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 Post subject: Valve Adjustment
PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 10:05 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:13 pm
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Location: Wilton, CA
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On my 63 Dart, the valves need to be adjusted. I know I should adjust them while it is running, but I need the exact info on that. I had it a year or so ago, but can't find it.

Also, I would like to start out by setting the valves with the motor off, to get a base to start with, What do I adjust them to?


Any other tips or info is appreciated. Thanks everyone.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 6:03 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

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Operate the engine to normal operating temp about 180* and allow it to run at aprox 550 RPMS for about 5 mins. at this temp adjust the intake at .010 inch and the exhaust .020 inch

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 6:50 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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I'll second that setting. .010" on intake, .020" on the exhaust.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 9:39 am 
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Thanks gys, I'll see what I can do. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 9:43 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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I always attach a remote push button to the starter relay and adjust the valves dead cold, key off, .011" and .021". :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:00 am 
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Location: Burton BC canada
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I do mine cold as well.

You get a far more accurate setting doing them with the engine off at TDC each cylinder. If you want to get all fussy do them hot with the engine off.

If you like a big mess and munched feelers do it hot and running.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:26 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Here we go again!! :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:48 am 
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Detailed valve adjustment procedure

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 1:28 pm 
Quote:
Here we go again!!
I can see that, but I have a related question that falls into this exact catagory. My motorcycle (1980 Honda CX500c) says to adjust the valves cold, even in the FSM. Does the Chrysler FSMs say to do them cold also?

I know dealers used to adjust them warm, but where did this info come from? Is adjusting them warm/cold dependant on the type of solid-lifter vehicle? Or is 1 better than the other?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 1:34 pm 
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The Chrysler service manual calls for them to be adjusted hot.

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 Post subject: Valve Adjustment?
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 1:58 pm 
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Location: Missouri City, Texas (Houston Area)
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I have been trying to get up the nerve to do the valve adjustment procedure, but am hesitating because of the mess it could make. I have an old valve cover I might cut the top out of to eliminate the messy part of the procedure, but I am still not altogether sure about the "feel" I am supposed to get when doing it right. Another issue is the CompCams 252 calls for 0.010 and 0.012 lash. I think it is too tight ( I wouldn't mind a little more low end.....it's a truck after all). If this could be done cold, that would be prefered.

Encouragement appreciated. :wink:

bwhitejr

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 2:19 pm 
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Do it cold then check while hot and running......see if it changes.....mine doesn t

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 2:52 pm 
Quote:
I have been trying to get up the nerve to do the valve adjustment procedure, but am hesitating because of the mess it could make. I have an old valve cover I might cut the top out of to eliminate the messy part of the procedure, but I am still not altogether sure about the "feel" I am supposed to get when doing it right. Another issue is the CompCams 252 calls for 0.010 and 0.012 lash. I think it is too tight ( I wouldn't mind a little more low end.....it's a truck after all). If this could be done cold, that would be prefered.
Don't worry about it! It will be ok :)

What I do is make sure the engine is nice and warm, after a drive back from work or something. Then I just take the valve cover and coil wire off and use a remote starter -- I do this ASAP after I shut the engine off. That way it doesn't make a mess.

As far as feel, as long as the feeler gauge slides at a consistant 'feel rate' you'll get a consistant adjustment. If you're using a .020 gauge and it slides right in with little resistance, it's gapped too much...like maybe .021 or even bigger... make sure there's some resistance. Technically the more resistance, the more accurate it is to being .020...but that can wreck you mangle your gauges. Just get a nice little firm consistant feel when sliding the gauge.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 3:26 pm 
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Don't worry about making a mess — even if the rockers are oiling properly, there really won't be much of any mess to clean up, and what little there is can easily be taken care of after reassembly with some Simple Green and a hose nozzle. Bolting on a partial valve cover will serve only to make the adjustment process more difficult and more dangerous.

Sandy, share with us your secret recipe for metal that doesn't expand when it gets hot. :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:36 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 5:19 pm
Posts: 67
Location: Central Ca.
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YEP! Here we go again. the information in my post was taken from the 1963 Field Service Manual. I am of the firm belief that the ones who wrote these munuals had a indept and working knowledge of these automobiles, so I normally follow their advice. Yes mabey some of you have a different procedure to perform the task but I would bet that when it is complete (on a stock engine) it will normally perform best at what the manual calls for. Any time I post the information will come from a manual and not off the top of my brain (which I probably have to little of anyway).
Wayne in California

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