Hello guys,

As said in the title : I'm having a hell of a time to mate these two together...
I now know I certainly have a stripped thread in one of the T/C holes (due to my idiot self trying to screw when the screw wasn't straight...) but the other 3 are fine and I can't seem to screw more than one of them...

I know one of the holes is offset (in terms of angle right?) but I tried every possible combination and each time only one of the bolts will bolt...

I'm using a 67 trans with a 72-73 (not sure) engine. Is that a concern?

And also : when I received the engine, the flexplate was bent on one ear so I had to bend it back but it's probably not really flat anymore.

Pleaaaaaaaaaase heeeeeeeelp me!!!

I thought I was seeing the light but then again another problem!!!
I'm getting sick of it... oh well, that's life!

Marc

A few precisions :

My flexplate is actually not flat since some ears are really touching the T/C pads whereas some others have a 3-4 mm gaps.

Is drilling the flexplate holes la bit larger a good idea? The screws really seem to lack space to engage correctly.

Thanks again,

Marc

The pilot hole in the end of the crank, is larger then the "nub" on the converter. So the converter is not being supported. The "nub" on the converter and the hole in the crank, got larger in 1968. I would get another flexplate (68 up) that has not been bent. Then buy or make an adapter ring to fit into the end of the crank, to center/support the converter.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I have the adaptor rings... $20.00 each, includes postage.
DD

Hi everyone,

So I should get the trans out, redo the thread and then get an adapter ring.
Charlie, do you think the flexplate is that much of a problem if bent that it needs replacing?

Doc, I guess the shipping is US only... I'm in France...
What do these rings look like, do you have some blueprints you would give away? I guess no since you are selling these...


BTW, how hard is getting the trans out with engine still in? What's the best procedure?

Thanks for your help,

Marc

Yes, overseas shipping would be a little more.

The ring has a .125 inch wall needed to take-up the extra space between this combination of parts.
OD is 1.81 and the ID is 1.56 and it's 5/8 (.625) wide.
It is best to measure your parts so you get a light press fit to the crank's pilot hole and still have a close "running fit" where the converter's hub slides into the ID.
DD