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New trans - old driveshaft. Sort of. How to convert?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31345		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  RossKinder [ Fri Sep 26, 2008 2:28 pm ]
Post subject:  New trans - old driveshaft. Sort of. How to convert?
I'm putting a '76 A-833 into a '65 Valiant.

Of course the trans is slip joint and the drive shaft is B & T.

Are there kits available that can be welded onto the old shaft in place of the B & T?

Do people try to find and cannibalize or rebuild an old shaft?

Or what is the way folks usually handle this?

Thanks

PS. Assuming length changes, how much end play should be built into the new slip joint?
Author:  VDART [ Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:07 pm ]
Post subject:  slip joint
Ross-- I might have a slip-joint driveshaft from a 66 dart-- if you could give me the measurements-- i'll check if it is still here,Lawrence
Author:  kesteb [ Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
A Dart driveshaft will not work in a Valiant. Any driveshaft from a Valiant with a 727 auto and the same rear axle should work for you.
Author:  RossKinder [ Fri Sep 26, 2008 7:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
A Dart driveshaft will not work in a Valiant. Any driveshaft from a Valiant with a 727 auto and the same rear axle should work for you.
Thanks, but I live in the world capitol of anti-Mopar. Drive shafts of any kind are simply not to be found. That's why I asked first about kits. I guess they probably don't exist. Hmm.

Thanks
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:08 pm ]
Post subject:  But...
Quote:
A Dart driveshaft will not work in a Valiant.
A demon/Dart Sport that is similarly equipped will....


You just need a 'standard' drive shaft for a valiant with a 7 1/4" rear?

-D.Idiot
Author:  RossKinder [ Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:04 am ]
Post subject:  Re: slip joint
Quote:
Ross-- I might have a slip-joint driveshaft from a 66 dart-- if you could give me the measurements-- i'll check if it is still here,Lawrence
I'm not sure what you mean by "measurements."

The slip joint is 30 spline.

The tube is 2.75 inches but narrows to 2.5 inches at the trunion.

I don't know the length yet, and, frankly, I doubt I care. I've put a 8.25 rear end in place of a 7.25 rear end. I'm putting in a longer transmission in place of the 3 speed. I suspect a shaft would need to be shorter but I can't make a measurement yet. This wouldn't be the first time I had to shorten a drive shaft.

If there is that need, it would be just as well if you cut the front end (slip joint, u-joint and some tube) off the shaft and sent it that way, assuming the tube was the same size. Otherwise if the ends were right I'd probably just have to shorten it.

Thanks.
Author:  RossKinder [ Mon Sep 29, 2008 5:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: slip joint
Quote:
Ross-- I might have a slip-joint driveshaft from a 66 dart-- if you could give me the measurements-- i'll check if it is still here,Lawrence
.

I learned something today that makes me believe I may have thinking in the wrong direction when I talked about shortening the drive shaft. I may find it too short.

Can you get me a measurement direct from your drive shaft? Mine is 48.5 inches from the shoulder of the tube at the front end to the center of the u-joint/spider (where the straps seat) at the rear. If yours isn't somewhat longer I'll definitely be needing a front slip joint/u-joint/tube section from somewhere.
Author:  kesteb [ Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Thanks, but I live in the world capitol of anti-Mopar. Drive shafts of any kind are simply not to be found. That's why I asked first about kits. I guess they probably don't exist. Hmm.

Thanks
If that is the case, then a local drive line shop should be able to build a correct drive shaft for your car. They can also tell you how to measure everything so they can build it correctly. This should cost around $150 or so dollars and probable be a better deal in the long run.
Author:  RossKinder [ Sun Oct 05, 2008 9:44 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks, but I live in the world capitol of anti-Mopar. Drive shafts of any kind are simply not to be found. That's why I asked first about kits. I guess they probably don't exist. Hmm.

Thanks
If that is the case, then a local drive line shop should be able to build a correct drive shaft for your car. They can also tell you how to measure everything so they can build it correctly. This should cost around $150 or so dollars and probable be a better deal in the long run.
Maybe - if I could find the parts. They've already quoted $350 for putting new parts on my old drive shaft.

Thanks
Author:  rock [ Sun Oct 05, 2008 2:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Ross, that is outrageous enough to make me write
Ross,

I have one already made up that ought to do you, seems it was 53 inches center of ujoint cup to center of u jpoint cup.. If it won't do, cost to fix is in the $50 range at a "best of its kind" driveline shop here. If you want one made from scratch it is $150 including ALL parts. They do everything from city buses to quarry trucks to 1/2 ton pickups and new japanese cars.. They use what looks like a 20 foot long lathe. The joint ends are welded on automatically as the tube turns. One of those been in business 60 years kind of places. If you want to deal with a reputable place I can give you the contacts. I bet shippng isn't even $20. $350 my ..s!

rock
64d100
Author:  RossKinder [ Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Ross, that is outrageous enough to make me write
Quote:
Ross,

I have one already made up that ought to do you, seems it was 53 inches center of ujoint cup to center of u jpoint cup.. If it won't do, cost to fix is in the $50 range at a "best of its kind" driveline shop here. If you want one made from scratch it is $150 including ALL parts. They do everything from city buses to quarry trucks to 1/2 ton pickups and new japanese cars.. They use what looks like a 20 foot long lathe. The joint ends are welded on automatically as the tube turns. One of those been in business 60 years kind of places. If you want to deal with a reputable place I can give you the contacts. I bet shippng isn't even $20. $350 my ..s!

rock
64d100
Sounds good. Make me up a bill!

I need to get the 833 installed so I can get measurements. But right now I'm trying to figure out how to dig out the old pilot bearing.

There was an old timer who did them in his garage cheap. He passed on. Now there's this get-rich-quick outfit left in town. I can buy a new one for less.

Thanks
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