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 Post subject: Weatherstripping leaking
PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 2:12 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:33 pm
Posts: 1004
Location: Sacramento, CA
Car Model:
My old weatherstripping was leaking on the roof rails for the drivers side window, so I bought some new stuff and it fit in there real well but doesn't seal at all when I roll the window up. The window is able to roll as far up as it can go, but it just doesn't go all the way up into the weatherstripping. It just kinda sits a little bit below it. One thing I noticed is that the door is a few millimeteres too low compared to the body but even if I raised that up I don't think it would seal. I put the old weatherstripping back in and now it leaks a lot worse than it did before even though its seated in there well. The metal rail that it sits in looks like its about half an inch lower than the passenger side. That one is up and more tucked under the rain gutter but the drivers side is like sunk down a little bit. Has anyone ever had this problem with a Duster? I'd like to be able to raise the door up a little bit to see if it helps but I'm not sure how. Do they make something that I could put over the weatherstripping on the roof rail to make it thicker so the window sets in it better and seals? Thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 2:15 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
who did you buy the weatherstripping from? and can you rock the door up and down when you attempt to lift the door up from the back bottom corner? you are checking for play in the pins and bushings here. pin and bushing kits are available to correct door sag.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 6:13 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:33 pm
Posts: 1004
Location: Sacramento, CA
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I got this set from ebay

http://tinyurl.com/6fnedx

The quality of it seems just fine. It fits in there perfectly. I think theres something wrong with the rail that it sits in. The rail is screwed into the body but for some reason it just looks tweaked or out of place compared to the passenger side. I just can't figure it out because all the screws line up in the holes, it just looks different and I know thats why its not sealing. If I can't fix that I think I could fix it by just putting another thin piece of rubber over the weather stripping to make it thicker. Is there anything like this out there?

I played with the door like you said and yeah theres a bit more play in it than there is on the passenger side. Any recommendations for a good kit? I don't think it'll solve the problem but it should help a little bit.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 6:32 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
it is possible your car was in a collision at some point and the door opening was never set perfectly square again. im assuming that isnt original paint. if that is the case i would look at adding material behind the seal to force it into contact with your window, but only after replacing the door pins and bushings. try this supplier for NOS pieces: www.collectorsautosupply.com i have bought LH thread wheelstuds from them in the past and was satisfied in every aspect of my dealings with them.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:09 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
That is unfortunately a common occurence with the 'non post'/ non wing window configuration. The door sag is probably your hinges and bushings, and the door stop which after 40 years of getting slammed shut it's time to replace them. The weather stripping for these was never perfect, and supposedly there is a change to the configuration/cross section from the 1970-1972 gasket, to the 1973-1976 gasket. Another thing to check is your window rail positioning...sometimes these 'rattle' around a bit and the window angle can change since the window is just held in with a plastic grommet and supported from the bottom.

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:44 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:33 pm
Posts: 1004
Location: Sacramento, CA
Car Model:
Thanks for the advice. I bought the pin and bushing set online (wish I would have known that Napa just sells the same exact kit hanging on a peg in their store lol) and installed it. Took some work because the bushings kept breaking. Ended up having to use an old bushing I took out but it fit real tight and the door isn't as saggy anymore. No more play than the passenger side door when I try and work it up and down. Also adjusted the door so its pushed more in toward the cab. That pushed the window in toward the weather stripping and gave it a better seal.

That fixed the main leak but I still have one dripping down the A pillar. I think it might be the windshield but I did a hose test and couldn't get anything to drip inside the car. Maybe I'll just have to let the hose run on it for 10min or so and see if it just takes a while.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:36 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
Body shops sometimes use a spray-on powder to find aread that aren't sealing properly. You can spray it on the door and window edge; when you close the door the powder is transferred to the weatherstrip. Any areas not showing a powder residue are not making contact. You should be able to get it at any auto body supply / paint store.

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'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

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