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| Removing a pilot bearing https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31509 |
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| Author: | RossKinder [ Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Removing a pilot bearing |
Any genius tricks out there for getting a bushing out? I got a puller, but it won't do the job. Too short. Thanks |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Cold chisel |
You need the longer puller (Harbor Freight)... Your next best bet is to use a cold chisel, but make sure not to scrape the pilot bushing bore in the crank... -D.idiot |
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| Author: | 65Dodge100 [ Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Pack the hole with grease. Get a steel shaft that is the same size as the I.D. of the bushing. Insert the shaft into the bushing and hit it with a hammer. Hydraulics pushes the bushing out. Or am I missing something… Danny |
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| Author: | RossKinder [ Sun Oct 05, 2008 7:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cold chisel |
Quote: You need the longer puller (Harbor Freight)...
This one is from HF. Are you saying Harbor Freight has two lengths of bushing pullers?Your next best bet is to use a cold chisel, but make sure not to scrape the pilot bushing bore in the crank... -D.idiot Thanks |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | ??? |
I had bought one 5 years back and have used it only a couple of times and it worked great, a buddy got a new one and it looks a bit shorter on the pulling prongs... you can do the hydro trick previously explained as long as the bushing isn't loctited in... the old standby trick of scoring a cut down the middle of one side of the bushing then prying on it with an awl to roll the side over and pulling out with a pliers is the old shade tree mechanic way to go. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Mon Oct 06, 2008 5:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Pack the hole with grease. Get a steel shaft that is the same size as the I.D. of the bushing. Insert the shaft into the bushing and hit it with a hammer. Hydraulics pushes the bushing out.
I have found this is the easiest/best.
Or am I missing something… Danny |
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| Author: | RossKinder [ Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: ??? |
Quote: I had bought one 5 years back and have used it only a couple of times and it worked great, a buddy got a new one and it looks a bit shorter on the pulling prongs... you can do the hydro trick previously explained as long as the bushing isn't loctited in... the old standby trick of scoring a cut down the middle of one side of the bushing then prying on it with an awl to roll the side over and pulling out with a pliers is the old shade tree mechanic way to go.
The "hooks" extended from the tips to about 3/8 inch. And the upper arms were about that thick as well. I took an angle head and a dremel and reshaped the profile. Got the hooks down to about 5/32 inch and the arm thickness down to about 7/32 inch. That worked.-D.Idiot I couldn't use the hydro method because the bushing was mis-shapen badly. After I got it out I could see that I could have knocked it out easily enough, because it was pretty thin and very brittle. Thanks |
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| Author: | RossKinder [ Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Quote: Pack the hole with grease. Get a steel shaft that is the same size as the I.D. of the bushing. Insert the shaft into the bushing and hit it with a hammer. Hydraulics pushes the bushing out.
I have found this is the easiest/best.Or am I missing something… Danny Thanks |
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| Author: | InThePink [ Mon Oct 06, 2008 2:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Quote: Quote: Pack the hole with grease. Get a steel shaft that is the same size as the I.D. of the bushing. Insert the shaft into the bushing and hit it with a hammer. Hydraulics pushes the bushing out.
I have found this is the easiest/best.Or am I missing something… Danny Thanks |
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| Author: | RossKinder [ Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote:
The input shaft can become worn and if the input bearing is also loose or sloppy, you're going to wear the needle bearings much more quickly than if all was tight.
Since I don't know the guts and function of a transmission intimately I can only guess. Does that mean it will jump out of gear? Leak? Wear out the gear teeth?I've always known wear is bad, but I'm trying to get a handle on what actually results from a bad pilot. I read in one place that a transmission MUST be centered on the crank within .0001. A little hard to buy. Facts are hard to come by. Thanks |
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| Author: | Doc [ Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Lakewood says that up to .005 of run-out is OK. http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/pdf/b ... cedure.pdf I try to keep it within .002 .0001 would be hard to get. (or measure for that matter) DD |
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