I've got a cast crank hydro motor out of an early 80's Cordoba or something in my '74 Swinger. I decided that I want to build it up a little, instead of starting from scratch (I don't have the time or the room for such a build anymore).

I was thinking maybe do a .060" overbore, with some 198 rods, and hopefully, that will do some help in the compression department. I still need it as a daily driver, so it can't be all out.

I guess one of the most important factors will be the cam choice. I plan to place a dual 1bbl offy intake on it, soon as I get $400 to buy it. I am also wanting to put Dutra Duals on it at some point as well. I currently have a 2.25" header downpipe (courtesy of D.I.) that I plan to have installed before too long.

It has a stock Torque converter, which, I will eventually replace with something rated 2200 behind an LA, much like the one I had in my old Dart. If it isn't really possible for me to come across some 198 rods.... I want to know what is the absolute MAXIMUM that I can shave the head? I know the lifters don't have alot of give, so I want to try and keep it within operating range.

I currently have 2.76 rear gears, which I hope to swap out for some 2.93 (2.94?) later on. I have a suregrip that I am installing tomorrow as well. I am shooting for the 17 second range. With a '74 Swinger with Ralph Nader bumpers, that won't exactly be easy I'm sure.

Anyone have suggestions?

Before anyone asks "Why don't you just swap to a solid lifter setup?" I want to try it the way it is, and see what happens. If I decide that I want more, I will build another engine. This is my DD, so not needing to adjust the valves is kinda nice.

Thanks!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

198 rods will work on the forged crank, the cast crank had different journals so you will be doing the custom thing for those long rods.

-D.Idiot

Alright, I am starting to gather parts for the the setup that I want. I have the Dutra Duals, the Suregrip is installed, and I have the piping I need for the duals.

I am going to purchase a double roller timing set, a second economaster 1920 (I already have 1), and am looking into a set of 2.93s right now. I want the majority of power to be between 2000 and 4000. I don't plan on spinning the engine any faster than 4000 RPMs.

I plan on purchasing a 2000RPM stall converter (2000 rating for slant 6 not V8) and the transmission has already been adjusted. When I get the new Torque converter, I will do a full trans service.

I have weighed the car, and with me in it, a half tank o' gas, and a few odds and ends in the car, it weighs in at just over 3500 lbs.

I guess the real question I need answering is what cam to buy. I decided to go to a solid lifter setup, so I can shave the head/block for a few more psi of compression. My goal is to run 9:1 compression. I will do some porting/polishing on the peanut plug head I have, but am keeping the stock valve size for now.

So 9:1 compression ratio, Dutra Duals, 2.93:1 (2.76:1 now), 2000 stall converter, and a 3500 (or so) pound car, what cam would be best for a 2000 (or so) to 4000 RPM powerband?

As I stated in my original post, I would like to run about 17 seconds in the quarter mile, nothing real fast, because I would like to try and squeak by with 20mpg on the freeway if possible.

I've scrapped the 198 rod idea... it just isn't practical for me.

Any advice is appreciated!

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Use the semi-mild RDP cam I designed for Erson a while back, Their RV15 lobe on the intake and the old Mopar Performance "244" lobe (254) on the exhaust.
This cam works well with 8.5 to 9.0 to 1 compression. (pump gas)
Here is a link to the profile sheet
DD

Doc...is this a hydraulic cam, or solid lifter? I saw lash specs on the link...

Good grief Thor, your car weighs 3500? My Satellite only weighs 150lbs more with me and a half tank of gas and some "junk in my trunk". Not being critical, but thats heavy for an A body!

That would be a solid lifter cam. Which is exactly what I need, since I am swapping to a solid lifter setup.

Dunno where all the weight comes from. I weigh 225 (ironic), and I had maybe 50-60 lbs worth of extra stuff in the car. So, you figure 300 lbs load. You can take out the stuff, fill the tank and I would still wind up right around 3500, since the scale actually said 3540 lbs. Your guess is as good as mine.

I need to figure out how to lighten the car a bit, but the car is basically bare bones right now. I will be swapping to a manual steering box at some point as well, I already have the manual steering column thanks to MiDi.

I'll update this as I get more stuff done with the car, and more parts ordered.

Thanks!

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

um, sounds like a scratch build to me, unless youve devised a way to do an in-frame overbore.

:shrug: i'd like to help you, but...

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Do you need a forged crank set-up? I have a block, crank, and mechanical cam that I would let go to a fellow slanter. Also, have that rebuilt carb....
Frankly I would look at a custom grind from OregonCam, and don't be too afraid to give it some cam. I have an RV cam and I can't even tell it's not stock or for that matter I go "man this car needs some freakin cam in it!". Just make sure to get something with the stall and gears you plan to get. I got some cores too, pretty much got some stuff for you if you need any help. Wes

Not going to spin past 4K? Whyall the carburation? I can't drive down the street without tapping 4 grand........+

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Two Economaster Holleys isnt all that much carb... I think each one would flow about 180 cfm X2 = ~360 cfm, which is good enough to get me some nice power. I don't intend on spinning past 4k because I really have no reason to.

Step:

I think what I meant was "I don't have the space to build a completely seperate engine that I can just dump in the car." Except that I stated it wrong... hehe. I also forgot to mention that I had changed my mind on the lifter setup. Oops.

Wes,

I want to stick with the cast crank. It is lighter, and therefore will spin up faster than the forged crank. Not by a whole lot, but everylittle bit of help I can give the engine in not working against itself, is good.

Far as "rebuilt carb" do you mean a 1920 economaster? I assume so, otherwise I doubt you would have mentioned it. The cam that Doug specified sounds pretty good to me, and if I can get it and a set of lifters for ~175 bucks, then I may just go that route. I don't have any spare cams to send in for them to regrind.

With the 2000 stall and some 2.93s, I should be set. I would like to lighten the car, but short of removing the bumpers and that god forsaken trailer hitch, there isn't a whole lot I can do about that.

Lemme know whatcha got that you think would help me, and the $$$ you need out of it.

Thanks!

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

if youre not going to spin-up past 4k then a lighter crank will not have noticeable benefits to you. if you want a torque monster that will pull hard up to 4k, then concentrate on improving low-end torque. ditching the cast for forged and going with the better rod ratio of the longrod is the direction you want to go here.
and going with alloy wheels... bucket seats... remove rear seat... temp spare and aluminum jack... and yes, going on a diet...

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

So swap to a forged crank (Basically a different engine), get the longer rods (such as the 198s, or the K1s). Now that you have mentioned it, those things make alot more sense now.

The heavier crank won't slow down as fast due to inertia, and therefore will make it easier for the engine, and the longer rods improving the rod ratio will also make for a longer, higher velocity intake charge period.

D'oh!

I do have a '63 truck engine, the only issue is that unless I swap to a manual trans (Don't see that happening anytime soon) I would have to get an early torque converter. Hmmm, anyone wanna trade a '63 truck engine for a '67 up engine?

Thanks

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

With no cam, no converter, no RPM, no gear, and a car that heavy the light crank will make absolutley no difference.

Not trying to be a dick, but the whole idea of changing all that stuff is to turn RPM and make power.

Late A-bodies are heavy pigs. You can get 100 pounds out of the crash bumpers if you can do a little fab work for mounts.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

1. Noted

2. Dually noted. I suppose my ideas are a bit odd for those who build engines. This whole build is still way up in the air, and any change can be made at any time. When we/I finally get something that sounds like a good plan, then I will stick with it.

3. I will definitely take a look into doing that. Any weight I can remove without "cutting" up the car, I would definitely be interested in.

I am looking to build a cruiser, not a race car. A 17 second cruiser shouldn't be too awfully hard to do.
~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I talked to my local machine shop about opening up the crank pocket on the engine I got from Midi. They said they could do it no problem for around 40 bucks. Don't see why a machine shop around you can't do the same.