Slant Six Forum :: Got a newish ND alternator--How do I make it work?

4. I gotta come up with a sleeved bolt for the top alternator/adjuster brace. The alternator uses a 3/8 inch bolt, and and the adjuster brace looks like a 1/4 inch or so. Grrr...

I don't know if I will finish it tonight.

Thanks, I will check the voltage when I get it fired up.

G

I will be interested to read of your results with the adjustable regulator, CS.

I think it has something to do with the alternator field resistance.

The adj regulator I ordered states it is for a 7 amp field alternator.

One possible cure would be to use a Nip alternator with a built in regulator

Quote:

One possible cure would be to use a Nip alternator with a built in regulator

Enough of the late alternators have successfully been put on enough of the early cars that we know it won't be necessary to resort to an internally-regulated alternator.

For that matter, enough later Mopars with failed voltage regulation sections of the combination engine control module have been successfully retrofitted with either the ordinary electronic '70-up regulator or even the '60-'69 mechanical regulator (and one field grounded) that we know it works the other way around, too.

Author:	gmader [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:17 pm ]
Post subject:	Got a newish ND alternator--How do I make it work?
Hi all, I got a newer Nippondenso two pulley alternator from a 1990 Dakota. How do I make it work? I am guessing that I need to ground one of the two field wires, no? How much grinding on the bracket ears needs to happen? On the front ear, it looks like I need to grind off a lot. Is there a better way to do this? Thanks, Greg

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:24 pm ]
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For a '70-up car, it hooks up exactly like the original alternator: one field wire to each of the two field studs on the back of the alternator, main feed wire to the B+ output stud. For a '69-down car, ground one of the field studs and connect the car's only field wire to the other field stud. Grind about 1/8" off the front of the lower alternator bracket and the new alternator should drop right onto it. For more information see this thread.

Author:	gmader [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:28 pm ]
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Thanks Dan. I just found the thread, and was going to post a "Never mind" message, but you beat me to it. Greg

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:09 pm ]
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Actually if it is the cast alternator mount, it needs 1/4 inch removed from the front. After you are done, check the alternater output voltage. I have this alt on both my cars, and just noticed I am boiling the battery on my Cuda, since I started driving on the street. I am getting about 15.3 volts. Just today I checked my 66 valiant, and have the same thing. The Cuda is using the late style regulator, and the Valiant has the early replcment electronic regulator (looks like a thin mechanical). I put a light bulb in series with the field wire, to limit the field current, and the charge rate came down to about 14.2 volts. I am going to do some more testing, with a variable resistor (cooked the one I tried). I also have an adjustable regulator on order. I think the regulator for the "normal" chrysler alternator may have a compatability problem with the Nipp alternators, due to different field current requirements. I will be doing some more testing, when I get a little more time.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:23 pm ]
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I will be interested to read of your results with the adjustable regulator, CS.

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Author:	gmader [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 4:13 pm ]
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I found some small glitches along the way. 1. Charrlie is right, it was closer to a 1/4 of the bracket that needed to be ground off. 2. The wire ends are a little different. I had to make a spade connector to ring connector adapter for the field wire. 3. The doggone fan belt is too long! I don't have any adjustment left in the simple brace/adjuster that runs along the top. 4. I gotta come up with a sleeved bolt for the top alternator/adjuster brace. The alternator uses a 3/8 inch bolt, and and the adjuster brace looks like a 1/4 inch or so. Grrr... I don't know if I will finish it tonight. Thanks, I will check the voltage when I get it fired up. G

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 7:39 pm ]
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Quote: 4. I gotta come up with a sleeved bolt for the top alternator/adjuster brace. The alternator uses a 3/8 inch bolt, and and the adjuster brace looks like a 1/4 inch or so. Grrr... I don't know if I will finish it tonight. Thanks, I will check the voltage when I get it fired up. G What I did for the adjuster was, drill and tap the alternator for a (forget which) 7/16 or 1/2 inch bolt. Thread the bolt into the alt, and drill and tap the bolt 5/16, then use the stock adjustment.

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 7:44 pm ]
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Quote: I will be interested to read of your results with the adjustable regulator, CS. I want to do some more tests, comparing field current, and alt voltage/amps output. I also want to compare full field current on the Nip and Stock Chrys alternators. I will do these tests after I get the adj reg and a adjustable resistor, that will handle the field current. That way I can do everything with one setup. Should be about a week.

Author:	gmader [ Wed Dec 03, 2008 8:12 pm ]
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Install complete, and I am getting 15.82 Volts So..... I gotta problem. Charrlie, where are you with your testing? Thanks, Greg

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 4:16 am ]
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Haven't done any more, yet. I am waiting for the adj regulator to get here. Been busy with customers cars. Maybe this weekend. What you could do for a temp fix, is wire in a resistor, or a lite bulb into the field wire. Try different value/bulbs, while watching the voltage to the battery.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:52 am ]
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Pretty bizarre; the '89 M-bodies, factory-equipped with Nippondenso (or Bosch or Chrysler) 40/90 alternators just like the ones we're swapping on, use the same nonadjustable external voltage regulator as any other '70-up Mopar with an external voltage regulator.

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 10:36 am ]
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I think it has something to do with the alternator field resistance. The Nip alternators have more full field current draw. The adj regulator I ordered states it is for a 7 amp field alternator. That tells me the field windings do make a difference, in some way. When the adj reg gets here, I will take a couple of different alternators and regulators down to my parts store and use there machine to run the alternators. I will set up with the same battery and volt and amp meters, and try different combos of parts to see if I can determine the problem/cure. One possible cure would be to use a Nip alternator with a built in regulator.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:13 pm ]
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Quote: I think it has something to do with the alternator field resistance. That might make logical sense if the external-regulator vehicles originally equipped with this alternator took a different regulator than the ones originally equipped with Chrysler alternators, but that is not the case. Quote: The adj regulator I ordered states it is for a 7 amp field alternator. Yup, and the Chrysler alternators started meeting that spec in 1981 or so. This is a one-way compatibility issue based on regulator durability, not regulation compatibility: using an '81-up alternator with relatively high field current draw with a regulator built to handle only the earlier relatively low-current field will burn out the regulator in short order. Using a regulator capable of handling the high-current field with a low-current-field alternator gives no bad effect. Quote: One possible cure would be to use a Nip alternator with a built in regulator Enough of the late alternators have successfully been put on enough of the early cars that we know it won't be necessary to resort to an internally-regulated alternator. For that matter, enough later Mopars with failed voltage regulation sections of the combination engine control module have been successfully retrofitted with either the ordinary electronic '70-up regulator or even the '60-'69 mechanical regulator (and one field grounded) that we know it works the other way around, too.

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:00 pm ]
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Quote: Quote: One possible cure would be to use a Nip alternator with a built in regulator Enough of the late alternators have successfully been put on enough of the early cars that we know it won't be necessary to resort to an internally-regulated alternator. I don't like that idea, either. Just throwing it out there. Quote: For that matter, enough later Mopars with failed voltage regulation sections of the combination engine control module have been successfully retrofitted with either the ordinary electronic '70-up regulator or even the '60-'69 mechanical regulator (and one field grounded) that we know it works the other way around, too. Yep, done that myself. This is really bugging me. I can hardly wait to spend a little time on this. It is really strang, but we are talking about three different vehicles, here.

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Author:	SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:37 pm ]
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Yeah, buggin' me too, 'cause it's really happening, but it's weird!