I found one in a 62 Valient in a wrecking yard. I was wondering was wondering what they are worth.

That totally depends on the condition of the engine — the aluminum 225 is subject to particular kinds of corrosion and deterioration, in addition to the normal wear and breakage factors with any old engine — and the state of the economy and the phase of the moon. I remember a couple years ago one in good rebuildable condition went for $1K+...and a couple months ago, one in good rebuildable condition failed to sell for $700. It might be a good buy if you're looking for an interesting project, or if they're about to crush the car and you can economically save it. But it probably isn't a good buy if what you're after is an investment (buy it to flip it and make money); in that case please "pay it forward" for the community and kindly let us know where it is.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I sold a nice clean one for much less-- but it went to a good home 7 will be cared for, Lawrence

Yup...the ones I had to sell when I left Denver went for about $400 apiece.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Would pulling the head be enough to determine corrosion issues?

I am in So.Cal and would be interested in it if its in good shape! Hey SSD how about that aluminum slant in a 67 Dart GT

Pulling the head shows you most of the trouble spots. Get the coolant out of the block and you can shine a light down and see corrosion at the tops of the cyl liners and in the surrounding block below, esp toward the rear where it sometimes breaks through into the trans bellhousing area.

If you want to use it, buy it, but I doubt you'll make much money unless it's in really nice shape. I have a few of these, and $400 is the most I've paid for a rebuildable block/caps. But, I tend to look for deals and wait a while too.

Someone should pick it up, that's for sure!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Lou. I only became aware of these a week ago when and old hot rodder said these go for pretty big coin in the right circles. Then the other day I was at the local "Pull It Yourself" yard and happened along a 62 Plymouth. There is a block on Ebay under completed auctions that sold for $800. Also, is it more desirable as a complete long block core or with the original crank?

Thanks, Al

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I suspect Lou will agree with me when I say, get the whole engine.
Those use an iron insert in the block for the crank mains, and the head is cast-marked "special", as they were matched to the engine. That's not to say a "regular" production head might have been put on it at some later time, but we "know" that the engine worked together as an assembly for quite a while. Things like the water and oil pump are production pieces, but if you have to leave it outside for any length of time, it'll help to keep the motor "closed up" and weather resistant.

Roger

Upper and lower cast iron main caps.
Not quite right. Early-production aluminum engines had a head marked "SPECIAL" on the external casting number pad. Mid-production aluminum engines had a head with a 5-pointed star in that location. And late-production aluminum engines had the same casting number (2206035) in that location as the iron engines. The head was not specially matched to the aluminum engine. Rather, it was a slightly different casting with a smaller combustion chamber diameter and more pushrod clearance. The head was commonised for the 1963 model year so the head for all slant-6s had the smaller combustion chamber diameter and the greater pushrod clearance, but then the aluminum engine was discontinued early in the '63 model year.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.