a diagram should be amongst this lot.
click here
regards,Rod
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| losing spark after letting go of key https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34138 |
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| Author: | slantsixbob [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 12:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | losing spark after letting go of key |
hope this is the right section. well we have been doing some further inspection on my valiant to find out that it isn't dead. we just have an issue somewhere causing it to loose spark once we quit cranking it over. i have replaced the ballast resistor, tried replacing the electronic ignition module and it didn't seem to fix our problem. what happens is that we crank, you can here it sound like it wants to start but once it gets close and we let the key go it just stops. its got good plugs/wires. pretty recent on the coil replacement as well. any thoughts? *edit* i forgot that me and thor jumped the wire that goes to the coil from the ballast and jumped it directly to the battery and it still didnt start. i believe that was how we did it. it might not be 100% correct so if it sounds funny its just because i remembered it wrong. |
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| Author: | 65Dodge100 [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
| Author: | dakight [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 2:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Check the ballast resistor. The ignition switch bypasses the ballast during cranking then when released, routes power through the ballast. An open ballast resistor will produce the symptoms you describe. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Check the OP; he's already replaced the ballast resistor. |
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| Author: | slantsixbob [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 5:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
thanks for ideas im still trying to figure this out. any more help would be appreciated. |
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| Author: | 65Dodge100 [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 6:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Have you checked the timing/timing chain? Get #1 piston on TDC, compression stoke, and see if the distributor rotor is still pointed at #1. Then rotate the crankshaft backward, by hand, and see how many degrees it turns before the rotor turns. Do you have points? Are they clean and adjusted? |
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| Author: | slantsixbob [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
new timing chain set and is set properly, timing is set good as well. i have electronic ignition. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Was the car running before? or is it a brand new rebuild....? Some more ideas...... Check the voltage at the coil when you turn the key to start. You should see at least 6 volts if not more. I see 10 volts on mine at and idle and 12 volts in start mode but, that is using the MSD resistor that comes with their Blaster coil. If you got good voltage, maybe the coil is dead. Swap it out. |
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| Author: | slantsixbob [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yes the car was running before. the carburetor flooded out(float sank) and killed it. it would not re start afterward and i had to go so it kind of sat for awhile. i will give replacing the coil a shot its worth it. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm voting with 65Dodge100: Check the ignition switch and the wiring between it and the ballast resistor, including the connections at the firewall. |
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| Author: | slantsixbob [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
when i check the fire wall connections what am i looking for? just 12 volts? im am un sure. but i will check the ignition switch and the wiring between it. any sites around that have a wiring diagram for my 72 valiant? |
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| Author: | walpolla [ Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
a diagram should be amongst this lot. click here regards,Rod
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| Author: | slantsixbob [ Sat Mar 07, 2009 12:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
much thanks wal 
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| Author: | 65Dodge100 [ Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: yes the car was running before. the carburetor flooded out(float sank) and killed it. it would not re start afterward
Wet plugs and washed out cylinders might cause this also.Danny |
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| Author: | rock [ Sat Mar 07, 2009 4:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | It's time to do this.... |
Funny electric problems respond best to a logical analysis. A logical analyis can't happen without knowing what you have. Knowing what you have requires the slow process of drawing your own sketch of wires from the back of the switch, through the firewall, to their endpoints. The sketch is needed because even published diagrams may not match what you have in place now. You don't HAVE to read voltage, continuity is fine too and alets you think without wondering what voltage readings mean. With continuity ou know for sure you have power or not and that is your condition now. I would start withtesting the switch itself. Just drop it from the dash, unplug it from the connector on its back, put your VOM probes between the IGN and ST terminals on the back of the switch and operate the switch with the key. See if the switch is transferring internally or not from ST to IGN. If the switch is working check the wires that got to those terminals, and so on. It takes a morning but will let you be sure whether you are chasing switch and wire problems, or not. rock '64d100 |
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