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| gas from throttle shaft https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29616 |
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| Author: | 00spy [ Fri Jun 20, 2008 4:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | gas from throttle shaft |
I finally put on my new holley 1920 today and tried to crank it up, it almost cranked and I stepped out to check the carb and it looked like there was gas leaking at the throttle shaft a little , what would cause this ? Thanks for any replies Dave |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 20, 2008 5:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The 1920 I sent you is brand new, with a nice tight throttle shaft fit in the carb body. Nevertheless, if there's enough liquid fuel (or carburetor cleaner, etc.) pouring onto the throttle shaft, in combination with low or no manifold vacuum as during cranking, or especially with positive manifold pressure (backfire), you can get liquid fuel dripping from this junction, even on a new carb. The shaft fit can't be so tight as to prevent this, or the shaft wouldn't be able to turn in the carb body. What do you mean when you say it "almost cranked"? Cranking is what happens when you turn the key to the "start" position and the starter operates. Do you mean it fired, but wouldn't quite stay running? What is the status and configuration of your choke? |
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| Author: | 00spy [ Fri Jun 20, 2008 5:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yeah I meant fired. Im not saying anything about the carb , just wanting to know if a too high float would cause this. I took it off , and it looks like it had excess fuel down the throat, got happy with gas pedal. I got the choke working good, and not binding Dave |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 20, 2008 6:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I didn't think you were disparaging the carb. If you're getting liquid fuel visible through the nozzles and vents, then the most likely culprit is a "new old" inlet needle and seat. Remember, even a never-used carburetor that's 25 years old...is 25 years old! You may want to throw a bowl gasket, inlet needle and seat at it and check the float adjustment and position of the float counterspring. |
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| Author: | 00spy [ Fri Jun 20, 2008 6:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I got a carb kit (hygrade) and replaced everything. I think I will drop the float a bit and try that. What is a good setting for the idle mixture to start with . Dave |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 20, 2008 6:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I usually start with about 2 turns out. Screw the mixture needle inward (Clockwise) completely but just lightly seat it, don't reef on it or try to tighten it down or you'll spoil the carburetor. Then back off 2 turns and that'll let the engine start up so you can warm it up and make final adjustments. |
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| Author: | 00spy [ Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:18 am ] |
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Ok I think my problem maybe the distributor. The engine cranks about 3 or 4 times and makes a little noise ,stops , and a little bit of gas flies up. I swapped out my distributor with an electric one. I made sure the rotor was in the same position as my old one . would that work , or do I need to set it by TDC. Dave |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You definitely need to time the distributor as precisely as you can. It is so easy to get this wrong even if you've done it a million times before, even if you're sure you put the new distributor right back where the old one was. I've run into your same situation (swap distributor, line up the rotor "the same", but the car won't start and it turns out I'm a tooth or two off in one direction or another). |
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