Thats it, I'm getting a couple of them battery terminals!
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| Negative Battery Cable Landing Point on Block https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33187 |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Tue Jan 06, 2009 1:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Negative Battery Cable Landing Point on Block |
Cleaning up my engine compartment Department: At present my negative battery cable is landed or terminated on one of the water pump bolts. It is functional but sloppy looking. My 1967 Dart has power steering, and I don't see a handy bolt that is not used for adjustment of the pump that would make a nice terminal for the grounding cable. I'm open for options. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:12 pm ] |
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Many factory applications I see use one of the two or three power steering pump bracket bolts as the (-) ground, or the power steering bracket itself. |
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| Author: | 70valiant [ Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:27 pm ] |
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Vote 2 for power steering bracket |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The neg cable goes to one of the P/S block-to-pump bracket bolts. You can sneak it in underneath the pump. Haven't seen factory grounding to the bracket, but it'd probably work okay. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:00 pm ] |
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Dan: Quote: You can sneak it in underneath the pump
Thanks Dan. Not particularly a handy spot, I'll make it work as I don't like to land conductors on adjustment points. Too great a potential for bad connections, and disrupted contact. It will get that wire rerouted, and out of the way from its present configuration.While I'm on battery cable detail, is there a low cost option for the siamesed (+) red conductor to starter, and the small short lead that lands on the starter selenoid like these at Year One: http://www.yearone.com/pco/A_0308/full.asp?page=105 |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:30 pm ] |
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You can easily just put a ring terminal on each end of an appropriate length of 12ga wire and attach one end to an ordinary positive battery cable terminal clamp and the other end to the starter relay. See also this thread. |
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| Author: | Eric W [ Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:36 pm ] |
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Thats it, I'm getting a couple of them battery terminals!
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:48 am ] |
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Holy crap! Nice rewiring job! No more ground or cracked insulation issues.  
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| Author: | wjajr [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 4:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The new battery cables are now installed. The grounding conductor was a bit of a challenge as the power steering pump bracket would not come apart due to one of the header pipes restricting retraction of the hinge bolt. However I did finally remove the lower mounting bolt holding the bracket to the block, and land the negative cable at the spot. Cold Iron dose not give up its captives easily. For the positive side, I used a marine battery cable clamp which allowed landing of the new large wire & smaller conductor with crimped eye connector on a threaded stud for a much cleaner installation. See second photo  
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 4:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have my battery cables terminated in eyelets too, but since I'm using a lawn tractor battery the cables are bolted right to the battery. I'll pick up a pair of those HD military type terminals if I ever go back to a battery with conventional posts. |
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| Author: | steponmebbbboom [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I do not see the value of a bolt-equipped battery clamp beyond adapting a post-type battery to a marine/military application requiring ring terminal connections to the battery. For our application where there is rarely more than a large starter cable and a smaller wire for the rest of the system, the best solution is a preformed cable with the large and small connector cast right into the clamp because it is the most impervious to corrosion intrusion. For anyone who absolutely must have more than one smaller-gauge wire off the positive post to run other accessories, i still recommend using the two-conductor cable/clamp assembly and running the smaller wire to an insulated remote junction post, away from the battery. take a look at any electric forklift truck and you will see only two cables coming out of the battery bank, there is a very good reason for that: acid. Quote: I have my battery cables terminated in eyelets too, but since I'm using a lawn tractor battery
that would be the only logical reason i would use ring terminals on the cables, to use that style of battery. using a post-and-clamp style battery, and then putting an adaptor between the battery and the cables for its own sake does not make any sense. finalise the electrical system design once and make it permanent, and the sytem will be more reliable than one designed to be constantly altered with adding/removing circuits.
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| Author: | 74DartSport [ Tue Mar 10, 2009 3:38 pm ] |
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Quote: While I'm on battery cable detail, is there a low cost option for the siamesed (+) red conductor to starter, and the small short lead that lands on the starter selenoid like these at Year One:
I just called Year One. They haven't had any of these MC64 cables since Fall 2005. Their manufacturer stopped making them. Salesman did not know who the previous supplier was.http://www.yearone.com/pco/A_0308/full.asp?page=105 I replaced my battery negative cable two days ago. I had to drill out the eyelet for the engine ground in order to insert the bolt through the small eyelet on the new cable. The body ground did not have an eyelet and I had to splice and add a length of cable plus an eyelet I supplied for the body ground. I don't like the look of this negative cable, and I intend to replace it later. My positive battery cable is new and has the appearance I want for the negative cable. Does anybody make cables for slant sixes that don't require modification that cost less than $189.00? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:30 pm ] |
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Fer heaven's sakes…! Just use an ordinary battery cable and attach a 12ga wire with a ring terminal to the battery cable clamp. Or to the other end, it doesn't matter to the electrons. |
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| Author: | 6shotvanner [ Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:05 am ] |
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As long as this topic came back up might I suggest a trip to Napa if you have one close by.Have them pull out the paper catalog,NOT the computer.In the back there are tons of pic's and length/ga/terminal spec's. The computer was not showing the proper cables for my van but a trip to the hard catalog found me the correct ones which in my case have several connections each.We just looked a pic's and read spec's till we found direct bolt on/bolt down/clamp on/plug in cables. 
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