOCAR!"

Does anyone have the MoPAR p/n's for the distributor springs to recurve for better performance/economy? This is in a '78 D100- 3 spd w Carter BBD. Thanks-Mike

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Good gun control is hitting your target repeatedly

for what it's worth. we have a 1985 Ram 100 fleet side short bed with 4 speed overdrive. 22 hwy on flat hwys @ 55 mph

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Mike,

You need to collect a few distributors since MOPAR quit selling them. 340's are good, 383 or 400's are good from 66 through 1972.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Mike,

You can find a lot more information on distributor recurve HERE,
HERE,
HERE,
and HERE
but there is precious little discussion about trucks. The process is the same but, I think, the numbers are different. I’d be interested in more truck-specific information also.

Danny

The biggest difference with a truck and van is you may want to slow down the rate of advance and possibly limit the total advance. They still need 30 degrees to get good torque, but you may not want them to have a 52 degree total.
My old van had medium heavy primary springs instead of medium light so the advance was slowed down but still ended up at 30 degrees. The vacuum advance can will have to be dialed back some, maybe 45 degrees max. I doubt that you would like running a 11R can, but possibly a 6.5R or 8.5R would keep it from pinging with a load depending if you have a hauler or sport truck.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks Ted