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 Post subject: found the knock
PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 4:23 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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borrowed a hoist and got the enging out. Dan you were rt on the money about the bearings. The nmbr 6 piston was loose. Thus the knocking. The bottom bearing had cracked in half. No excessive wear of the crankshaft. Cylinder walls still looked clean. So i replaced all the bearings.

also installed the new distributor from the NOS Mopar elec ignition set up.

sure is much nicer to work on it while its on a stand.

thanks again for your help




Quote:
Yup. You're going to need some bearings and, depending on the extent of the damage, you may be looking at grinding and polishing the crank to use undersize bearings. You'll also need to suspect the rings and cylinder wall finish.?
bearings i can do. i got an extra set with the new rings i just put in. this time though, instead of working from under the car, I'm pulling the whole thing out. there's a farmer down the road with an engine stand and hoist.
good news is I know how to do it all now. except the grinding of the crank. that sounds like a pain. Hey what makes the noise when bearings get burnt up like this?

I'll hit you up later Dan da man. stay motivated. thanks for all your help

Keni

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 6:01 pm 
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Supercharged
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Why do you suppose it cracked?
was it a new bearing with a flaw?

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 Post subject: why it broke
PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 6:55 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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sorry ted, this was from an earlier conversation.
i lost my oil drain plug 2 miles from home. The knock appreared. Dan gave his diagnosis knowing that the cause of the knock would be from driving the engine on no oil.

he said at min, I would need new bearings. He was right. The heat created on the bearing without sufficient oil was enough to crack it. Once it broke, the piston was no longer snug around the crank and thus the awful knock.

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 Post subject: Re: found the knock
PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:35 pm 
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Quote:
also installed the new distributor from the NOS Mopar elec ignition set up.
What exact Mopar electronic ignition setup are we talking about here? Is it the Mopar Performance P3690789 distributor?
Quote:
Hey what makes the noise when bearings get burnt up like this?
They no longer fit precisely to the crankshaft. The crank doesn't actually ride on the bearings, but on a thin film of oil that takes up the space between the crank journal and the bearing surface. If that oil film goes away, the crank hits the bearing and starts pounding!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:36 pm 
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FYI...
When a con rod bearing fails it will usually wear that crank journal "out of round".
The journal may look OK to the eye but you need to measure it for roundness, if it is more then .001 to .002 out of round, it will quickly "wipe-out" any new bearing you install on the journal.
Do not ask me how I know... :wink: :evil:
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:38 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Quote:
What exact Mopar electronic ignition setup are we talking about here? Is it the Mopar Performance P3690789 distributor
instruction sheet reads as follows
Mopar Performance Electronic Ign Kit w Vacuum Advance Distributor
prt #s P3690426,427, and 428

Quote:
When a con rod bearing fails it will usually wear that crank journal "out of round". The journal may look OK to the eye but you need to measure it for roundness, if it is more then .001 to .002 out of round, it will quickly "wipe-out" any new bearing you install on the journal.
thanks DD. Good to know. Will check it fo sho!.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 9:03 am 
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Turbo EFI
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I doubt that the crank would work right now, after the bearing went "bye-bye."

:shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 9:16 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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gonna go outside and check the crank journal for "roundness". if it is out of round what are my options?
Is replacing a crank harder than finding another engine?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 9:21 am 
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kenicb,

Some thoughts........

Well loosing the oil plug is worse than my situation when the my new oil filter collapsed. #1 and #2 cylinder bearings were the ones that went. They just gauled from the heat and lack of oil then started knocking. I run synthetic with may have helped a little.

I had the crank reground .010 under, polished and balanced, the rods resized, balanced and shot peened. At high rpm it is as smooth as silk.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 9:38 am 
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Oops...you'll want to pull that distributor back out. It has race-only advance curves totally unsuitable for use on the street. The mechanical advance is only very lightly sprung, so it dumps in all the advance right off idle. Result is a lot of ping/knock unless you retard the initial timing so much that starting, driveability, and economy all suffer badly. This distributor can be recurved for street suitability, but a stock production electronic distributor is a lot closer to optimal than this one is.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 5:04 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Quote:
you'll want to pull that distributor back out. It has race-only advance curves totally unsuitable for use on the street.
well that sucks. I'll put the old one back in. Anyone wanna buy a new mopar performance distributor and electronic ignition set up?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 5:12 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Quote:
I had the crank reground .010 under, polished and balanced, the rods resized, balanced and shot peened. At high rpm it is as smooth as silk.
# 6 journal was somewhere around .003 and .004 off round. Kind of a difficult measurement to get with the calibrator. suffice to say it was more than .001 so i pulled the crank. what should the machine shop charge me to reground?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:34 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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send me a PM on that ignition. It might be easier to find an engine. The only crank I know of locally is a cast unit. Maybe Vatozone has a deal on a crank and kit.

Come to think of it there is a guy between White Bluff and Ashland City that is pretty much Mopar. He does it at home. He bought Music City Rod Shop's equipment when they went out of business.

Also I know a guy in Murfreesboro that might have a slant short block. I bought the head of that motor.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 9:10 pm 
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F'heaven's sake, why are we talking about buying a replacement crank, especially one that's been ruined by the jokers at Autozone???

There is nothing special about a Slant-6 crank that would throw a machine shop for a loop. Tell them to grind and polish to the largest dimension that'll bring all the journals back in round and for which matching replacement bearings can be provided (you have to use bearing inserts that are sized for the crank journals' newly-ground diameters). Think that's 0.010", but I could be wrong. Might as well have 'em chamfer the oil holes and brush-clean the oil passages while they're at it. But if you (and they) are sure that only just one journal is out of round, and the others are definitely round, smooth, and clean and suitable for use with standard bearings, then it's okeh to regrind just the journal(s) that need it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 5:36 am 
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Turbo EFI
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I don't get it Dan. How did the Azone guys make the plug fall out?

Is there another thread about a crappy Azone crank?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick


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