Hi Doc. Thanks for your help on my posts about
rear main seals and #3 thrust bearings, I got um'
both changed out per your instructions!!!

Now I'm putting a Petronix Ignition Module on my
'67 A100. The instructions say if you're running
a ballast resistor, connect the lead for the
"new" module before the ballast resistor (12v).

I'm wondering why I even need the ballast anymore?
Does it (ballast) feed anything else? Gauges or
something? I seem to remember the ballast feeding
the gauges or something else, per the wiring
diagram?? Can I just dump it?

Thanks
Mike

mike.j.moser@boeing.com

The Ballast Resistor controls the power feed to the coil, without the resistor, a factory coil will burn-up.
The resistor is most important while the engine is running at low RPMs, this is when the coil has lots of "saturation time" between fireings.
DD

So, I already bought a new Hi-Output 12V coil,
am I covered than? Or would I get a varied
current to this coil and mess it up??

I've also heard of 12V Ballast Resistors, should
I install one of these to have a more controled
current going to the new coil??

Thanks
Mike


mike.j.moser@boeing.com

If the coil recomends one then you should use it. A lot of coil by design do not require an external ballast resistors.

12V Ballast Resistor?? These things are rated by resistance and the power they can disipate (ie; watts) not volts. Use what is recomended by the coil manufacturer. The intent of these things is to limit the current low thru the coil at low rpm or if the engine is stalled and key is on.

Hot-Rod 6
dave.clement@motorola.com

Pertronix makes 2 kinds of ignition modules the Ignitor and the Ignitor II. If you bought the Ignitor II you don't need any ballast resistor between the "12 volt source" and the coil because the Ignitor II does the job of making sure the current is at the right limit itself.

With the regular Ignitor (not an Ignitor II) you would want to keep a ballast resistor between the 12 volts and the coil.

Now the Ignitor module itself needs to have its power connection (red lead) directly from the "12 volt source" not after its gone through a ballast resistor.

As for what else is connected to the ballast resistor - nothing else needs to be connected to the ignition coil ballast resistor. But if you "remove" the ballast resistor by either jumpering it with a wire or connecting both sides together (like if you are setting up for an Ignitor II) you may find that other items that are connected to the Run terminal on your ignition switch that fed the ballast resistor will now also get the full "12 volt" connection during Start / Crank. This is probably no big deal - on my 66 Dart it meant that the Oil Pressure lamp now lights up during Start/Crank as well as the way it always did in the Run position before the engine catches and the oil pressure built up.

tmiodusz@aol.com